L-ascorbic Acid vs Vitamin C Ester

Vitamin C has been well known in the skin care world for decades as an anti aging miracle. You may be surprised to find out not all Vitamin C is created equally and some forms actually do more harm than good.

To understand why we use Vitamin C in anti aging skin care, we must understand how skin ages in the first place. Free radicals are to blame, unfortunately. These are little molecules that are in need of some company. Most of these molecules come from oxygen molecules that lose an electron due to toxins, sun exposure, cigarette smoke and even basic functions such as digestion or circulation.

Free radicals are simply looking for another molecule to steal an electron from. If a collagen molecule is attacked, it results in discolored skin that loses its elasticity. Our body’s natural defense is to create antioxidants that provide an electron to stabilize the free radicals. Our bodies can only produce so many antioxidants. We must combat free radicals by supplementing with certain vitamins and protecting ourselves from extrinsic factors.

Vitamin C can reverse the signs of aging if used in the correct form. Vitamin C as an antioxidant is powerful in many ways. It strengthens the immune system by creating stronger white blood cells. It’s essential to the nervous system and helps give us energy. It also helps produce collagen- the substance that gives plump, elastic skin.

When looking for the right form of Vitamin C, you must consider its solubility- whether it is fat or water soluble. L-ascorbic acid is Vitamin C in its purest form. It’s quite acidic and can cause skin irritation. Not to mention, it’s quite unstable and will oxidize fairly quickly. The biggest issue is L-ascorbic acid is water soluble, meaning it cannot penetrate the fatty outer layer of a cell. This layer- the cell plasma membrane- is where free radicals attack a cell. So what’s the solution?

Vitamin C ester is L-ascorbic acid combined with a fatty acid derived from palm oil. The chemical reaction created from the mixture is called an ester bond. The formula is nonirritating and has a balanced pH for the skin. It keeps on a shelf for much longer, that’s for sure. The most notable difference between Vitamin C ester and L-ascorbic acid is the addition of palmitic acid makes the ester fat soluble. This makes it easier for skin to absorb and it can penetrate the cell plasma membrane. This allows maximum protection against free radicals.

The fountain of youth may not have been discovered yet, but science has proven free radicals accelerate the process. Be sure to look for the different forms of Vitamin C in your skin care products and wear your sunscreen every day!