Die perfekte Welle (The perfect Wave)

Photo by Jeremy Bishop on Unsplash

All the surfers in Oahu knew him as “The Lone Surfer”. He’d been there for decades, the first to get in the sea in the morning, the last one to leave at dusk. This seems quite the ideal life for a surfer, except that nobody ever saw him ride a wave.

He just stood there, sitting on his board, his look lost in the blue waves. He smiled and waved when the other surfers greeted him, but he never…