Marveling at the Height of Devils Tower National Monument

Todd Smith
8 min readJun 13, 2022

--

A large column of rock rises 1,267 feet above the nearby Belle Fourche River to form Devils Tower National Monument.

We all agreed that this was one of our favorite stops on our trip after going to Badlands National Park, Mount Rushmore, and Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

Geology of Devils Tower National Monument

About 50 million years ago molten magma forced its way into the sedimentary rock above and cooled underground. As it cooled it contracted and fractured into columns.

Over millions of years, erosion of sedimentary rock exposed Devil’s Tower.

Devils Tower in Native American Culture

Native Americans have different tales of the formation of the tower which they call Bear Lodge.

Kiowa Legend

Eight children were there at play, seven sisters and their brother. Suddenly the boy was struck dumb; he trembled and began to run upon his hands and feet.

His fingers became claws, and his body was covered with fur. Directly there was a bear where the boy had been. The sisters were terrified; they ran, and the bear after them.

They came to the stump of a great tree, and the tree spoke to them. It bade them climb upon it, and as they did so it began to rise into the air.

The bear came to kill them, but they were just beyond its reach. It reared against the tree and scored the bark all around with its claws. The seven sisters were borne into the sky and the stars of the Pleiades.

Heading into Devils Tower National Monument

We entered the park on South Dakota Highway 110 and stopped at the entrance station to pay the fee. Near the station are Devils Tower Trading Post, Post Office, and KOA campground.

Next, we crossed the Belle Fourche River and went by a prairie dog town.

We followed the road around to a large sprawling parking lot among evergreens.

First, we headed up to the Visitor Center and gift shop that has a nearby restroom before hiking here.

Tower Trail

We decided to do the 1.3-mile paved Tower Trail that starts across from the parking area.

It stretches around the tower with moderate elevation change and offers close-up views of the tower and boulder field, as well as sweeping views of the surrounding landscape. It can get crowded but we were here early in the summer season and not on a weekend.

Starting the Hike

We headed towards where the trail goes into a loop.

We noticed many prayer clothes left by Native Americans here. You are not supposed to touch the flags which are left for the spirits. Devils Tower is sacred to Native Americans.

Climbers Walking By

We stopped for a moment to take photos in front of the boulder field.

A young man and woman headed up between the boulders with climbing gear.

Then we looked high up into the crevices and noticed tiny people climbing up the sheer rock face.

We saw a notice along the walk stressing the importance of climbers needing to register so the park rangers know who is up there.

Tower Forming

Next, we came by an information board about the formation of the tower and how the tower was once buried, and over millions of years rivers have washed away the softer sedimentary rock to reveal the tower.

Valley View

We came to a lookout above the valley below. Land once filled with bison and then later cattle ranches operated here according to a sign.

Going Right Around the Tower

A sign explained that at one time a 350-foot ladder went towards an area two-thirds of the way up called “The Meadows.” From here you could scramble to the top. You can see the remains of a ladder, but I was unable to locate it.

Along here we came across some mule deer that were eating very close to the trail. Probably used to people taking this trail.

A sign along the path explained the symmetrical columns of the tower with the tallest at over 600 feet and the widest at 10 to 20 feet in the world. Columns have come down along this side of the trail and some are 4,5,6, or 7 sided.

My son enjoyed clambering up nearby boulders along the trail. I kept a close eye on him in his adventures here.

Back Behind Devils Tower

We made it to the halfway point designated by a sign.

Another sign talked about listening to nature on this side. Fewer people made it quieter here and you could hear the sounds of the many birds around or the wind whistling through the pines along with the chatter of the squirrels and chipmunks.

This area is heavily forested and the tower stood high above it.

Left Side of The Tower

This side had a large boulder field and again we looked up to see climbers heading back down as we were heading to late afternoon.

Final Thoughts

This was one of my favorite hikes on our trip. It was easy to do and allowed us different views of the tower. I liked that it was a loop, so we didn’t have to re-walk any of it. The trail also allowed us to be away from the crowds and spend some time with nature at the site. Although, later in the summer it can be busy.

OTHER HIKES

Joyner Ridge Trail

Along the north boundary of the park is a 1.5-mile (2.4 km) loop trail that follows Joyner Ridge and dips down into the draw below. Accessed from a dirt road at the Joyner Ridge trailhead parking area or Red Beds Trail via a .6-mile connector trail.

Red Beds Trail

This 2.8-mile (4.5 km) loop will offer great views of the Tower and the surrounding Belle Fourche River valley. Reached from the visitor center parking lot or all other trails. Parts of it can be steep.

South Side Trail

This trail begins from the amphitheater and proceeds through the prairie dog town 0.6 miles (1 km) to link into Red Beds Trail. South Side Trail can be combined with Red Beds to hike to the visitor center from the picnic area parking lot. Entered from the picnic area parking lot or Red Beds Trail.

Valley View Trail

Beginning from the amphitheater, this .6-mile trail winds through prairie dog town and offers picturesque views of the Belle Fourche River. With little change in elevation, this is a gentle trail for stretching your legs. It also begins at the picnic area parking lot or Red Beds Trail.

DETAILS

The park includes camping, restrooms, and drinking water.

Drive: From St. Louis take Interstate 70 west to downtown Kansas City then head north on Interstate 29 to Sioux Falls South Dakota then take Exit 396 for Interstate 90 westbound and then take exit 185 near Spearfish, Wyoming, going west. Next, make a right onto Wyoming Highway 24 and look for the entrance to the national park on the left.

Hours: Open 24 hours

Admission: Vehicle Entrance Fee $25

Address: 340 WY-110, Devils Tower, WY 82714

SPEARFISH, SOUTH DAKOTA

After seeing Devils Tower we headed to Spearfish South Dakota to stay the night at the Best Western Black Hills Lodge.

EARLIER SITES ALONG THE TRIP

Exploring Medicine Rocks State Park in Montana

Jutting up to the sky in the rolling grass and pine-covered hills of southeastern Montana are the pockmarked knobs of Medicine Rocks State Park.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park: Painted Canyon

Panoramic canyon views and hiking trails are found at Theodore Roosevelt National Park’s Painted Canyon Visitor’s Center.

Seeing Mount Rushmore and Exploring the Black Hills

Staring up at the iconic presidents carved in stone was a day at Mount Rushmore National Memorial about 30 minutes south of Rapid City, S.D. Mount Rushmore National Memorial features 60-foot sculptures of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln. Designed by sculptor Gutzon Borglum, the memorial covers 1.278.45 acres and sits 5,725 feet above sea level.

Badlands National Park: East Side Hiking

In Badlands National Park you can see unusual rock formations and canyons with vibrant colors and plenty of hiking trails to explore.

Badlands National Park: West Side Hiking

At Badlands National Park we took short hikes along the Loop Road checking out fossils and going up into the Badlands along a trail. We also stopped at the many overlooks for different views of the canyons and spires we drove by.

Discovering the Sioux Falls Waterfall

Seeing a waterfall at sunset in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, was part of our first night on our summer trip to the Dakotas and Mount Rushmore.

Driving to the Highest Point in Iowa

Surrounded by cornfields on a windswept hill stands Hawkeye Point, the highest natural point in Iowa at 1,670 feet.

--

--