by Francesca Kapunan
Beyond the tumbling waves and wild parties of General Luna, you can find yourself in Pacifico Beach, a quaint surf town in the hushed side of the island.
It isn’t that Pacifico is some secluded area only accessible by a helicopter ride, nor can it hardly be considered a best kept secret. Located in the municipality of San Isidro in Siargao Island, the beach is just a mere one hour ride away from General Luna, accessible through the island’s circumferential road.
But there was something in the way locals told us about the area, almost like it were a secret they kept only to themselves, in a hipster “it’s more island life because it’s a lot more quiet there” kind of way. Regardless, we couldn’t help but be curious. So with an invite from my dad’s friend and the offer of kinilaw, it didn’t take much for us to jump inside a beat up, rented Toyota Innova and begin the short drive up north.
We visited Siargao back in June, as summer in the Philippines hit its peak. The weather and climate was what you could expect of a tropical country — the heat from the sun skin-burning and the air humid and salty from the sea, the respite of a breeze of wind occasional. With the windows of the car rolled down and indie music playing from our phones (the car stereo was too obsolete for bluetooth), we watched the scenery shift. From the sea, to rows upon rows of coconut trees, to the riverside, and back to the sea.
We weren’t exactly sure what to expect at Pacifico.
“Ano meron dun,” asked my sister.
“Malalaman natin ‘pag napuntahan natin,” my dad replied nonchalantly.
Personally, I didn’t bother to look it up online. It couldn’t be much different from the rest of the island; in my head I pictured a beach facing the Pacific ocean, with waves large enough to be surfed. I wasn’t wrong.
But there was a certain charm held by the beach and the small town, one that isn’t afforded by General Luna. It was a sight to see, much more to experience, and I finally understood the hype about the place. Whereas General Luna is a bustle with hostels, souvenir shops, restaurants, tattoo parlors, and surf schools lined up beside each other — Pacifico is a sleepy town.
- How to get there
To get to Pacifico, ride north from General Luna and take the Siargao Circumferential Road until you arrive in San Isidro municipality. The most common mode of transportation within the island is through motorbike, which can cost you about PHP 500 per day. If you are feeling a bit more relaxed, you can also rent a tricycle to take you to and fro; and haggle prices with the driver. This price range varies; and it can cost you as low as PHP 400- 2000, depending on your negotiation skills. Personally, my family chose to go there by to car since there were four of us in our group Through a friend, we were able to rent a manual Toyota Innova for 24 hours that cost us about P3000.
2. Riding the waves
The most obvious thing to do in Siargao is to surf. Like the rest of the island, Pacifico boasts world class waves that often hosts annual competitions in the area. If you’re a beginner, you can take lessons at a local surf camp in the area, but just be sure your instructor is certified to teach by the Siargao Island Surfers Association so your safety is guaranteed. Pries start as PHP 500, and with enough luck and balance, you might even be able to stand up on the board by the end of your session.
Alternatively, if you’re a bit more experienced, you can also rent your own board and opt away from the lesson. Short boards typically cost about PHP 350; and long boards around PHP 400.
3. Other things to do
If you don’t feel like surfing through the waves, you can always just choose to swim in the beach or stay under the shade of a coconut tree. If you’re more in for the gram, you can go to Coconut road; quite literally a straight road lined with coconut trees on either side. As of late, this seems to be one of those venues where you haven’t really been to Siargao if you didn’t take a picture on coconut road.
When staying for longer than a day’s trip, you can also pay a visit to Magpupungko rock pools — tidal pools that is best visited when the tides are low.
4. Dining
For food, I highly recommend dining at Barrel Spot, an unassuming hostel that my sister and I chanced upon as we were driving around the area in quest for food. They serve one of the best pizzas I’ve tried , but their speciality is their homemade smoked chorizo which is honestly a contender for the ones served by more mainstream restaurants. Barrel Spot also hosts tapas nights, where you can have a glass of wine or sangria while engaging in friendly conversation the owners.
5. Accommodations
While Pacifico may not be as crowded as General Luna, you can still find a variety of accommodations that may be your fit, depending on the budget.
Bang for the buck: Calypso Surf Resort
Price: $$
Accommodating staff, near restaurants, value for money.
Mid Range: Pacifico Bigwish Beach Resort
Price: $$$
Good location, reasonable price, clean bathroom.
Verdict
If you prefer things kept low-key, then Pacifico beach will most definitely be for you. I personally wasn’t too sold with Siargao when I visited General Luna, because I found the crowd too rowdy and too familiar with home. Pacifico however, holds a different kind of charm that may get you enamored (like me) when you visit.
