Marseille is full of surprises and Petrina Darrah knows where to find them in this often overlooked yet stunning French city. From areas full of incredible street art to the superb Palais Longchamp, read on for the top must-see places in Marseille.
A city of secrets, the top must-see places in Marseille aren’t always as obvious as for other cities. There’s the eclectic street art of Cours Julien with its veiled messages in the bright murals. There are the labyrinthine streets of the Le Panier neighbourhood, history hiding around every corner. There are the many calanques (or secluded inlets) tucked away in the national park, accessible only to those with a boat or a very good map. Then there are all the secrets only the locals know; where to find the cheapest wine, the best tapas, and the freshest bouillabaisse.
But the biggest secret of all is that this almost forgotten-about city is, in fact, the most exciting and vibrant town in France. Forget what you’ve heard about Marseille being a dangerous and dirty port city: this Mediterranean metropolis throws together dazzling blue sea, laid-back lifestyle, delectable cuisine and a thriving nightlife in an intoxicating combination.
Ready to start planning your weekend itinerary? Here are the top eight must-see places in Marseille.
THE CALANQUES NATIONAL PARK
Anyone who claims Marseille is ugly hasn’t been to the Calanques National Park. Low limestone hills roll towards the Mediterranean, cloaked in wild olive trees with the scent of pine and lavender in the air. Rocky paths wind their way through the national park to the calanques, steep-walled inlets carved into the sea cliffs along the coast between Marseille and Cassis. These hidden bays lie less than 10 miles from the centre of Marseille, and are easily accessed by public bus followed by a short walk. The water in the fjord-like inlets is achingly blue, calm and inviting and will probably become your new favourite place in France.
MARCHE DE NOAILLES
Exploring the narrow, cobbled streets of the Marche de Noailles streets is like being transported to a different continent. A little slice of northern Africa carved out by immigrants, the Noailles market is overflowing with all sorts of goodies, from stacked boxes of fresh produce to colourful piles of spice. Amidst the hustle and bustle you can find loops of dried figs, hot and saucy mahjoubas (a kind of Algerian crepe), and even whole roast chickens spinning on rotisseries. It’s noisy, chaotic, and you have to watch where you step, but the colours and flavours of this market can’t be missed. For optimal viewing of the colourful area, head off on a street art walking tour to explore this and other noted neighbourhoods.
LE PANIER
Le Panier (literally meaning ‘the basket’) is the neighbourhood that proves Marseille has a softer side. The quaint streets are lined with flowerpots and dozing cats, while dainty cafes are interspersed with antique shops and art galleries. As the oldest neighbourhood in Marseille, history still hangs in the air in Le Panier, tangled up with the lines of washing that crisscross between the tall buildings. This is where the Greeks first settled in 600 BC, and since then it has been home to wealthy traders, criminals, prostitutes and World War Two Resistance fighters, although it’s hard to believe that now. A stroll through the quietly vibrant Le Panier is like taking a cross-section of Marseille’s history and is a must-do for every visitor. Or better still, make the historical area your base at the luxurious Intercontinental Hotel Dieu, or if that’s a bit out of your price range, the cool Maison Boa should suit you down to the ground.
VIEUX PORT
The heart of Marseille, the Vieux-Port dates back 2000 years. This is where locals and tourists alike come to stroll, sip rosé, eat bouillabaisse, buy fish, shop for soap and generally live their lives. A natural harbour, it was the centre of maritime activity in Marseille for centuries and today still holds fast as the centre of social and cultural activities in the city. With fortresses standing on either side of the entrance to the port, the Vieux Port is gorgeous. Facing west, the best time to enjoy the views across the port is at sunset, when the sky and surrounding buildings are painted in shades of warm red. Or if you’d prefer to see a little more of the area, hop on an electric bike tour, with the starting point at Vieux-Port itself.
CHATEAU D’IF
The Frioul Archipelago is a cluster of small islands just off the coast. The smallest island in the group is home to a fortress prison famous for being one of the settings for The Count of Monte Cristo. Built in the 1500s, the chateau has thick, imposing walls, with barred windows and three gun towers. The fortifications, combined with dangerous off-shore currents, made Chateau d’If a fearsome prison. You can catch a boat from the Vieux-Port out to the island and explore the fortress that inspired adventure stories or head out to Chateau d’If on a private tour with Viator. The graffiti scratched into the stone walls by former inmates are enough to give you shivers.
NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE
Sitting proudly on Marseille’s highest point, Notre Dame de la Garde is a beloved symbol of the city. An opulent basilica built in the 1800s, “La Bonne Mere” (the good mother) of Marseille is visually decadent, with gilded statues, bands of coloured marble, intricate mosaics and maritime murals depicting the safe passage of sailing vessels. Then there is the view: if you make the hike up to Notre Dame, you are rewarded with sweeping panoramas of Marseille.
COURS JULIEN
Photo Credit: marseille-tourisme.com
Marseille’s bohemian vibe is concentrated most strongly in a sunny square called Cours Julien. A long rectangle lined by trees and restaurants, tables and chairs crowd the square’s pavement, while children and dogs sprint around the open spaces in between. If you like people watching, look out for dreadlocked musicians strumming their guitars, and theatre students sipping espresso and looking hip. The narrow streets leading off the square are all brightly painted, with graffiti murals blending into each other, overlapping to take up every inch of available space. Knick-knack shops, bookshops and tattoo parlours sit shoulder to shoulder with ethnic restaurants and atmospheric bars: Cours Ju, as it’s known to locals, has plenty of things to do during the day and night. Try the restaurant Le Cabanon du Cours for top-notch French cuisine and a nicely chilled atmosphere.
PALAIS LONGCHAMP
Conceived as a spectacular monument to water (originally constructed to celebrate the Marseille Canal), the glorious Palais Longchamp now brings together fabulous architecture, botanical gardens and museums in one spot. The Palais is made up of three main parts: the superb chateau d’eau (castle of water), the east wing, where you’ll find the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the west wing, where you will find the Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle. One of the most beautiful buildings in town, the Palais Longchamp is a must-visit in Marseille.
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Originally published at www.travioor.com.
