The fantabulous storytelling through costuming: A style analysis on the Dc Extended Universe’s Harley Quinn
Harley Quinn was created by Paul Dini and Bruce Timm for Batman: The Animated Series as a henchwoman for the Joker, and debuted in its 22nd episode, “Joker’s Favor”, on September 11, 1992. While intended to appear in one episode, Quinn became a recurring character within the DC Animated Universe (DCAU) as the Joker’s sidekick and love interest, and was adapted into DC Comics’ canon seven years later, beginning with the one-shot Batman: Harley Quinn #1 (October 1999). Quinn’s origin story features her as a former psychologist at Gotham City’s Arkham Asylum who was manipulated by and fell in love with the Joker, her patient, eventually becoming his accomplice and lover.
Ever since then, Harley Quinn has become a staple character in Batman and DC-related media, appearing in comics, cartoon series, and even the live-action DC Extended Universe. She is set to return to the big screen later this year in the sequel to Todd Phillips’ 2019 film The Joker, titled Joker: Folie à Deux played by American singer-songwriter and actress, Lady Gaga. In this article, however, I will focus on the costuming of Margot Robbie’s portrayal of Harley Quinn. This iteration debuted in David Ayer’s 2016 film Suicide Squad, continued in her 2020 spin-off movie Birds of Prey Birds of Prey and the Fantabulous Emancipation of One Harley Quinn directed by Cathy Yan, and reappeared in James Gunn’s 2021 The Suicide Squad. Costuming plays a significant role in conveying a character’s arc, and Robbie’s Harley Quinn is no exception.
To begin this analysis, we first need to understand the concept of the “male gaze.” Introduced by British feminist film theorist Laura Mulvey in her seminal 1973 essay “Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema,” the male gaze explores how mainstream media often objectifies women. Mulvey, a professor of film and media studies at Birkbeck, University of London, argues that women are typically presented through a heterosexual male perspective, reducing them to passive objects compared to the more dynamic male characters. This concept extends beyond film into various media, including advertisements, magazine covers, and social media, where women’s appearances and behaviors are scrutinized more intensely than men’s. For instance, women’s looks, clothing, and even facial expressions are often emphasized more than those of their male counterparts. Understanding the male gaze is crucial for analyzing Harley Quinn’s style in her 2016 big-screen debut in David Ayer’s Suicide Squad, where her costume design serves as a clear example of this phenomenon.
Suicide Squad (2016)
Let us start with Harley Quinn’s big-screen debut in the 2016 film Suicide Squad. Although part of a large ensemble cast, Harley Quinn, portrayed by Margot Robbie, stands out by stealing every scene she is in. Like many female comic book characters, Harley Quinn has been highly sexualized, and this is especially evident in this movie. The male gaze is apparent through the way her body is shot, her overtly sexual behavior, and her revealing costume. Margot Robbie herself expressed discomfort in an interview with The New York Times, revealing that she felt self-conscious about wearing the costume.
In Suicide Squad, Harley Quinn’s look is heavily influenced by her design in the 2009 game Batman: Arkham Asylum. However, her costuming in the film is more overtly sexualized, featuring a strategically torn shirt with the phrase “Daddy’s Little Monster,” booty shorts that resemble underwear, and a color scheme of red and blue meant to reference her original black and red palette. Her pigtails are dyed with blue and pink tips to mimic her iconic jester hat from the Batman animated series. Additionally, she wears a dog collar with “Puddin” on it, signifying her the Joker’s ownership over Harley, and a bomber-style jacket with “Joker’s Property” emblazoned on the back, reinforcing the notion of her ownership by the Joker.
Another aspect of Harley Quinn’s character design that needs to be discussed is her hair. The pigtails are designed to mimic her classic jester hat and pay homage to the Arkham video games, which played a role in transitioning Harley from her traditional jester outfit to increasingly revealing and sexualized attire. This shift reflects a trend toward catering to male audiences. The pigtails also highlight the issue of sexualizing a childlike aesthetic. In Suicide Squad, Harley’s sexy appearance is paired with immature, childlike behavior, creating a disconcerting juxtaposition. This blending of a youthful look with overtly sexual elements raises concerns about how female characters are portrayed, often reducing their complexity to fit specific audience expectations. But the thing is, there are ways to give a character a character pigtails without the look of it looking like a sexualized school girl like the one we see in her birds of prey appearance. After completing their mission, the Suicide Squad returned to prison. However, it is soon revealed that the Joker is still alive. He breaks Harley Quinn out of Belle Reve, marking the end of David Ayer’s Suicide Squad. Cathy Yan’s Birds of Prey is believed to be set a few months after these events.
Birds of Prey and the Fantabulous emancipation of one Harley Quinn (2020)
Set after the events of the previous film, Birds of Prey and the Fantabulous Emancipation of One Harley Quinn begins with the Joker breaking up with Harley Quinn. In this film, Harley’s style is more creative and DIY, perfectly reflecting her character arc. Throughout the movie, she has several costume changes, showcasing her evolving persona. In the previously mentioned New York Times interview, Margot Robbie mentioned that she would prefer not to wear revealing outfits in future Suicide Squad sequels, and she has stayed true to her word. As a producer of the film, Robbie ensured that Harley’s costumes were more reflective of her character’s development.
At the beginning of Birds of Prey, Harley’s hair is styled similarly to how it was in Suicide Squad. However, she eventually cuts it to a shorter length, symbolizing change and transformation. Although she continues to wear pigtails, they are positioned lower and are less childlike and sexualized. The more creative costuming that Harley Quinn dons in Birds of Prey symbolizes her journey of self-discovery following her breakup, much like how people often reinvent themselves after significant life changes. What makes the costuming in this film particularly notable is its emphasis on comfort over fashion. This contrasts sharply with her portrayal in the previous film, where Harley was depicted in idealized, sexualized outfits designed primarily for the male gaze.
Unlike Suicide Squad, where Harley Quinn is primarily seen in a single, established look throughout the film and its marketing, Birds of Prey features several distinct outfits. Notably, two standout costumes are the caution tape jacket and the golden jumpsuit.
In the first act of the film, especially during the scene where Harley blows up Ace Chemicals and running away from Black Mask’s goons, her caution tape jacket outfit perfectly encapsulates the chaotic and liberating feeling of starting over after a breakup. It’s fun, colorful, and aligns with the spirit of reinvention. As designer Erin Benach explained in her Business Insider interview, “Harley, she’s anti-establishment. Caution tape is the scene of a crime and the establishment. It made so much sense to me that she would take that symbol and essentially deface it and take it on as her own.”
Benach described the caution tape wings as embodying a DIY sensibility. “She would be able to maybe make that jacket and come up with that idea and just say, ‘I’ve broken up with The Joker. I’m independent now and I’m going to go party,’” Benach said, reflecting the symbolism behind the jacket. Despite the playful and party-like nature of the outfit, the caution tape also conveys a deeper message. “The other part of caution tape is like, ‘Don’t f — — with me,’” Benach added.
In the third act, Harley dons a striking golden jumpsuit. This outfit is designed to reference her original jester costume, featuring a diamond-patterned detail that nods to her classic look. The golden jumpsuit can be interpreted as symbolizing Harley’s peak moment — her rediscovery of self and transition from villain to anti-hero, particularly as she starts to protect Cassandra Cain, played by Ella Jay Basco, a child she has grown attached to.
The jumpsuit is paired with matching golden boots, although Harley later switches to roller skates that she wore earlier in the film. What stands out about this outfit is its practicality; it allows for dynamic movement without the risk of wardrobe malfunctions, contrasting sharply with the revealing costume from the first movie. This practical design emphasizes Harley’s growth and her focus on functionality as she embraces her role as an anti-hero.
The Suicide Squad (2021)
The Suicide Squad, directed by James Gunn, best known for his work on Marvel’s Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 1, serves as both a soft reboot of the 2016 Suicide Squad and a direct sequel to Birds of Prey. The film follows Harley Quinn and other characters in a narrative that effectively functions as a standalone experience. Viewers do not need to watch the previous films to understand or enjoy The Suicide Squad, as it maintains continuity with the established characters and lore. The film features familiar faces, including Rick Flag (played by Joel Kinnaman) and Captain Boomerang (played by Jai Courtney), who return from the previous Suicide Squad. Harley Quinn also appears, with the story acknowledging their past connections and involvement in the squad. Amanda Waller (played by Viola Davis) continues her role as the manipulative figure pulling the strings behind the scenes. Now, let’s focus on the costuming in this film.
In The Suicide Squad, Harley Quinn’s character arc comes full circle. Throughout the first film, there are glimpses of her past, including a flashback that reveals she once wore her iconic red and black jester outfit before transitioning to the style that we saw her in suicide squad. This final outfit symbolizes the culmination of her journey.
Harley’s evolution in costuming reflects her personal growth and transformation. From her initial red and black jester costume, through the pink and blue color palette of Suicide Squad, to the fun and colorful outfits in Birds of Prey, each change marked a phase in her character’s development. In The Suicide Squad, following her breakup, Harley reclaims the red and black colors, symbolizing her return to her roots while forging a new identity for herself. as we see her in a more practical battle outfit compared to her previous outfits that focused more on sexualization and comfort.
Conclusion
In conclusion, while the DC Extended Universe has faced its share of criticisms and inconsistencies, it has undeniably demonstrated how costuming can effectively convey a character’s journey and evolution. Through Harley Quinn’s various outfits, from her sexually charged look in Suicide Squad to her more self-expressive and practical ensembles in Birds of Prey and The Suicide Squad, the films have showcased the power of costume design in narrating a character’s personal transformation.
Each phase of Harley Quinn’s wardrobe not only reflects changes in her storyline but also mirrors broader shifts in the portrayal of female characters in cinema. From the overtly sexualized attire of her early appearances to the more nuanced, empowering costumes in later films, Harley’s evolving style highlights the potential for costuming to enhance and deepen a character’s narrative.
Thus, despite the DCEU’s broader shortcomings, it stands as a testament to the impactful role that thoughtful costume design can play in storytelling, offering a vivid representation of how a character’s journey can be visually communicated through their attire.