Tuscany’s Il Poggione Winery Fuses Innovation and Tradition
The aspect of tradition is so axiomatic in Italian winemaking, that for some in the industry, it might produce a bit of obstinacy. This can be true for both government authorities loath to tweaking regulations, or insistent and stubborn vintners who cling to a hard line.
Alessandro Bindocci, winemaker for the famed Montalcino-based Il Poggione, is not bound by intractability. To be sure, he’s reverent toward the example of his winemaking father, Fabrizio, and Tenuta Il Poggione’s historic mastery of Brunello — the pinnacle of wine in Tuscany. But Bindocci is always on the cutting edge of both oenology and technology — and not merely because his trusty smartphone monitors the minutiae of the winemaking process. His blog, Montalcino Report, is unique to the region. He has also introduced critical winemaking techniques that have dovetailed nicely with the bevy of traditional practices.

“When we started making white wines, it was important that we use cold fermentation — fermenting for 25 days at 8C degrees,” says Bindocci. “And, my father and I made the decision in 2004 to introduce submerged-cap fermentation for red wines. This is a practice in Piedmont, but not in Montalcino.”
Climate factors have also drawn out the inventiveness and spirit of the Bindoccis. They have long argued that irrigation will be necessary in future vintages, with prolonged heat droughts more likely. Montalcino’s bureaucracy has, until recently, been reluctant to change the regulations involving irrigation. But, in 2014, emergency irrigation was eventually allowed.
“It took some time and a lot of talking to the officials,” says Bindocci, “but obtaining the (permission for) irrigation was a great achievement.”
More inventive oenology is on display in how the soil and roots around the vines are worked and fertilized, especially right after harvest. Pellets of organic fertilizer are buried 40 centimeters below the surface with a subsoil tiller. The shallower roots are cut from the topsoil.
“We want to facilitate the roots’ ability to grow deeper into the ground instead of around the surface,” says Bindocci. “We’ve have always used natural bi-products to fertilize, but the pellets make it easier, because you can get them deeper into the ground.”
Being true to one’s roots is a maxim for many families and businesses. It therefore made sense that Il Poggione and Lake Bluff-based Terlato Wines International — who have partnered for more than three decades — would form a joint collaboration: Mazzoni. This line of wines — with all fruit sourced from Tuscany — combines Il Poggione’s longtime expertise with Tuscan Sangiovese and Vermentino, with the Terlatos’ historic association with Pinot Grigio, and their production of Merlot and Chardonnay in California.
“Our goal with Mazzoni is to be loyal to the authentic Tuscan style,” says Bindocci. “Mazzoni wines are great first step to understanding our traditions. Vermentino from Tuscany has beautiful mineral characteristics, but it can be lean. We decided to blend with unoaked Chardonnay (25 percent of the blend) because it adds structure without covering the minerality. And, Mazzoni Pinot Grigio, being from a warmer area, adds something unique to the market: intense color, versatility to hold up with many foods. But the freshness remains intact; its acidity is still notable because of the cold fermentation.”
As both the Mazzoni and Il Poggione wines continue their journeys after the harvest, Bindocci stresses basic tenets, the things that winemakers — regardless of vintage or region — would be wise to remember.
“You have to work the soil,” he says, “and to be mindful of pruning and grape bunches. Really, you have to be a farmer more than anything.”
