A window into picturesque North Sikkim

Part II: When time stood still and nature took over

“I felt my lungs inflate with the rush of the scenery, air, mountains and trees, I thought, this is what it is to be alive, this is what it is to be happy.”

After my adventurous previous day into North Sikkim, I woke up to a beautiful morning. The birds were chirping and the rain had ceased. I stepped out of my guest room to be greeted by a cold mountain breeze on my face and a view that left me spellbound!

Lush green mountains with countless waterfalls cascading down its facade that fed into the the river flowing in the valley below. After a breakfast of yummy army mess made Aloo paranthas and hot coffee it was time for me to set out exploring the countryside. There was a tiny paved mountain path that had breathtaking views of the mountains and the valley below. I walked over a culvert which had a stream gushing beneath it. A sturdy mountain bridge with colourful prayer flags tied all around its edges fluttered happily as a waterfall sent an icy cold spray of water all around it.

Mesmerising views, with low clouds and the occasional drizzle, this place was breathtakingly beautiful! All my irritation from yesterdays adventure seemed to have vanished away, with just one glance at this picture postcard perfect beauty!

My next stop was the quaint monastery of Lachen. The monastery is referred as the Launching Gompa and was originally built in 1806. This monastery has allegiance to the Nyingmapa sect of Mahayana Buddhism and has architecture with a lot of Tibetan influence. I was greeted by a chirpy and young monk who showed me around the temple.

The ever imposing and fierce Guru Rinpoche stood overpowering the main sanctum sanctorum and dainty and intricate statues of the other Boddhisattvas adorned this holy shrine. I was lucky enough to be taken upstairs and shown the wares and garments that are used for their traditional festivals and was treated to some piping hot tea and honoured with a white scarf, traditional to Tibetan Buddhists.

My next stop were the ancient ruins of another monastery which was a few hundred meters from my current location. Damaged badly during an earthquake a few years ago, the intricate century old woodwork and plaster were in need of urgent repair. Luckily, for this shrine, they had two lovely ladies to its rescue. Hailing from France and Germany, Katherine and Melody were two volunteers who were spending a good two years in Chaten working tirelessly on restoring this sacred space. They were kind enough to show me how they would jigsaw pieces of the fallen debris together and then re-plaster them before they put them up on the exterior and interior of the monastery.

Their zeal, spirit and sheer love for the culture and people from this part of the world was truly inspirational and I felt ashamed on how fussy and finicky us city slickers get at times.

It was past noon and after some delightful tea, conversation and high altitude walking, it was time for some lunch! My lunch stop was at the gorgeous Apple Orchard resort in Lachen. Lachen literally meaning the Big Pass, is inhabited by the Lachenpas of the Bhutia community. This resort owned by a local Bhutia is perfectly set in this picturesque valley with a river, green slopes and conifers dotting the landscape all over. The clouds kissing the hill tops, added a magical charm to this place.

The resort is a gorgeously landscaped little piece of heaven set amidst an apple orchard. Vivid grey stone construction beset with ornately carved wooden doors greeted me into a tiny alcove where a warm hearth sat burning.

My lunch was a delicious hot bowl of soup with noodles and locally grown bean and lentils in it. Along with some freshly fried chilly pork and rice. The local beer was a popular option but I chose to savour in my meal with some hot tea which seemed more perfect for the weather.

By the time I was done with lunch, the clouds had begun to descend even further and heavy rainfall looked imminent. I decided to wind up and take in the last few hours of daylight and proceed on to Chungthang, which would be my stop for tonight.

Waving out to the warm faces and large hearted people of this little village, I hugged my local guide good bye and promised him that I would come back and visit him once again. That is the beauty of North Sikkim, it leaves the senses yearning for more!

As I drove past the windy, slushy roads that irked me just a day ago, this time all I could do was sit back and take in the scenery and the fresh mountain air with drops pattering on my face for one last time before I set back into the dreary dusty plains down below.

Splendid Sikkim, will surely etch a place in your heart forever!

To read Part One of this story, click here.

To visit this Himalayan kingdom and a lot more get in touch with me at Offbeat Tracks.