By Lydette Lanzó Rivera
Home to one of the best baseball teams in Latin America, Los Criollos; and the ideal place to be on the last Friday night of the month to enjoy the Al Fresco, an art and gastronomy fest.
When I first asked a cagüeño to describe Caguas, they pointed out that it’s the only valley on the center of the island. “It’s beautiful. Wherever you stand, you’ll see mountains all around you”. This town, named after the Taíno leader, or cacique, Caguax, is commonly referred to as the Turabo Valley. At just 30 minutes from San Juan, it offers an array of cultural activities and exciting points of interest for anyone who visits.
Mornings are calmer at the Santiago R. Palmer Plaza. It’s an open space, differing from the narrow streets leading to the city center. The smell of freshly roasted coffee travels all around. Café Palmer starts off the day serving its faithful clientele. Maybe a sugary donut or a malt beverage will do, but surely a cup of Puerto Rican coffee will jump-start the day. The high tables beside this small kiosk offer the best views of the plaza and the Dulce Nombre de Jesús Cathedral, where inside rests the first blessed Puerto Rican, Carlos Manuel Rodríguez. The carousel is getting ready for the day, polishing the horses and trying out the lights, so the kids can have some fun too. Strolling around the plaza, a peculiar squawk calls attention to the aviary on one of the far sides of the plaza, home to the parrots, Hugo and Hortensia. Say “¡Hola!”, they might say it back!
Ruta del corazón criollo
The morning still feels fresh, but the sun is slowly gaining strength. The Tourism Office makes for a first stop. In this historic building, which was once the headquarters of the now-defunct newspaper La Democracia. Cagüeños love their town and are confident in what they have to offer. That’s why the Tourism Office has all the necessary tools for an enriching trip. Across the town square, small mosaics tiles adorn the sidewalks. As they trace a path along a string of key points, knowledge and cultural meaning will take center stage in a 12-stop trip through history and evolution of the Puerto Rican identity known as the Ruta del corazón criollo.
Tile by tile, the museums and historic buildings are at the forefront of this tour. The Caguas’ History Museum, which was once Caguas town hall, exhibits artifacts from the earliest indigenous civilizations on the island until the Spanish settlers. Following the mosaic arrows on the pavement, a peculiar smell fills the street. It’s a subtle smell, almost like burnt wood. A whiff of what might be cigarette leads to the Herminio Torres Grillo Tobacco Museum, unique in Puerto Rico. At first sight, a ranchón tabacalero denotes the drying of the leaves. All around the museum, the history of tobacco production on the island and the instruments they once used to make the craft are displayed across a small gallery on Ramón Emeterio Betances street. The women behind a glass door craft the cigars daily.
Sweet treats along the way
Down the road, three Puerto Rican flags decorate the facade of a sangría factory. Los Hermanos makes for an enticing deviation from the route. The very same owner opens its door to a small space decorated with glass bottles, and a massive world map detailed with pins all its visitor’s country of origin. Flavors ranging from coconut, tamarind and guava, the tasting finishes off with a toast passed down from generations:
“Preciosísimo licor, hijo de la caña tuerta, tú que te quieres meter y yo que te abro la puerta”.
An ode to ron caña, or moonshine rum.
After tasting one sangria, maybe two, the stomach’s feeling kind of empty. After asking around, there’s a divide on whether eating at pillar establishments, who’ve been around for more than thirty years or venture onto the newest, hottest places opening in town every other week. Staples like the Mario’s Pizza franchise, with their local’s favorite pepperoni pizza and their generous calzones, have placed themselves well into the Caguas experience. However, places like El Grifo, a fully vegan restaurant, are bringing new things to the table in a nontraditional way with their tuno sandwich and meatless burgers.
A full stomach makes it harder to walk, but it seems like a healthier alternative. However, the throttle of the trolley is heard down the block. It continuously circles the city center as a much simple way to get to know Caguas — free of charge.
After many museum visits, where the urge to touch is suppressed, the Criollo Center for Science and Technology granted us the opportunity to touch basically everything. This three-floor building offers numerous interactive activities for kids. Childish laughter echoes the center, as they run around touching the exhibits, learning new things about the human body and nature. The little-hurried steps are the most common noise and even adults get to enjoy a run or two around the center.
After exiting an enclosed space, a breath of fresh air and an interaction with nature is next up on the list. On a 13-minute ride from the plaza, the Botanical and Cultural Garden William Miranda Marín is the perfect place. This living museum holds an abundance of flora and fauna rightfully preserved by the garden keepers and tour guides. A watchful stroll, or a cart ride, takes you on a journey into our multicultural heredity, with both Taíno and African presence. The Taíno used the achiote tree to paint their faces as they were getting ready for battle. Here, you’ll have the chance to paint your face as well with the numerous achiote trees on site. The eye-catching Osaín statue in the African Grove, which rises from the ground roots and slowly personifies in a sculpture, represents the union between nature and humankind. The Cagüitas River flows right through the middle of the garden. A bridge overlooking the stream helps to appreciate this calming view. More to explore, more to see beyond the bridge. The Funche Restaurant also serves a nice meal if the stomach ever growls and you wish to call it off for the day.
However, the perfect way to end a trip to Caguas is by trying a local craft beer, alongside a tour. That’s why the F.O.K. (Fresh Off the Keg) Brewery Company makes the perfect last stop. With a selection of more than 15 beers on tap, this small brewery has won the hearts of anyone who comes across a glass of one of their craft beers. Not only is a tour available, but the owner will gladly take his time to instruct the visitors on the process and history of the company. On Fridays, the brewery opens its terrace outdoors with live music and a local food truck makes it company to complement the end of the week enjoyment along with the family.
Caguas always welcomes you with open arms, so hop on your car, get outside the metro area and see what it has in store for you!
