Niche Nudges Culinary Needle in Chicago Suburbs

Thomas Caestecker
Jul 25, 2017 · 4 min read

Developing an astutely creative, inspired food and beverage program in America’s Heartland can be daunting task. A changing up of the tried-and-true triumvirate of steak, potato and starchy green legumes can be anathema to some folks’ comfort zones. Chicago’s downtown and chic neighborhoods have many restaurants that have made a departure from such a mindset — although for some locals, charbroiled steer and a twice-baked tuber is still the dullard’s default.

However, back during the worst years of the recession, the city’s intrepid restaurateurs flouted economic austerity and opened their doors — despite their accountants’ dire warnings. And, they unveiled culinary creativity, from visceral-looking appetizers of still-in-the-bone marrow, to delicate, seasonal greens grown on downtown rooftops. Perhaps just as interesting, the fellow travelers with these delectable foods often were wines that didn’t originate in touristy Napa wine country.

Now, venture 30 miles west of Chicago to the picturesque (read: bucolic) suburb of Geneva, IL. The inhabitants are well aware of the eclectic options in the big city — and the sometimes horrendous commute to get there. Road-weary commuters have come to rely on Niche, which has all the ingredients of downtown’s Loop — minus the congestion and pretentious pricing. There, Wine Director Vince Balistreri, armed with an award-winning wine program, extends a downtown sensibility of nuance — but one that never condescends.

A member of the Court of Master Sommeliers, Balistreri started at Niche in 2007, fresh out of culinary school. He originally oversaw an all-domestic wine list, but in more recent years, has made it international.

Wine Director Vince Balistreri. (Photo: Susannah Freitag)

“We had great placements and allocations, and presented great wine dinners with [brands like] Plumpjack and Charles Smith,” Balistreri says. “And, we made the decision to go with a big list, because in this area of the suburbs, it’s what makes Niche stand out.”

It doesn’t hurt Niche that “standing out” often means that the five-mile radius around the restaurant is dotted (polluted?) with retail food chains that, even at the higher end, are known more for a colorless commercial jingle than a swirl from a seasoned saucier.

“Of course, we also have things on the menu, such as pork belly or frog legs — trendy things associated with downtown Chicago dining. But it’s our wine list that provides an extra enticement, not just for Geneva, but many other neighboring western suburbs.”

Balistreri likes to keep his by-the-glass options constantly rotating — he never re-orders the same brand/varietal for glass pours — and gets excited about adding more European wines to replace some domestic labels that have either languished or become staid in their style. At the very least, this approach assures that the wine list can be varied and nimble enough for nearly anything to work with the menu of Executive Chef Chris Ayukawa.

“Several years ago, I was a little naïve in selecting wines for the list; I just went from painstakingly tasting and the notes I took. But, we ended up with some wines that, while they worked phenomenally with a creative menu, could be intimidating.”

In a hospitality-driven business, completely jettisoning the tried-and-true brands of wines and familiar varietals can drive some business away. Eventually, Balistreri relented somewhat, and installed a few selections with a grudging nod to the label in addition to the juice. He still insists on tasting every prospective wine before it is added to the lineup — even if he’s pretty sure what the mass-produced juice will taste like, despite a sales rep’s enthusiasm.

“I like picking different varietals and getting people to try them. We still do a lot of experimentation — we’ve decided to feature a number of German Rieslings lately. But, just as with the food, we don’t want our wines to all be esoteric, because we’re not here to make people feel like we’re some snobby experts who talk down to people. I mean, there are still way too many people like that in our industry!”

“So, we’ll still make sure we have a full range of California Cabs, some maybe from the top-of-mind producers that are no strangers to the retail market,” he adds. “But with others, we’ll try to look for value from the satellite regions such as Lake County and Paso Robles. We have to be gracious hosts, of course: It’s our job to make people happy.”

Thomas Caestecker

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Purveyor of mind-blowing Mediterranean #wine and a staunch anti-statist... because superlative beverages and subpar bureaucracy don't mix.

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