Barolo wine, often hailed as the “King of Italian Wines,” boasts the prestigious title of being Italy’s first wine to receive DOCG designation. It must exclusively be crafted from the Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Piedmont region of northern Italy. Who exactly is this Nebbiolo grape, and how does it manage to produce Italy’s revered “wine of kings”? Let’s take a journey through its history and present incarnation.
Origin of Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo is one of Italy’s outstanding red grape varieties, renowned for producing wines that are complex, delicate, and possess strong aging potential. References to Nebbiolo date back to as early as 1268, when it was known as Nibiol. Records from the 13th and 14th centuries indicate that Nebbiolo was one of the oldest and most widely planted varieties in the Piedmont region. Its name has undergone various changes, such as “filagnos di vitibus neblorii” in 1292, “nebiolo” in 1295, and “nebiolus” in 1304, among others.
To explore the origins of Nebbiolo, DNA testing has revealed that it shares at least eight parent-offspring relationships with varieties from the Piedmont and Valtellina regions. It is likely a descendant of certain lost varieties or a parent to many others. Given its presence in both Piedmont and Valtellina, it can be inferred that Nebbiolo might have originated from either of these regions.
Clonal Varieties of Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo boasts a long history of cultivation and has numerous clonal varieties, with the three most significant being:
Lampia: The most widely cultivated and considered the highest quality.
Michet: A variety that evolved from Lampia after being infected with grapevine stem bifurcation virus.
Bolla: Produces wines with lighter color, higher yields, and varying quality, but its importance has diminished over time.
Nebbiolo Rosé has been proven not to be a clonal variety of Nebbiolo. It is a unique variety that yields aromatic wines with lighter color and body compared to the aforementioned varieties.
Why is Nebbiolo Called “Fog Grape”?
Nebbiolo also bears the distinctive alias “Fog Grape,” which evokes a sense of enigma. But where does this name come from? The truth is…
“Nebbiolo” originates from the Italian word “Nebbia,” which means fog.
Nebbiolo grapes ripen late and are often harvested during cold, foggy weather.
During ripening, Nebbiolo grapes develop a thick white bloom on their skins, resembling a layer of fog.
Characteristics of Nebbiolo Variety
Nebbiolo has thin skin, resulting in wines with a lighter color. However, its tough skin offers good resistance to frost and disease. The berries are small but robust, blooming early and ripening late. They are full of vitality and thrive in calcareous marl soils.
Unfortunately, the Piedmont region frequently experiences heavy autumn fog, which makes it challenging for Nebbiolo to reach optimal ripeness. Winemakers hope for the fog to dissipate early, but nature doesn’t always comply. Consequently, Nebbiolo is planted in the most suitable locations: facing south, shielded from excess wind, and on mid-slope terrains (at altitudes of 250–450 meters).
These considerations address Nebbiolo’s late-ripening nature: facing south ensures more warmth and sunlight, minimal wind prevents cold drafts that slow down maturation, and mid-slope positioning ensures proper drainage and ventilation. Clearly, Nebbiolo is quite demanding.
Types and Styles of Nebbiolo Wines
Typically, Nebbiolo is crafted into single-varietal wines. These wines tend to have lighter color, high levels of tannins and acidity, and elevated alcohol content. Angelo Gaja, the owner of Italy’s esteemed Gaja winery, even says, “If you want to love Nebbiolo, you have to love tannins.”
Compared to many other red grape varieties, Nebbiolo wines tend to transition to shades of orange-red more quickly as they age in the bottle. They also emanate unforgettable aromas of tar, roses, cherries, licorice, and vanilla. In general, they exude masculine energy with explosive characteristics, demanding lengthy maturation to reach their peak. Summing up its attributes, Robert Parker once remarked, “This wine is strong-willed and unbending, with very intense tannins. When it is young, it can be difficult to approach and is quite untamed.”
Of course, in some Italian regions, Nebbiolo is blended with small quantities of local varieties. While not as robust and concentrated as Barolo, these blends offer elegant aromas.
Nebbiolo is like a veiled beauty (akin to its “Fog Grape” moniker), tempting us to lift the veil and discover its seven parts wildness and three parts tenderness. It’s also like a silent king, enduring and everlasting, its immortal regal character eventually crowning it at the pinnacle of Italian wines.
Nebbiolo: Wine Regions
1. Italy
Nebbiolo, in Italy’s Piedmont, is akin to Pinot Noir in Burgundy, France. The wines Barolo and Barbaresco are both crafted from Nebbiolo, with Barolo earning the esteemed reputation of “King of Wines, Wine of Kings.” According to official data, in 2012, Nebbiolo covered 4,476 hectares in Italy, primarily planted in the Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero regions of Piedmont.
The areas highlighted in red circles on the map are important Nebbiolo-producing regions, which will be discussed further.
Historical Notes on Italian Nebbiolo
1303: Canale d’Alba in the Roero region first accurately mentions Nebbiolo in 1303.
1304: Petrus de Crescentiis clearly notes the delightful and excellent quality of Nebbiolo wine.
1431: Public regulations in La Morra in 1431 reaffirm the early recognition of high-quality Nebbiolo. The regulations included fines for those who arbitrarily cut Nebbiolo vines, with repeat offenders facing penalties like cutting off their right hand or even death by hanging.
Modern Expression of Italian Nebbiolo
Piedmont meticulously selects planting sites for Nebbiolo, with strict limits on yields, rarely exceeding 12.5 million liters — just 3% of the region’s total wine production and less than 1/15 of the annual Barbera wine production. Over the years, Nebbiolo has demonstrated its finest expression in the limestone soils of northern and southern Alba, located on the right bank of the Tanaro River (south-facing slopes). Here, Nebbiolo wines display the most complex aromas, excellent flavor concentration, and a delicate balance of higher acidity and tannins.
Nebbiolo from the hills of Sesia River, spanning Navara and Vercelli, is used to produce quality wines. Here, Nebbiolo is called Spanna and is often blended with the softer Vespolina or Bonarda grapes.
In Alba, the Nebbiolo used in Nebbiolo d’Alba wines is a gentler variant, mainly grown in the sandy soils of the Roero region on the left bank of the Tanaro River. Wines from the 1990s were exceptional, with a lighter style and less aging potential compared to Barolo and Barbaresco.
Nebbiolo also plays a significant role in DOC wines like Carema, Donnaz, and Lombardia, at the intersections of Valle d’Aosta, with limited production areas and cooler climates. Wines here exhibit moderate body, tight tannins, and prominent acidity. In warmer years, grapes reach better maturity, enhancing overall wine quality.
Most Iconic Wines Crafted from Nebbiolo: Barolo and Barbaresco
These two wines occupy two of the five most renowned and classic Italian wine categories. Notably, Barolo and Barbaresco refer to both the wines and their respective wine regions. They both hold the DOCG classification. Over the last decade, Robert Parker’s scores have generally been higher for Barolo, contributing to its higher prices.
Classification of Barolo’s Vineyards
Influenced by Burgundy’s classification system, Barolo classified its vineyards into three different versions to regulate wine quality. Today, there are 13 recognized top vineyards in Barolo, distributed across five winemaking villages:
La Morra: A more “feminine” style, gentle, delicate, elegant aromas. Notable vineyards: Cerequio and Rocche dell’Annunziata.
Barolo: Traditional style, full-bodied yet not overly heavy, strong aging potential. Notable vineyards: Brunate, Cannubi, and Sarmassa.
Castiglione Falletto: Deep-colored wines, powerful tannins, thick body, strong aging potential. Notable vineyards: Monprivato, Villero, and Castiglione Roche.
Serralunga d’Alba: Intense tannins, elegance, and smoothness. Notable vineyards: Lazzarito and Vigna Rionda.
Monforte d’Alba: Powerful in youth, graceful and charming with age. Notable vineyards: Bussia, Ginestra, Santo Stefano di Perno.
Traditional and Modern Styles of Barolo
Many top traditional-style Barolos are known for their longevity. This is because they undergo extended maceration during the winemaking process, sometimes resulting in tannins that haven’t fully matured and require a long period of aging to soften (often in large Slovenian oak barrels). This extended aging can lead to a certain degree of oxidation, which explains why traditional Barolo wines can exhibit a strong tannic structure even when they have a garnet or brick-red color.
On the other hand, modern-style Barolos reduce maceration time, utilize low-temperature fermentation, and are often aged in small French oak barrels. Their aging period is also shorter than traditional styles, resulting in a smoother and more approachable style. However, nowadays, producers determine which type of oak barrel to use based on the desired style, vintage, and vineyard, often employing both types of oak barrels in a single winery.
Italy’s Most Expensive Wine: Traditional Barolo Made from Nebbiolo!
According to the globally renowned wine price comparison website WS, the most expensive Italian wine is Giacomo Conterno’s Monfortino Barolo Riserva, produced by the Conterno winery. The Conterno estate has always been one of the most prestigious wineries in the Barolo region, known for adhering to traditional winemaking methods. This wine represents the pinnacle of traditional-style Barolo. Previously, Barolo wines were considered suitable for consumption only when young. It wasn’t until 1920 that the estate owner decided to create a Barolo with significant aging potential. By prolonging maceration and aging the wine in large, old oak casks, he created the famous Monfortino.
Barbaresco Wine Styles and Vineyards
Barbaresco has less vineyard area compared to Barolo, and its renowned vineyards are situated on the foothills. Generally, the vineyards here are located at lower altitudes with higher temperatures than those of Barolo. Harvests are usually earlier as well. Barbaresco consists of three main villages: Neive, Barbaresco, and Treiso.
Neive: Wines from Neive’s vineyards are full-bodied with strong tannins and rich structure. Notable vineyards include Bricco di Neive and Santo Stefano.
Barbaresco: Wines are known for their tight structure, intense floral aromas, lighter color, and body. Notable vineyards include Asili and Sori Tildin.
Treiso: Nebbiolo wines from Treiso are often elegant and fragrant. Important vineyards include Pajore and Roncagliette.
Traditional and Modern Styles of Barbaresco
Compared to Barolo, Barbaresco is characterized by its feminine elegance. It also has both traditional and modern styles:
Traditional: Before the 1970s, Barbaresco was typically crafted through delayed harvesting, extended maceration, and endless aging in large barrels. This created a style with dense tannins and a robust mouthfeel. The rules were established by French winemaker Louis Oudart, who experimented with Nebbiolo at the Conte di Neive estate.
Modern: As consumers increasingly valued “fruitiness” as a quality indicator, modern winemaking techniques arose. These include selecting the optimal harvest time, fermenting in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, reducing maceration time, decreasing new oak barrel usage, and shortening aging time. Modern-style wines tend to be more aromatic, with jam-like concentrated flavors complemented by delicate leafy notes and, at times, hints of mushrooms and truffles. They are more suitable for early consumption.
Barolo and Barbaresco Wine Prices
Typically, entry-level Barolo or Barbaresco wines can be found at retail prices of around 300–400 RMB. For well-reputed wineries, retail prices of 900 RMB or even over 1,000 RMB are common, and special vineyards command even higher prices. Notably famous brands like Gaja and Bruno Giacosa may reach prices of two to three thousand RMB for their flagship Barbaresco and Barolo wines. Looking for more cost-effective Nebbiolo wines? Keep reading.
High-Value Nebbiolo Regions in Piedmont
Apart from Barolo and Barbaresco, there are other relatively high-value Nebbiolo-producing regions in Piedmont (all DOCG regions), such as:
Roero: This is another Nebbiolo wine DOCG region apart from Barolo and Barbaresco. The wines are usually composed of 95%-100% Nebbiolo grapes, with the remaining portion being local non-aromatic grapes. They require 18 months of aging before release. These wines typically feature black fruit, cherry, and tobacco flavors, with strong tannins and a medium body. Their aging potential is not as strong as Barolo and Barbaresco.
Ghemme: With an area of only 85 hectares, red wines must be made from at least 75% Nebbiolo grapes and can be blended with up to 25% Vespolina or Bonarda. They require over 36 months of aging before release, with at least 20 months in oak barrels and 9 months in the bottle. The higher-level “Riserva” requires over 48 months of aging, with at least 24 months in oak barrels and 9 months in the bottle. The style is similar to Barolo, with high acidity and strong tannins, capable of aging up to 30 years.
Gattinara: Located further north, Gattinara is one of the coolest regions in Piedmont. The Nebbiolo grapes produced here tend to have higher acidity, often requiring the addition of Vespolina or Bonarda to balance the acidity. In good vintages, these wines exhibit flavors of violets, roasted almonds, and dried roses. They feature full tannins, strong structure, and a blend of strength and elegance.
2. Nebbiolo Performance Outside Piedmont, Italy
Apart from Piedmont, only a quarter of global Nebbiolo plantings are found elsewhere in Italy. However, Nebbiolo has piqued the interest of many growers worldwide.
In the Languedoc region of southern France, the renowned Mas de Daumas Gassac winery, often referred to as “Lafite of the Languedoc,” has 25 rows of Nebbiolo vines used for producing their top-tier blended red wine. Nebbiolo is also planted in Switzerland, Austria, and a few other countries.
In California, there are around 61 hectares of Nebbiolo planted, primarily established before the 2000s. These vineyards are concentrated in AVAs like Paso Robles, Santa Cruz Mountains, and Sierra Foothills. Smaller plantings exist in drier regions like Washington State, Oregon, and Tennessee.
In Argentina, there are approximately 176 hectares of Nebbiolo planted as of 2008, mainly in San Juan and Mendoza. Chile has around 9 hectares, with Botalcura being the sole winery bottling and selling Nebbiolo wine.
In Australia, Nebbiolo has gained recognition and is increasingly valued. It was first planted in the Hunter Valley in the early 1980s and later excelled in King Valley, Victoria, in the late 1980s. The first bottle of Australian Nebbiolo was produced by the Brown Brothers in 1990. Other regions like Adelaide Hills and Langhorne Creek have also adopted Nebbiolo plantings. Some vineyards with cooler climates and longer growing seasons have found success. In 2008, Australia had a total of 106 hectares of Nebbiolo plantings, with 84 wineries growing and producing wines.
Nebbiolo is also planted in Canada’s British Columbia, Mexico, New Zealand, and South Africa, although in small quantities.
Similarities and Differences between Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir
Renowned wine expert Jancis Robinson once said, “If Pinot Noir is the most seductive red grape variety in the world, then Nebbiolo must be the runner-up, with some extremely similar features.” People often compare these two internationally, but the truth is…
Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir have both developed and thrived in specific regions over centuries, and they truly shine in their respective terroirs. Of course, this doesn’t mean they can’t adapt to other regions, but their performance would be significantly diminished.
Both are red grape varieties with small berries and thin skins. They have numerous clones and demand specific soil and environmental conditions in their growing regions. They exhibit a strong ability to express different terroirs, which explains why both have been classified into top vineyard designations.
Pinot Noir ripens early and is generally suited for moderate to cool climates. Extreme heat or cold can prevent the fruit from reaching ideal ripeness. In contrast, Nebbiolo is a late-ripening variety that thrives when planted on south or southwest-facing slopes, ensuring it receives sufficient sunlight for ripening.
In terms of wine style, there are distinct differences between the two. Nebbiolo produces dry red wines with robust tannins, deep color, and heavy body. Its mouthfeel is usually powerful and strong. On the other hand, Pinot Noir is a representative of dry red wines with lower tannins, lighter color, and body. Its mouthfeel tends to be delicate and complex.
Pinot Noir, known as the “Queen of Red Grapes,” is one of the most popular red grape varieties globally. It performs well not only in Burgundy, France, but also in regions like Baden in Germany, Central Otago in New Zealand, California, and Australia.
While Nebbiolo has limited plantings in regions like California and Australia, it remains most famous in the Piedmont area of Italy, especially in Barolo and Barbaresco.
Drinking and Food Pairing with Nebbiolo Wine
Some say Nebbiolo can be challenging to enjoy when young. Apart from its inherent high acidity and strong tannins, part of the reason might be that the wine hasn’t been properly aerated. Moreover, there are also many modern styles of Nebbiolo that are more approachable. In any case, before drinking a bottle of Nebbiolo wine, it’s best to let it breathe for 1–2 hours, allowing the wine to come into contact with air and soften the tannins (older vintages might just need decanting without much aeration). The recommended serving temperature is 16–18°C.
Due to its robust tannins and delicate aromas, Nebbiolo wine pairs well with fatty meats like steak, roasted turkey, Italian cured ham, game meats, as they help to soften the wine’s tannins. Local truffles are a perfect match, and it can also be paired with roast goose, dark chocolate, and cheese. Additionally, the wine’s high acidity makes it a perfect match for foods with moderate acidity, such as dishes with vinegar-based sauces.