The Space Above and Below
Lake Powell is one of the most beautiful environmental blunders you’ll ever see. It’s not actually a lake at all — it’s a reservoir, the second largest in the United States. Lately it’s been drawing a lot of attention since it’s only about 33% full, a situation that alarms those concerned about the water level while those who call it “Lake Foul” are reveling in its seemingly imminent demise.
The receding water was one of the reasons I decided it was time for a visit to Lake Powell in April of this year. I wanted to see it before the opportunity was gone. The other reason was that everyone in my house was increasingly restless after a year of staying at home. Under normal circumstances, my husband, son, and I make regular expeditions to explore the desert beyond Las Vegas. The house seemed to be growing smaller even though we’re fortunate enough to live in a place with plenty of space. We were all feeling the need for an escape.
Lake Powell had intrigued me for years. I’d studied pictures of its red sandstone buttes and mesas rising in an otherworldly fashion out of the reservoir’s waters, the high walls of what had once been majestic canyons still visible, the maze-like tributaries and side canyons with colorful rock formations jutting out of the water in all manner of shapes. With the waters retreating, many formerly submerged sites had emerged from the waters.
