A Rioja Reserva from Spain’s CVNE
Rioja is one of Spain’s great red wines and perhaps its most well-known; its main grape is Tempranillo and it makes extensive use of oak aging. Where France’s wine classification system is based on geographic location and Germany’s grape ripeness, Rioja’s classification system relies on the type and extent of ageing prior to release.
In practice, the underlying idea for each system is fundamentally the same; the best locations produce the ripest grapes which in turn can take the most winemaking.
For a Reserva, the wine must age for three years with a minimum of one year in barrels and six months in bottle
The main grapes of Rioja, and also the ones in this wine, are:
Tempranillo
- relatively neutral; often blended or oak-aged for additional flavour
- flavours of plum and strawberries.
Graciano
- low yielding grape with deep colour, strong aroma, ability to age
- thrives in warm, arid climates
Mazuelo
- aka Carignan
- high-yielding, late-ripening warm-climate grape
Cune Reserva 2019 (£17.19, Majestic, Ocado, Sainsburys, Waitrose, Wholefoods)
They say:
This elegant Cune Rioja Reserva comes from one of Rioja’s most historic and respected wineries, the Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España.
The first wine it produced took the name of the company’s initials, CVNE. However, a simple printing error confusing the V with a U, led to the creation of the iconic Cune brand. Founded in 1879 by two brothers, the winery is still run by the same family, now in its fifth generation, producing quality, artisanal and traditional varieties that grace tables in more than 90 countries.
The Cune Reserva features the hallmark fruits of Rioja red wines, complemented by warming spices such as vanilla and star anise. Its balance and complexity creates a versatile wine which works well with a Sunday roast, a summer barbecue, or simply as a cosy sip on a winter evening.
A wine with a female touch — Maria Larrea is technical director at C.V.N.E and Eva de Benito, winemaker at C.V.N.E.
I say:
14%
ruby-purple; restrained nose of plum, dark berry fruits, spice and menthol; red and black fruits, cherries, leather, cocoa cool mint and oaky-woody spices; fine-grained, well-integrated tannins; substantial, complex and dense.
Good.
Match with roasted red meats, such as char-grilled beef or a joint of lamb.
Dense and woody-spicy on first opening, the fruit becomes more apparent with extensive aeration. Benefits from decanting and will repay further cellaring.
