In 2020, Team Japan widened its lead in bouldering!

First and foremost, the purpose of these videos is to provide a record of international bouldering competitions. The 2020 season was fractured with only few truly international comps happening, these compilations are a quick opportunity to gain insight. I often provide splitscreens to facilitate comparisons between different climbers.

For insiders, like national coaches they give clear indications of which (national) programs are successful and where there is stagnation. For route-setters the videos are condensed views into what is working and what is not. For athletes, coaches and route-setters they are cornucopia of insight into the current state of bouldering!

For your convenience I provided links in the Youtube descriptions so that you can jump directly to the event you are interested in.

Bouldering Competitions 2020 — female highlights
Bouldering Competions 2020 — male highlights


Reflections of a Middle-Aged Boulder by John Gill, published in Mountain Magazine, mid-eighties

When I was in early twenties and at the peak for my fanatism for climbing, I read of a talk John gill, the father of modern bouldering gave in the UK when he was around 50 years old.

That’s me bouldering a classic boulder in Fontainebleau. Crashpads were invented about 6 years later…

Almost all external factors in bouldering are different nowadays, but the individual experience is very similar as we’ll see.

I must admit that I only read the piece because it was by John Gill and don’t remember that I was very impressed by it.

But, it made…


While there is abundant information about physical preparation for climbing, there is very little concerning the mental and technical aspects and almost nothing regarding skill acquisition in climbing. Ideas to improve your climbing is a three part video series that sheds some light!

Akiyo Noguchi

“The problem in football is you learn how to play the wrong way round — first execution, then decision making & perception last. I’ve lost many top players because their head was on the ball. They were not seeing what was around them.“

Arsene Wenger, Top players have radars in their heads


While there is abundant information about physical preparation for climbing, there is very little concerning the mental and technical aspects and almost nothing regarding skill acquisition in climbing. Ideas to improve your climbing is a three part video series that sheds some light!

Janja Garnbret

Adaptability is the most important ability for every climber!

When climbing you have to recognize when to continue your course, and when it’s time for a change.

This vitally important recognition and ability to make crisp, swift decisions in your best interest is called adaptability.

Adaptability is the most important ability for every climber!

Akiyo Noguchi and Janja Garnbret

Above are the only two climbers…


While there is abundant information about physical preparation for climbing, there is very little concerning the mental and technical aspects and almost nothing regarding skill acquisition in climbing. Ideas to improve your climbing is a three part video series that sheds some light!

Ideas to improve your Climbing, pt.1

Let’s be clear — if you believe that climbing performance is only dependent on your physical fitness and can be therefore improved with only physical training — these videos are not for you!

While the first video deals extensively with aspects like mobility and shoulder health, I quickly expand to climbing biomechanics and new developments in climbing…


Kruder almost winning Vail, 2009

I wrote this article after the first half of the 2018 IFSC Boulder World Cup, later Jernej Kruder should win the overall World Cup.

In the isolation zone at the Bouldering World Cup in Vail, Kruder could not be missed.

He was wearing huge headphones, but no climbing shoes to warm up. Nonetheless, he was doing the most extreme stunts. (I call him Kruder since he clearly instructed me to do so in 2011. No sure if this is still valid, but I wouldn’t want him as an enemy!) Year later, he still was “fiery young Jernej Kruder” for…


Hips Don’t Lie!

Hips Don’t Lie!

We celebrate the winners of a Boulder World Cup as the best overall climbers during the event. This was certainly the case again at the Hachioji Boulder World Cup in Japan, where Akiyo Noguchi and Gabri Moroni displayed impressive performances throughout the whole event.

For advancing to the next round though, especially in tough rounds, a single exceptional ability sometimes be enough. In the case of the mens qualification group B, with exceptional awareness, mobility and control of your hip you could advance to semis.

Let’s look into how „Hip Control“ played a deciding role throughout the event.

Hips Don’t…


“Which part of the hip leads the movement?” — with Akiyo Noguchi

Since my approach to climbing performance coaching in recent years has been informed by my work with the German Bouldering Team, you might wonder how the demands on a competitor at an international boulder comp relate to that of a general climber, who might have goals in for example rock climbing. If it is a higher overall competence in all climbing situations you are aiming for, your goal is remarkly similar to that of top competitor— to be prepared for whatever the climb demands!

Check out my on-going Climbing Performance Coaching mind map here!

What the climb demands and if…


our awesome team in Innsbruck, 2015 — European Bouldering Champions Juliane Wurm and Jan Hojer!


Interest in an English version of Klettertraing on Instagram

The german version of the book Klettertraining has been a tremendous success so far. It is only natural that non-german-speaking climbers are curious when an english version will be available. I hear you and I’m working on it, for now let me tell you a bit about some aspects of Klettertraining. I will share more about Klettertraining while working on the English version, so please stay posted!

Udo Neumann

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