An Aligoté and a Malbec from Languedoc/Burgundy based Edouard Delaunay
Crisp White plus Big Red forms the basic building block of any food-and-wine matching arrangement. And it is for that reason, that I try to review wines in red/white pairings as much as possible
Certain combinations naturally spring to mind — such as white Burgundy followed by Bordeaux. But variations on this theme can work just as well.
These two wines follow that pattern, but mix things up a little: the white Burgundy is actually made from the region’s little-seen, “other” grape, Aligoté. The red is a grape of Bordeaux origin, Malbec, that thrives in warmer climates, most notably Cahors and Argentina. This example, however, is from Languedoc.
The winemaker
Laurent Delaunay, representing the fifth generation of a family of winemakers and negociants, is reappropriating his family’s history.
Though it had progressively been sinking into oblivion over the last several years, the House of Edouard Delaunay, an old structure with a rich and unique history, has always been closely connected to Burgundy wine trade and was considerably implicated in the epic intercontinental expansion it experienced throughout the entire 20th century.
Bought back in 2017 by Laurent Delaunay, the great grandson of the founder, it strives to regain its place within the inner circle of the great houses of Burgundy through the meticulous and precise vinification and ageing of exceptional wines from some of Burgundy’s finest terroirs.
Edouard Delaunay Bourgogne Aligoté, 2020
They say:
Long underestimated, the Aligoté grape is undergoing a revival thanks to the work of a few passionate winegrowers. It is important for the House of Edouard Delaunay to take part in this revival. Our Aligoté is a terroir wine, hailing from a plot of vines that are located just a few hundred metres from our winery.
I say:
13%
very pale straw; restrained nose of nettle, straw and honeysuckle; fresh, pure and supple with bruised orchard fruit, white stone fruits, mandarin peel and honeyed lemon barley sugar; saline and complex. Very elegant and adept.
Drinks nicely on first opening; can be cellared.
Very Good.
Match with sophisticated starters, such as pan-fried scallops or game terrine.
Abbotts & Delaunay ‘Les Fruits Sauvages’ Malbec 2021, Languedoc (£11.99 / £9.99 Mix Six, Majestic)
They say:
French Malbec is scarce outside of the South West and the Loire. But Languedoc experts Abbotts & Delaunay uncovered 30-year-old vines amongst their plots in the warm Hérault department.
Older vines produce fewer grapes, but they have much greater concentration and complexity. To balance the ripe flavour of these sun-soaked vines, grapes from the cooler Aude department are added to the blend.
The wine enjoys a relatively long maceration lasting between two to three weeks and is then vinified in concrete tanks before part of the blend is aged in oak for between six and nine months, while the remainder is aged in stainless steel.
I say:
13%
bright translucent ruby-purple; dark plums and black fruit, florality and spice; fruit-forward with fresh, juicy cassis, black cherries and plum, oaky spice and very fine, slightly grippy tannins; concentrated with moderate extraction.
Thoroughly pleasant+
Drinks nicely on first opening; improves with aeration and can be cellared.
Match with strongly-flavoured foods such as char-grilled pepper steak, pepperoni pizza or charcuterie.
