Summer joy in Peaks Island, even in 2020
Seeking and creating joy is necessary during difficult times. I am a traveler, and travel brings me immense joy. But is it possible to travel safely and responsibly during this pandemic summer?
After five months of quarantine life in a one-bedroom apartment in New York City, more than 60 days of protests over racial injustice, and some heartache, I needed to catch my breath and find some joy. For me, joy is rebellion, it’s sustenance, and a quintessentially feminist choice.
Nothing gives me more joy than traveling, but how do you travel in the middle of a pandemic, safely and responsibly? Here are some highlights from my recent trip to Peaks Island, Maine, with my dog Simba.
Peaks Island is a four-mile island on the Casco Bay, a 15-minute ferry ride from Portland, Maine. I’ve had a 17-year-long love affair with Maine that started with a road trip to Bar Harbor, the gates of the Acadia National Park. Portland was supposed to be a quick stop. The city enamored me with its local artists and brews, lobster shacks and fine dining, and the Casco Bay, with its string of 12 islands.
I’ve returned to Portland almost every year since then and signed up for the “sunset mail boat run” on the Casco Bay that gave a glimpse of the islands and their lore.
The first time Simba hopped on to the Peaks Island Ferry, he stuck his nose as far out as he could, and sighed happily. He was a boat dog, and Peaks Island was to become his lair. So that’s where we went, for a week of summer, and to spark some joy.
Things we do on Peaks Island
If you google Peaks Island, you’ll come across this a lot — “There is not a lot to do on Peaks Island.” It’s absolutely true. If you want a lot of cultural activities, restaurants and shopping, stay in Portland, Maine. But if sleeping on an island gives you happy dreams and you want to smell the salty air even before you take the first sip of coffee in the morning, head over to Peaks Island. Get tested, travel responsibly, wear your mask, and keep your distance from others.
The locals who live here and tourists who return frequently, value its history, simplicity and tranquility. Here are some fun things we do when we are on island time.
1. Walk the loop around the island
Take a 4-mile walk around the island. We usually start near the Fifth Maine Museum and walk on Seashore Avenue that hugs the back shore with its rocky beaches and small coves that are perfect for swimming and picnicking. There are some impressive homes with views along Seashore Avenue.
If you veer away from the shore road, you can see Battery Steele, remnants of a World War II fort. Peaks Island was an important military base during World War II and hosted some 800 soldiers.
Stay on the loop on Seashore Avenue, and you’ll soon come to the Whaleback ledge. Take in the sweeping sea views and listen to the waves before continuing, then turn left on Trefethen Avenue and join Island Avenue. Near City Point, you can access a sandy beach and take a swim. Follow Island Avenue towards the ferry landing to finish the loop. You’ll walk past the only supermarket on the island, Hannigan’s Island Market, which among other necessities, has decent wine. If you’re like Simba and me, at this point, you’re ready for some beer and lunch.
Our favorite place to eat on the island are Millie’s Skillet, a take-out joint with picnic tables outside (and good lobster rolls), or The Island Lobster Co., which has amazing water views from its deck, and the best steamers. It also has a large selection of fried seafood, lobster, burgers and sandwiches. Other restaurants include the Peaks Island Inn, the Cockeyed Gull, and Peaks Cafe.
2. Find yourself a beach, sit, stay, swim
Life is a (mostly rocky) beach in Peaks Island. Simba and I love the Ryefield Cove and Picnic Point, with its cool shallow water and shaded picnic spots. I prefer the rocky coves to the sandy beaches like the Centennial Beach, located on Island Avenue down City Point Road. Check out the island information before you head to a beach, since some are private.
Pack yourself some snacks and wine, a good book, beach towels, water and dog treats. Sit, stay, swim, nap, and do nothing else.
3. Rent a bike or kayak
Everyone talks about biking on Peaks Island. I often do long walks instead, but it’s fun to rent a bike from Brad’s Bike Rental and Repair shop and ride around the island. After the ride, get some ice cream at the gift shop near the ferry landing.
If you like to kayak, there are kayaking trips run by Maine Island Kayak co. in summer, but they were not running tours when I was in Peaks because of COVID-19. Check their website for updated information.
If you can rent and drive a boat, there are many small islands and sand bars for picnics.
4. Cook a lobster dinner
I am obsessed with lobsters. I like them steamed, with butter and lemon, and nothing else. I don’t do fancy lobster dishes. You can call me a purist, you can call me obsessive, you can call me whatever… I really don’t care. No one comes between me and my lobster.
But… until I started spending summers on Peaks Island, I didn’t know how to cook one!
Head to the ferry landing in the afternoon and buy some fresh lobster from the little shop there. Their prices are great, and if you need instructions on how to cook a lobster, ask them.
I boiled mine using a large lobster pot. Add 1–2 tbsp of salt to the water, unless using sea water, and once the water comes to a rolling boil, thank the lobster and drop it in. It took me 6–7 min for a 1 ¼ pound lobster, 9–10 min for a 1 ½ pound lobster. Fish it out of the water with a tong, let it rest. Serve with melted butter, lemon wedges, and a side of corn.
I also fell in love with the steamers at The Island Lobster Co. and they serve a good (and cheap) lobster dinner, if you don’t want to cook one yourself.
5. Explore the quirky parts
Visit the Umbrella Cover Museum, because… why not?
It’s featured in the Guinness World Record for the most number of umbrella covers — 730 in 2012, but the website now boasts over 2000 umbrella sleeves donated from around the world. They come with their own stories. Read more on the museum website.
The museum is currently closed. Simba is not allowed in this museum, even with his ESA tags and inimitable charm, so come without your canine companion when the museum reopens.
On one of our long walks, Simba and I came across a mobile bookshop called Quay Words on Brackett Avenue. The founder/owner had set up a van full of used books and a tent with comfortable seating under the trees in her front yard. It was a perfect and quaint place to stop for a break and browse books.
6. Take a day trip to Portland
Portland is a vibrant city with a fantastic food scene, and a perfect mix of kitsch and art. If you are traveling during the pandemic, the options may be limited or restricted (and for good reason).
Simba and I took the ferry to Portland for lunch at Gritty McDuff’s, touted as “Maine’s original brew pub”. They have a great bar that’s usually lively in the evenings (pre-COVID), but for now I was happy to sit outside and tuck into cups of thick and creamy clam chowder. This is my favorite place for clam chowder in Portland; Gilbert’s Chowder House is a close second. Gritty brews its own beer, and they are all insanely delicious.
Walk around the Old Port area, shop for bohemian clothes and jewelry (check out Mexicali Blues), get some old fashioned candies at Old Port Candy Co. (Fore Street), and ice cream at Beal’s Famous Old Fashioned Ice Cream, a mainstay since 1988.
Portland Museum of Art has reopened and has timed entry tickets. I also love exploring the old book stores and antique shops. But for the most part, Simba and I just walk and get lost in the small streets, stop where we see good food, beer, books or art.
Google for the latest cocktail jaunts when you visit— there’s always something new and fantastic happening in this city. Don’t miss the poutine and other delicious fare at Duck Fat!
On Saturdays and Wednesdays, you can also browse, graze and stock up at the farmer’s market at Deering Oaks Park.
In the evening, head to Portland Lobster Company on Commercial Street, and make it a big lobster dinner on the deck. On weekends they have live music, and (pre-COVID) it’s a lively scene in a quaint way. I have fond memories of devouring lobsters and dancing with my dog after many IPAs there. It’s on the way to the ferry station where you can get the ferry back to Peaks Island.
If you stay longer, drive (or take an Uber) to Two Lights State Park. The name comes from the twin lighthouses, one of which is a private home now. There’s a great lobster shack, with sweeping views of the ocean, where you can get clam bakes, fried seafood, and of course, lobsters. You can also stop at Portland Headlight, take an afternoon stroll, catch some coastal views, and snack on lobster gummy candies.
Travel Basics and tips
Many friends have asked me how we got there and what we did to travel safely. We recognize what a privilege it is to take a vacation at a time like this. Doing it safely and responsibly was extremely important for us, as was seeing family and creating some joyful moments. Here are some tips from the brown dog and me!
- I had to get a COVID-19 test and sign a form provided by the landlord of the house I was renting — it’s called Porches. Make sure to find out the rules of the state you’re traveling to and how long it’s taking to get a COVID-19 test result, and plan your travel accordingly. I was also careful about quarantining after the test.
- Simba and I flew to Boston and then drove to Peaks Island with our family. There are limited flights going directly to Portland, Maine.
- Simba is a trained Emotional Support Animal and flies with me. He is trained in public access and although he is a complete natural when it comes to flying, we highly recommend training your dog. Every time Simba travels well, he sets a good example, and that’s important for other traveling canines and their human counterparts. Training him also deepened our bond and improved our understanding of each other.
- Wear a good mask, carry wipes and hand sanitizer while traveling. I masked up for the entire duration of my travel, in the airport and in flight. I chose to fly Delta Airlines, because their safety and prevention strategies were reassuring.
- Stay in or stay away from people when outdoors. Wear a mask. Wash your hands often. And, listen to the medical experts — they know what they are talking about.
