by Cristina Pérez
Click HERE to listen to the roadtrip’s playlist.
Click HERE to open up the map.
The sweltering Puerto Rican heat only means one thing: summer is coming, and it’s approaching fast. At work and at school hems tend to get shorter and the fabrics lighter. At home we all start fantasizing about day trips around the island with our friends and families. It’s inevitable: this upcoming season is the best to enjoy Puerto Rico’s natural and human-made attractions. That’s why today we focus on giving you a comprehensive toolkit (comprised of a map with possible routes and stops, a two-hour-long playlist and a brief description of the sites) to go on a roadtrip from San Juan to Cabo Rojo, the southwestern tip of the island.
But before I delve into the particulars of the trip, I’ll offer a short introduction to our destination: Cabo Rojo.
For decades, this town of red earth and pink waters has been one of the locals’ favorite spots for a quick getaway. As soon as you get to the south you can feel the difference in the air: everything is brighter, hotter, dryer. And there’s not one bit of the constant humidity that assaults visitors and locals alike in the northeast. Then we have the beaches: those vast expanses of fine, white sands followed by ripples upon ripples of cerulean waters, sometimes engulfed by a ring of red rocks and resilient, thorny shrubs (a hike that makes for a pleasant afternoon in Playa Sucia, for example).
But Cabo Rojo is also its people, and there’s no better place to experience the local culture than in the Boquerón Village, an idyllic beachside neighborhood that lives almost exclusively of tourism and fishing.
At night, the village bustles effervescently: seafood shacks line up along the sidewalks as the owners open up clams, mussels and oysters with pocket knives. You will take one shell with your hand and bring it up to your mouth. The smell of sea is strong, you will acknowledge this quickly. The saltiness of the residual seawater pooled in the shell will invigorate your taste buds. There is cocktail sauce, limes and tabasco if you wish to uplift the shellfish flavor. I can only describe it as savoring the ocean.
But this is far from being the only attraction Boquerón Village can offer: there are bars that set up karaoke showdowns in the middle of the street, and shacks that sell exquisite seafood fritters, while others boast billiard tables and velloneras (Spanish for “jukebox”) to rein in customers.
One of my favorite places to go for a drink is El Bulgao, a bar that sells different flavors of chichaíto, the renowned white rum and anisette shot. Every single flavor is amazing, but the coconut chichaíto is just as remarkable as it can get.
Maybe one of the most distinctive and enchanting aspects of the village is that it’s small enough that you can walk around comfortably and do some bar-hopping at ease, but diverse enough so as not to bore the visitors.
The route to Cabo Rojo
It’s 8AM, you have picked up your friends and are en route to the Puerto Rican south via PR-52. The morning is clear — although a bit hazy through the winding slopes in Cayey — and you have already organized everything you need: a full gas tank; beach chairs; towels; a backpack with a couple of outfits; sunglasses; hiking boots and flip flops; the cooler is filled with ice, drinks and appetizers; your phone is paired to the sound system and the playlist I made you gently prepares you and your fellow adventurers for the day ahead.
After an hour and a half along the PR-52, you’ll get to Ponce, the first pit stop and a break to shake off the numbness that has taken over your legs. Here you can visit the emblematic Parque de Bombas (historically a fire station, now a museum), which is known for its black and red façade. You can walk around the Plaza de las Delicias and grab a bite or a delicious ice cream (almond is a favorite among locals!).
The second site on our map is El Velorio (Spanish for “the wake”) in Peñuelas, a restaurant and bar that’s known for its lively chinchorreo scene. Here you can eat Puerto Rican food for a reasonable price and celebrate life the way we love to in Puerto Rico: with music and dancing.
Next up, El Triángulo Seafood in the Guayanilla coast. Here you’ll be able to enjoy some of the best seafood fritters while in front of the serene Caribbean Sea. The conch salad is a must!
The fourth item on our list is Finca El Girasol in Guánica: a spellbinding sunflower field, where you can stop to relax and take beautiful pictures. You can also buy sunflowers for $3 each. Bonus: if you’re in no hurry to get to Cabo Rojo and have a few hours to spare, I suggest you take the boat to Guilligan’s Island, a small but charming key off the Guánica coast.
Now we have La Parguera in Lajas, where you can rent kayaks or paddleboards and explore the Parguera canals. Moreover, you can have some drinks or lunch in the local establishments. This beach is quite popular with Puerto Ricans, so it’s also a great place to meet locals and ask them more about what to do in Lajas.
Finally: Cabo Rojo.
Here you have several options. First, you can go to Boquerón Village and check-in into any of the great (and inexpensive!) airbnbs around. But maybe you’re ready to experience one of the most astounding beaches in Puerto Rico: Playa Sucia. This crescent-like beach has many secret spots that you can scout by taking a stroll. Moreover, you can enjoy a visit to the emblematic Los Morillos Lighthouse, which is perched on the top of a cliff right next to Playa Sucia.
If you’d rather go to the forest, I would suggest that you wait until morning and head over to the Bosque Estatal de Boquerón, where you can go hiking, biking or just fishing.
Ideally, this roadtrip would take about two days to complete, but the pace and the sites you end up visiting are up to you and your group’s wishes. After all, Puerto Rico’s Southwest is a culturally rich region with numerous natural attractions: you just have to take the time to explore them. Moreover, if you find any other spots you love but aren’t listed here, please leave them in the comments down below. Thank you for reading and I hope you have a great trip!
*Special thanks to Roxana for pointing me in the right direction.
