Riesling: Germany’s Treasured Grape Variety

VINOTANO
13 min readAug 26, 2023

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Origin of Riesling

Riesling is one of Germany’s oldest grape varieties, with records dating back to 1435 documenting its cultivation in the Rheingau region. Currently, there is no definitive consensus regarding the exact origin of Riesling. Many scholars believe that Riesling may have originated in the Rheingau region, while others suggest it could have originated in areas like Alsace, as records from 1348 mention the growth of Riesling in Alsace.

In 1998, DNA testing revealed that Gouais Blanc is a parent grape variety of Riesling. Gouais Blanc is one of the oldest grape varieties in Western Europe and shares genetic relationships with other grape varieties like Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Elbling, and Furmint.

Distinction between Riesling and Other Varieties like Welsh Riesling

Riesling is often mistaken for being the same as other varieties like Welschriesling, Riesling Italico, Clare Riesling, Cape Riesling, and Gray Riesling. In reality, there is no connection between them.

The name for Riesling varies in each country. It’s called Rhine Riesling in Australia, Weisser Riesling in South Africa, and Johannisberg Riesling in California.

Characteristics of Riesling

Riesling is an aromatic white grape variety known for its high acidity, cold and frost resistance, making it a preferred choice for cool-climate regions. It has vigorous growth and vitality, maintaining high grape quality even at yields as high as 10 tons per hectare. Riesling grapes are small and tend to ripen later in cool climates, making them susceptible to noble rot (Botrytis).

In warmer climates, Riesling matures earlier, resulting in wines that are often less complex. In colder regions, Riesling has a long ripening period, allowing for the production of dry, sweet, noble rot, and ice wines. These wines exhibit concentrated fruity flavors, balanced acidity, and complex aromas such as floral, citrus, honey, and mineral notes. The high acidity also contributes to excellent aging potential.

Riesling wines generally have lower alcohol content, light body, and delicate structure. They are not typically aged in oak barrels, making them some of the world’s most refined white wines. With bottle aging, Riesling develops intricate aromas, primarily derived from compound TDN (trimethyldihydronaphthalene). TDN, a derivative of norisoprenoid, adds complexity to the wine. After 2–3 years of bottle aging, TDN content increases, resulting in a kerosene-like aroma.

Classic Riesling Wine Types

Due to its wide range of harvest times and susceptibility to noble rot, Riesling can be crafted into four main types: dry white, late-harvest sweet white, noble rot, and ice wine.

Dry White: Exhibiting intense lemon and citrus aromas, dry Riesling wines have a delicate and refined palate. German Riesling from regions like Clare Valley and Eden Valley in Australia are particularly famous. Alsace in France, as well as Austrian regions like Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal, also produce high-quality dry Rieslings. In Germany, dry Riesling is often labeled as “Trocken.”

Late-Harvest Sweet White: Riesling grapes are left on the vine to dry and concentrate before being harvested for late-harvest sweet wines. These wines feature captivating floral, peach, citrus, and honey aromas, along with elegant and delicate flavors. The presence of residual sugar and balanced high acidity makes them suitable for aging. Notable types include German Spätlese and Auslese.

Noble Rot: Riesling’s susceptibility to noble rot results in wines with notes of acacia flowers, elderflowers, and fruits. They also carry rich aromas of nuts, dried fruits, honey, and vanilla. These wines have significant aging potential and can be stored for over a century. Renowned examples are German and Austrian Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese, as well as Alsace’s Selection de Grains Nobles (SGN).

Ice Wine: Riesling grapes are left on the vine until they freeze at temperatures around -7 to -8°C (19.4 to 17.6°F) before being harvested for ice wine production. Ice wines showcase intense honey and floral aromas, with a sweet and captivating palate. They possess substantial aging potential. Notable examples include German and Austrian ice wines.

Riesling: Wine Regions

1. Germany

Riesling is considered a “national treasure” grape variety in Germany. From the late 19th century to the mid-20th century, German Riesling received widespread acclaim, and its cultivation area continued to expand. However, during the 1960s, when heavy-bodied and oaked wines gained global popularity, Riesling faced a decline, and wine quality became inconsistent. By the end of the 20th century, German Riesling wines regained their prominence, with a total cultivation area of around 23,000 hectares. Riesling is grown and crafted into dry, sweet, late-harvest, and ice wines in various German regions, such as Mosel, Rheinhessen, Rheingau, Pfalz, Nahe, and Württemberg.

Mosel: Mosel is one of the highest-quality Riesling regions in Germany. Its vineyards are situated on steep south-facing slopes with unique slate soils that absorb solar heat and reflect sunlight, allowing Riesling grapes to ripen fully. Additionally, the morning mist from the Mosel River, combined with ample sunlight during the day, creates an ideal environment for noble rot wines. The Riesling cultivation area in Mosel is around 5,400 hectares. Wines produced here often exhibit flinty and mineral flavors, have a light body, high acidity, and a refreshing, non-cloying taste.

Prominent Estates: Weingut Egon Müller, Weingut Willi Schaefer, Martin Kerpen. Weingut Egon Müller’s Rieslings are revered as the “King of German Rieslings.” Their Trockenbeerenauslese and ice wines are especially precious, with the market value of a regular bottle of ice wine from a new vintage exceeding 1,000 euros, making them Germany’s most expensive ice wines. The Trockenbeerenauslese wines also command astonishingly high prices at annual auctions.

Rheingau: Rheingau is another premier Riesling region in Germany, often mentioned alongside Mosel. Although its vineyard area is smaller, around 2,500 hectares, over 80% of the vines are Riesling. Most of the vineyards are located in towns like Assmannshausen and Wiesbaden on the north bank of the Rhine, facing south to fully embrace sunlight. Compared to Mosel, Rheingau Rieslings are more robust, refined, and fuller-bodied.

Prominent Estates: Schloss Johannisberg, Robert Weil, Schloss Schönborn, Georg Breuer, Weingut Josef Leitz

Rheinhessen: Situated in the Rhine Valley, bordering the Nahe River to the west and the Rhine River to the north and east, Rheinhessen is Germany’s largest wine-producing region. The soil mainly consists of red sandstone. The Riesling wines produced here range from table wines to sparkling wines, often displaying delicate aromas of citrus and peach, with hints of subtlety. They also possess considerable aging potential.

The most famous export wine from Rheinhessen is “Liebfrauenmilch,” produced in nearly 99% of the 167 villages in the region, accounting for 50% of Germany’s total imported wines.

Prominent Estates: Blue Nun, a wine brand created by the historic Sichel winery with over 200 years of history in 1921. It was once the largest wine brand by exports from Germany, popular worldwide from the 1950s to the 1980s. However, today Blue Nun has become associated with lower quality and lower prices.

Pfalz: The Riesling cultivation area in Pfalz is approximately 5,500 hectares, accounting for around 20% of the total vineyard area in the region. While Riesling holds a significant position in Pfalz, this region is located near the Alsace area of France and boasts a relatively mild climate with ample sunlight. As a result, the Riesling wines produced here are fuller-bodied than those from Mosel, with alcohol content reaching around 12%. These wines exhibit a more opulent style, though they may lack some of the delicacy and finesse found in other regions.

Prominent Estates: Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Weingut Bürklin-Wolf, Okonomierat Rebholz, Muller-Catoir

Nahe: The Nahe region features diverse microclimates and geographical variations. While Riesling accounts for only about one-fourth of the total vineyard area in this region, the resulting Riesling wines are known for their exceptional balance. Nahe might not be as well-known as some other regions, but its late-harvest sweet Rieslings are highly regarded for their quality.

Prominent Estates: Weingut Dönnhoff, Schlossgut Diel, Schäfer-Fröhlich

2. France

Alsace: Alsace is the only region in France where Riesling is designated as a legally permitted grape variety for winemaking. Riesling is also the most widely planted grape variety in Alsace, covering approximately 3,400 hectares, which is about 20% of the total vineyard area. Alsace features a cool continental climate, with a lengthy ripening period for grapes during the autumn. Abundant sunshine, low rainfall, and rich soils provide the foundation for crafting top-quality Riesling wines.

In contrast to the light-bodied Rieslings of Germany, Alsace is renowned for its dry Riesling white wines. These wines are incredibly aromatic, extremely dry on the palate, high in alcohol content, full-bodied, and possess high acidity. They also exhibit distinct mineral notes that unmistakably reflect the terroir of the region. Additionally, Alsace’s dry climate minimizes the risk of rot for Riesling grapes, ensuring their full ripening potential. This environment has also contributed to the production of high-quality late-harvest dessert wines known as “Vendange Tardive” and individually selected botrytized sweet wines.

Prominent Estates: Hugel & Fils, Maison Trimbach, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

3. Austria

Austria is among the few countries capable of producing high-quality Riesling wines. The Riesling cultivation area in Austria is around 1,900 hectares, making it the second-largest white grape variety in the country. Riesling wines from Austria are mostly dry, characterized by their unique and refined flavors. They represent some of the most elegant wines in the country. In Austria, Riesling is also used to craft noble sweet wines affected by noble rot (“Botrytis”) and ice wines. The most renowned regions for these wines are the Wachau Valley in Lower Austria, as well as the nearby Kamptal, Kremstal, and Burgenland.

Wachau Valley: Riesling is the second-largest white grape variety in the Wachau region. Most of it is cultivated on steep slopes at high elevations, with soils predominantly composed of poor schist and granite. Riesling wines from the Wachau area are lighter in body compared to Grüner Veltliner wines, with a more lush mouthfeel and a pronounced, authentic acidity. The aromas of Riesling wines from this region are highly complex, featuring scents of elderflower and apple blossoms, as well as ripe peach and zesty orange, culminating in a lingering saline-mineral finish.

Kamptal and Kremstal: These regions produce wines that are similar in quality and style to those of the Wachau Valley, but prices are usually more budget-friendly.

Burgenland: Situated in the southeastern part of Austria and bordering Hungary, Burgenland produces outstanding sweet Riesling wines, including BA, TBA noble sweet wines, and ice wines.

Prominent Estates: Weingut Kracher, Brundlmayer, Hirtzberger, Schloss Gobelsburg

4. Hungary: The planting area of Riesling in Hungary is approximately 1,300 hectares, mainly concentrated in regions such as Kunsag, Csongrad, and Tolna in the southern part of the country. Riesling in Hungary is used to produce both dry and sweet wines.

Prominent Estates: Bussay Winery, Otto Legli, Jozsef Szentesi

5. Italy:The planting area of Riesling in Italy is only around 600 hectares, mainly concentrated in the cooler regions of Alto Adige and Friuli. Riesling wines from Alto Adige are aromatic and captivating, very refined, and significantly different in style from most other white wines produced in Italy. Riesling wines from Friuli also exhibit excellent quality.

Prominent Estates: Kuenhof di Peter Pliger, Schwanburg, Jermann

6. Spain: The planting area of Riesling in Spain is very small, around 100 hectares, mainly concentrated in regions like Catalunya and Castilla-La Mancha. Riesling wines from Spain lack the finesse and refinement compared to countries like Germany and Austria, resulting in lower international recognition.

7. Other European Countries

Czech Republic: The planting area of Riesling is around 1,200 hectares, primarily grown in the Morava region in the south and southeastern provinces. The quality of Riesling wines produced is quite remarkable.

Slovakia: Located north of Austria and characterized by a continental climate, Slovakia has a planting area of around 1,000 hectares for Riesling. The produced wines are of high quality; for instance, the renowned German winery Egon Muller produces excellent Riesling wines in Slovakia.

Slovenia: Riesling has a planting area of around 700 hectares, mainly concentrated in the Stajerska Slovenija and Prekmurje regions.

Croatia: Riesling is the sixth-largest planted grape variety in Croatia, with a total planting area of around 1,100 hectares.

Republic of Moldova: The planting area of Riesling is around 1,300 hectares, and the quality of the produced wines is relatively ordinary.

8. Australia

In the early 19th century, European immigrants seeking refuge from persecution settled near the Barossa Valley and brought Riesling with them. The planting area of Riesling in Australia is approximately 4,400 hectares, making it the most famous white grape variety after Chardonnay. Riesling thrives in the climates of nearby Clare Valley and Eden Valley. Dry Riesling wines from these regions are of the highest quality and can rival those from Germany.

Clare Valley: Located just an hour’s drive from the Barossa Valley, most vineyards are concentrated at elevations of 200–500 meters. The warm and slightly hot summer climate is balanced by cool afternoon breezes, extending the ripening period. This climate is beneficial for the maturity and retention of Riesling’s phenolic compounds and acidity, resulting in wines with body and complexity. Clare Valley Riesling is known for its vibrant lemon and citrus aromas and invigorating acidity. While young, these wines can be mouth-puckeringly acidic yet incredibly tempting. After aging for 5–6 years, the pronounced acidity softens, resulting in a balanced and smooth taste.

Eden Valley: It is the first region in Australia where Riesling was planted, and it remains a primary grape variety there. Riesling from Eden Valley often displays intense aromas of citrus fruits, alluring floral notes, and hints of minerals. The wines are full-bodied, delicate, and refreshing. With aging, Eden Valley Riesling develops flavors of jams, baking spices, and elderflowers, reaching its peak after about 10 years.

Prominent Estates: Grosset Winery, situated in the southern end of Clare Valley, is one of Australia’s most outstanding wineries. Grosset’s Riesling is a benchmark for top-tier Australian white wines. The winery employs organic cultivation methods, handpicks grapes when they reach optimal ripeness, and preserves the original characteristics of the grapes, resulting in internationally acclaimed and uniquely styled wines.

9. United States

Riesling is cultivated throughout the United States, including states like California, Oregon, Washington, and New York. Each region exhibits variations in Riesling styles.

California: The planting area of Riesling is around 1,500 hectares. Many Riesling wines from this region are light-bodied, but some estates produce exceptionally delicate Riesling wines with strong aging potential. Notable examples include Chateau Montelena and Smith Madrone in Napa Valley, and Dashe Cellars and Esterlina in Mendocino County.

Oregon: The cool and cloudy climate is ideal for Riesling, with a planting area of about 340 hectares. Riesling wines from Oregon have intense fruity aromas and complex, delicate flavors. However, Riesling does not hold a strong position in the international market within Oregon compared to Pinot Noir.

Washington: Known for its exceptional Riesling production, Washington has a planting area of about 2,560 hectares in 2011, a significant increase from 770 hectares in 1999. Riesling wines from Washington exhibit rich fruit aromas, refined texture, and can be produced in dry, off-dry, and sweet styles.

New York: The planting area of Riesling is around 270 hectares, with most wines being of the sweet style and of high quality.

10. Canada

Canada is also a significant region for Riesling ice wines. The accidental invention of ice wine dates back to 1794 in Franconia, Germany, and eventually, conscious production of ice wine began in the Rheingau region in the 19th century. Thus, Canada is considered the birthplace of Riesling ice wine. In addition to ice wine, Riesling is also crafted into dry white wines, known for their delicate acidity.

11. New Zealand

The planting area of Riesling in New Zealand was around 490 hectares in 2001, but it has since grown to approximately 920 hectares. Riesling is the third-largest grape variety in New Zealand after Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Riesling wines from New Zealand come in dry, off-dry, and sweet styles, with Marlborough and Nelson being prominent regions. The late-harvest sweet Riesling wines from New Zealand have gained international recognition.

Prominent Estates: Dry River, Forrest Estate, Framingham, Palliser Estate

12. Argentina

The planting area of Riesling in Argentina is only around 110 hectares, mainly concentrated in the Mendoza region. The high-altitude climate in Mendoza is suitable for Riesling cultivation, but overall, the quality of Riesling wines in Argentina is relatively ordinary, lacking prominent acidity and refinement.

13 Chile

Chile has limited Riesling cultivation, with a planting area of around 30 hectares. Most of these vineyards are in the Bio Bio Valley, including Cono Sur Winery, and near Santiago, including Cousino Macul Winery.

14. South Africa

The planting area of Riesling in South Africa is around 220 hectares, mainly concentrated in Stellenbosch and Robertson. Premium Riesling wines often come from very cold regions such as Constantia, Elgin, and Swartberg.

Significance of Innovation in the Past 20 Years

Increased Focus on Dry White Wines: Many wineries have realized that sweeter Rieslings are not necessarily better. Instead, dry Riesling wines are being emphasized to showcase the variety’s characteristics and terroir.

Emphasis on Crafting Reserve Wines: Reserve wines can be either dry or off-dry, often featuring intense fruit aromas, delicate textures, and lower alcohol content. Rowald Hepp from Schloss Vollrads Winery states, “The lower alcohol content of reserve wines brings a pleasant sensation, allowing the flavors of food to shine through. It offers consumers authenticity, enjoyment, and the distinctiveness of the variety and vintage.” Nowadays, reserve wines are gaining popularity among young consumers.

Elevating the Quality of Riesling Sekts: Germany’s Sekt, a sparkling wine, is globally popular. More wineries are aiming to produce high-quality traditional-method Sekts.

Experimenting with Oak Aging: Weingut von Winning was among the first to age Riesling wines in oak barrels in 2008. Many wineries are now experimenting with this method to create Riesling wines with more pronounced aromas and complex textures.

Enhancing the Quality of Premium Sweet Rieslings: Germany’s highest-quality sweet Rieslings fall into three categories: BA, TBA, and Eiswein (ice wine). Nowadays, many wineries are dedicated to improving the quality of individually selected wines and other sweet styles. Markus Molitor’s individually selected wines, for example, have received a perfect score from Robert Parker.

Riesling Wine Pairing

Dry Riesling: Best consumed at temperatures of 10–12°C, it pairs well with seafood, sushi, vegetable salads. Aged dry Rieslings match well with delicate seafood dishes.

Late Harvest Sweet Riesling: Best enjoyed at temperatures of 8–10°C, it pairs well with spicy dishes, fruit platters, lobster, scallops, fish, avocado, crab, foie gras, and goat cheese.

Noble Sweet Riesling and Ice Wine: Ideal consumption temperature is 6–8°C, and it pairs well with desserts like cheese, apple pie, and caramel sweets.

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