Exploring Northern Ireland
From epic scenery to lively pubs, tasty food, friendly locals and a fascinating history, exploring Northern Ireland should definitely make your travel to-do list.
Introduction | Belfast | The North Coast
Exploring Northern Ireland: An Introduction
We ended up exploring Northern Ireland on a whim. We were traveling in southwestern Scotland and, while enjoying a cold beer, happened to look across the Irish Sea. Quickly realizing that the Emerald Isle was just a ferry ride away, we decided it was a ferry ride worth taking.
Once there, we were certainly pleased with our decision to ditch the grumpasaurus Scotland scene for a few days. Not only is Northern Ireland ridiculously beautiful (okay fine, so is Scotland), but you also just can’t beat that good Irish humor. Whereas in Scotland we were asked to quiet down at an Edinburgh bar, we simply couldn’t be loud enough while exploring Northern Ireland.
From epic scenery to lively pubs, tasty food, friendly locals and a fascinating history, exploring Northern Ireland should definitely make your travel to-do list.
Exploring Northern Ireland: Belfast
Moving
There are two ferries, both departing from Cairnryan, Scotland and arriving in either Belfast, Northern Ireland (Stena Line) or Larne, Northern Ireland (P&O). We took Stena Line, as we wanted to land in Belfast — Larne is about thirty minutes outside of the city. The ferries are large, with food for sale, duty-free shopping and are able to take cars. The passenger fare is around 24 GBP one way and the trip takes about two hours.
Upon arrival in Belfast port, we grabbed the public bus into town, which was cheap and easy.
Once in downtown Belfast, we pretty much walked everywhere. We used Uber a couple times, but expect longer wait times (this ain’t Manhattan).
When ready to the countryside, we picked up a rental car at Belfast City Airport (note: this is not the international airport, which is farther outside the city).
Doing
In classic Social Nomads fashion, we did more eating and drinking than doing in Belfast. That being said, we did attempt a few daytime activities.
The Titanic Museum is the big “to do” in Belfast, as the infamous cruise liner was built here in the early 1900s. We’re not always big on museums, but we did enjoy a couple hours strolling through this one. The entrance fee is around 18 GBP and we’d recommend booking your ticket in advance.
If you’re looking to get just outside the city, head up to Belfast Castle, which offers pretty gardens, fantastic views and walking trails.
Eating
We grabbed lunch at Holohan’s Pantry, which was downright delish and perhaps our favorite meal of the trip. A great option for either lunch or dinner, Holohan’s has fantastic and quality Irish food. We especially liked the boxty (Irish potato cake), as well as a crisp cider on the outdoor patio… so much so that we missed our ferry back to Scotland #oopsies #classic
For another traditional Irish spot, check out Darcy’s, which offers tasty food at good prices and an enjoyable atmosphere.
If you’re looking for a classy seafood establishment, head to Mourne Seafood Bar, which serves up oysters, mussels, fish and other delectable aquatic eats. Warning: make a reservation if you really want to grab dinner here, as this place is small and fills up fast.
We had a surprisingly tasty dinner at The Dirty Onion (not really Irish, per se), which is mentioned below as a trendy downtown drinking spot.
For a quick and cheap bite, Manny’s Fish and Chips will do just fine. There’s no shame in some mid-bar-crawl grub! Unless it’s at McDonalds on Royal and Castle, which is open 24/7 and where there is plenty of shame.
Drinking
Note: unless specifically noted, we don’t recommend eating at any of the below! Drinking is drinking, folks… and Belfast has some great options for that. And what would exploring Northern Ireland be without some drinking??
Although pretty touristy, we just had to stop by the Crown Liquor Saloon for a wee pint. Dating back to the late 1800s, the Crown has great historical vibes and is a solid spot to start a boozy Belfast evening. If it’s packed, drink a Guinness at the bar and then move on… if you manage to grab a booth, which are old school private (you’ll see what we mean), linger for a few.
Let the historical vibes roll on as you head over to Kelly’s Cellars, which claims to be Belfast’s “oldest traditional Irish pub.” Although we can’t confirm that claim, we can say that this place feels old AF. The inside is a cross between a dive bar from the 1700s and something you’d find in the Shire. We also enjoyed the outdoor seating on a beautiful summer evening.
Since it seems like all Belfast bars want to make some sort of old claim, we’ll move on to The Dirty Onion (“based in one of Belfast’s oldest buildings” blah blah). However, this bar doesn’t embrace the historical vibes as others might, but rather tactfully clashes with them through a trendy modern fusion twist. Popular with the Belfast young professional crowd, The Dirty Onion offers tasty drinks, live music, and solid food options.
Whether it was the vibrant ambiance, live music, friendly locals, historically eclectic interior or the ten beers we’d had before arriving (or all of the above?), we straight up loved The Duke of York. If we could only go to one bar in Belfast, we’d pick this one.
Sleeping
We booked at the last minute in summer, so accommodation inventory was limited. We ended up at this Airbnb, which was a bit rough around the edges (kinda like Belfast itself). It was fine for a quick trip, but def didn’t enhance our overall experience as some lodging options might.
If you’re looking to ball out historical style, head over to the Europa Hotel, which has hosted a bunch of famous people (so we’re told). The Europa also has the dubious distinction of the “most bombed hotel in Europe” due to various, well, bombings during the Troubles (a period of conflict in Northern Ireland during the late 1900s).
For a solid B&B type experience, try the Avenue Guest House.
If you’re looking for that classic hostel scene (but not a total shithole), check out Vagabonds or Global Village.
Exploring Northern Ireland: The North Coast
Intro
The north coast is all about epic views and quaint AF vibes. Fortunately for us, we love both of those things. We focused our trip around the three towns of Bushmills, Ballintoy, and Ballycastle, each offering their own nuance on the exploring Northern Ireland experience.
Moving
We’re strong believers in car rentals and exploring Northern Ireland was no exception. We picked up some wheels in Belfast and hit the road (left side). The scenery is gorgeous and the freedom of a rental car is much appreciated.
Doing
Giant’s Causeway
The coastline of Northern Ireland is stunning and this is one of the best spots to soak it all in. The Giant’s Causeway area is comprised of a massive beach/coastline with towering cliffs above and, at the center, the actual causeway, which is a unique rock structure stretching into the ocean. According to legend, the causeway was built to facilitate a badass battle between an Irish and Scottish giant. There’s more to it than that, but better to hear the tale from someone with an accent.
Exploring Northern Ireland in the summer is fantastic, as the sun sets very late. Taking advantage of this, we arrived at the Giant’s Causeway in the evening and parked in the visitor’s center lot. Since it was after hours, we avoided the annoyingly large daytime parking fee, which was great. We also had the place almost entirely to ourselves, which seemed amazing considering we were there during such a popular season.
From the entrance, we turned right and headed up the cliff trail, which offers epic views of the countryside behind and ocean below. After about thirty minutes of casual walking (and stopping), we turned down the narrow path and descended to sea level. From here we walked over to the causeway, which is naturally made up of thousands of interlocking basalt (basically lava rock) columns. After the causeway, we completed the loup by strolling up to the visitor’s center along the seaside path, all the while watching the sunset over the ocean.
In sum: we went in the evening and enjoyed 1) free parking 2) no crowds 3) epic sunset. Enough said.
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge
Since we went in the daytime, this unique coastline attraction was swarming with tourists. That being said, it was still pretty cool. The adult entrance fee is 8 GBP and they’re strict about everyone paying; parking is free and there’s plenty of it. Local salmon fisherman have been crossing a bridge from the mainland to the tiny island of Carrick-a-Rede for hundreds of years. The current bridge was built in 2008 and is more structurally sound than its predecessors.
From the entrance, we weaved along the path high above the ocean. After about twenty minutes we arrived at the bridge, which connects the mainland to the tiny island. Crossing the bridge provides a bit of a rush, as it’s quite high and sways in the wind. Once on the other side, there’s enough room to stroll around. The cool thing about the entire experience is that you’re never actually at sea level, but always high above it on steep cliffs.
Bushmills
Famous for Irish whiskey and its close proximity to the Giant’s Causeway, Bushmills is a solid (although touristy) option along the Northern Ireland coast. Surprisingly, we don’t object to famous Irish whiskey while exploring Northern Ireland.
Eating & Drinking
If you’re looking for a dining experience more on the classy side, check out Tartine Restaurant or The Bushmills Innrestaurant. For something a bit less pricey, and with tasty fish and chips, head to The Flash in the Pan. Out of town in the direction of the Giant’s Causeway, Maegden is another popular cheap eats spot.
If you’re into whiskey (or even if you’re not), experience the Bushmills Distillery. For non-distillery drinking in Bushmills, the Bush House offers that classic pub feel, which we always love.
Sleeping
The Bushmills Inn is the quaint AF gem here, although it definitely comes at a price. For something more affordable, try Finn MacCool’s Public House and Guest Inn (mid-range) or Bushmill’s Youth Hostel (cheap).
Ballintoy
We arrived in the blink-and-you-missed-it small town of Ballintoy completely by chance. After our evening adventure at Giant’s Causeway, we went in search of lodging, as we hadn’t made plans in advance. With many places already full, we finally found something in Ballintoy. Starving, we grabbed dinner and drinks at the local pub, which turned into one hell of a hazy night alongside our new best Northern Ireland friends. Let’s just say that there was an (un)healthy amount of whiskey involved.
Eating & Drinking
Ballintoy doesn’t have much to offer, so this will be short and sweet. We ate at Carrick-a-Rede Bar and Restaurant. In the evening, this place is truly a local spot, complete with a frumpy bartender/server (who warms up over time) and a wide range of drunk regulars. We stayed late into the night and, well after the bartender had locked the door to new customers, plenty of locals seemed to make their way in with a loud knock. If you’re looking for a local dinner and drinks experience, come here.
The Fullerton Arms is the other main option in Ballintoy and juxtaposes nicely with Carrick-a-Rede Bar, with the former being the tourist spot and the latter the local one. Although aesthetically nice, we found the Fullerton to be a bit tacky, especially with the Game of Thrones theme.
If you’re just passing through and in search of a popular lunch spot, check out the Red Door Tea Room, which is just off the main road.
Sleeping
As with eating and drinking, Ballintoy doesn’t have a ton of lodging options. We crashed at Sheep Island View Hostel, which offers inexpensive ensuite rooms with bunks. Although not the nicest place we stayed, it was more than sufficient for a quick night.
The Fullerton Arms also offers lodging and it’s (unsurprisingly) nicer than the hostel (and more expensive). You get what you pay for!
Ballycastle
Considered the “big city” of the north coast, Ballycastle offers more in terms of restaurants and hotels. It’s a nice enough large town with fairly quant (although not AF) vibes and a pleasant harbor. From an eating and drinking perspective, it’s one of those don’t overthink it moments. If you see something that looks to your liking, just jump in and enjoy.
Eating & Drinking
We grabbed lunch at Finn Patrick’s (formerly Diamond Bar), which has tasty food, large portions, and reasonable prices. We especially liked the mussels. If you’re looking for some quick and cheap grub (fish and chips) with outdoor seating, head over to Morton’s. For something a bit more classy, although still reasonably priced, try Central Wine Bar.
Sleeping
The Old Manse B&B and Castle Hostel are both solid and affordable options in downtown Ballycastle. If you need that traditional hotel option and are willing to pay a bit more, check out the Marine Hotel on the water.