A day in Calle Fortaleza
There is hardly anything that I love more than to walk the narrow streets of Old San Juan. There’s always something new, waiting for you to stumble upon it. And yet the city’s Spanish past is still surprisingly present in modern-day traditions, in the architecture, in the food. It never ceases to amaze me how the past and the present converge to create a familiar but novel landscape.
Let’s take for example Calle Fortaleza — the street in which I was raised. I like to think that I know by heart every single crease or crack or loose cobblestone on this dynamic street. And from time to time, a new boutique blossoms on the sidewalk. A brand-new restaurant greets its clients for the first time. A recently-established art gallery flourishes.
Nevertheless, Calle Fortaleza prides itself on its historic origins.
After walking up and down these streets far more times than I can count, here’s a list of some of the more interesting attractions, restaurants and shopping experiences in Calle Fortaleza:
9:00 AM: Take a tour of La Fortaleza.
At the beginning of the street, we have la Fortaleza, residence to 152 governors (Spanish, American, and Puerto Rican) for almost five consecutive centuries. Originally, la Fortaleza was built to defend San Juan from attackers, but its localization proved to be futile for the defense strategy.
Nowadays, you can take a tour of the old fort and the regal gardens.
10:30 AM: Visit the Convento de las Siervas de María (Servants of Mary Convent)
Just a few steps away from La Fortaleza, you’ll find the Convent of the Servants of Mary. Located in one of the most beautiful spots in the city (atop a cliff, with a matchless view of the bay), this convent also houses a “Casa de Salud”, where ailing women are restored to health by the nuns.
12:00 PM: Have a handmade ice cream roll at Himalaya Ice Co.
Puerto Rico is known to be a scalding hot island, especially during the summer. Don’t let that heat-induced fatigue get the best of you! Instead, order a refreshing ice cream roll (or two) at Himalaya Ice Co.
Some of the favorites are the Tesla, the Barry Barry and the Piña Colada.
12:30 PM: Head over to Fundación Nacional para la Cultura Popular
This place is all about preserving and promoting Puerto Rican popular culture. You’ll find a vast collection of CDs, LPs, movies, and other memorabilia from the best of the scenic arts in Puerto Rico. Moreover, you’ll get to see a display of fifteen Grammys Calle 13 has won over the years, and Lin Manuel Miranda’s Usnavi costume from In the Heights.
2:00 PM: Grab a pizza from Pirilo
In the past few years, Pirilo has conquered the hearts (and appetite) of pizza fans galore. If you’d like to try a Puerto Rican-styled pizza (topped with sweet plantains and ground beef), this is the place. Ask the waiters for their favorites and try some new flavors!
3:30 PM: Learn how to make soaps at Marisel Herbal Bath and Body
There’s no better place in Old San Juan to buy aromatic oils, soaps, and dried plants than in Marisel’s shop. Made with premium, organic ingredients, Marisel’s oils are some of the best in the market. Try her peppermint oil to feel more awake, or lavender to relax. Or take a class on how to make artisanal soaps and creams. Whatever you do, I know you’ll have a great time.
4:30 PM: Watch the sunset from Hotel CasaBlanca’s terrace
By this point, you’re probably exhausted and in dire need of some rest. Why not lounge in Hotel CasaBlanca’s longue chaises, or take a dip on one of its rooftop concrete bathtubs? Relax for a bit, enjoy the view of San Cristóbal Fort and el Capitolio, and take in the magnificent sunset on the modern terrace of this eclectic hotel.
6:30 PM: Unwind at The Cigar House
Every single sanjuanero knows about this place, whether they’ve been here or not. It’s just one of the most iconic and long-standing establishments in the city. At The Cigar House you’ll get the full experience: from getting a tour into their humidor (and their vast selection of fine cigars), to learning more about the history regarding cigars, to tasting the cigars in their smoker’s area, equipped with a full bar. Enjoy a splendid evening with friends and locals in this marvelous shop!
