Chile, Day 9

Legs movin’ side to side, smack it in the air

There is no time for breakfast today, because I woke up too late. Despite the 9 hours of sleep I still don’t feel fully rested and I’m leaving the house sleepy and in a rush. I am thinking of sand boarding on the Dunes of Concon yesterday which was just as physically demanding as today’s activity is going to be. But I wouldn’t want to miss out on any of the activities we were offered – we’re outdoors, we see new spots in the area, always with the most breathtaking views, we’re sandboarding, surfing, kayaking. The mini bus is moaning and groaning on the curvy road. After 45 minutes we arrive at the beach of Concon. The weather is gloomy and it’s cold, but the waves look good – as far as a wannabe surfer can tell. As we’re waiting for the surf shop to open up, I glance around. Facing the Ocean, lightly built wooden huts and shacks look like the cliché surfer paradise and even more so the Volkswagen buses parked in front of them.

We put our wetsuits on and warm up. A mix of yoga and limbering up gets us ready for what will be the first time on a surf board for all six of us. Who said yoga was just for the ladies! We position our boards next to each other on the beach and lie down on them. Still on land, they show us how to paddle and get up in a slightly squatted position. It seems easy enough but I know it will be different once the force of the Ocean pushes you land ways. Rule number one: when getting up, don’t put weight on your knee. In fact, never ever kneel. Once we’re in the water, the time flies. Lying on the board, we’re paddling around waiting for the right waves. Occasionally, there are pelicans coming our way, flying on eye level with us, trying to spot fish in the water. Wave by wave, I am trying not to miss the few moments you have to get up. And when on the board, not to fall immediately. I kept falling, the waves breaking over me before crashing onto the shore.

This is story 4/5 of my Chile short stories. Read Chile, Day 11 now.