The Origin of the Zinfandel Grape
Zinfandel is a red grape variety originating from Croatia, known as “Tribidrag” in Croatia and “Zinfandel” in the United States. The origin of Zinfandel is a topic of debate, with many Americans believing it to be a native variety, while others think it was introduced to California by grape pioneer Agoston Haraszthy in the 1850s from Hungary. However, California historian Charles L. Sullivan revealed the path of Zinfandel’s introduction to California and pointed out that there were no records of Zinfandel in Haraszthy’s extensive promotional literature in the early 1860s. Before Haraszthy’s arrival in California in 1849, this variety was already somewhat famous on the East Coast of the United States.
In the 1820s, a grape grower named George Gibbs from Long Island, Eastern United States, brought the Zinfandel grape (likely not yet named as such) from the Imperial Nursery of Vienna, Austria, to his vineyard. In 1829, the name “Zinfardel” appeared in another vineyard catalog from Long Island. Over time, the name of the grape evolved from Zinfendal, Zinfindal, to Zinfendel, and eventually settled as Zinfandel, which first appeared in 1852 and gained recognition in 1860.
American Zinfandel = Italian Primitivo?
In 1967, Austin Goheen, a botanist from the United States Department of Agriculture, noticed the striking similarity between Italy’s Primitivo from the Puglia region and Zinfandel. He brought a similarly looking grapevine back to the University of California, Davis, and planted it next to Zinfandel. Both in terms of plant morphology and certain molecular components, Primitivo and Zinfandel showed remarkable consistency, leading to the idea that they might be the same variety.
By the late 1970s, some Italians labeled Primitivo grapes sold to the United States as Zinfandel. In 1985, the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (BATF) of the United States established that Zinfandel could not be used as a synonym for Primitivo. In 1994, DNA testing at the University of California, Davis confirmed that Zinfandel and Primitivo were indeed the same grape variety. In 1999, the European Union allowed Italian producers to use the name Zinfandel. The BATF expressed dissatisfaction with this decision but received no response. Later, DNA profiling revealed that both Zinfandel and Primitivo were highly similar to an ancient Croatian grape variety called Crljenak Kaštelanski, suggesting a common origin.
Characteristics of the Zinfandel Grape
Zinfandel grapes are high-yielding with thin skins and compact clusters of tightly packed berries, although berries on the same cluster can have different levels of ripeness. Zinfandel thrives in moderate climates rather than extremely hot ones. It grows particularly well on well-draining, poor, hilly soils, as excessive autumn rain can lead to the entire cluster rotting.
Types and Styles of Zinfandel Wine
Zinfandel is versatile, capable of producing aromatic dry reds, slightly sweet rosés, unusual sparkling wines, sweet wines, and fortified wines. However, it is best known for crafting dry, robust, and flavorful red wines (including old vines) and slightly sweet white Zinfandel wines. Dry red Zinfandel wines are generally aromatic with notes of blueberry, cherry, plum jam, along with hints of black pepper and licorice. They possess strong structure, high acidity, prominent tannins, distinctive flavors, and long finishes. White Zinfandel wine is peachy in color with intense fruit aromas, low alcohol, and a sweetness level ranging from off-dry to sweet, often offered at an affordable price.
It’s worth mentioning that white Zinfandel was first created by the Sutter Home winery in California. In the 1970s, Sutter Home began producing a lightly colored dry rosé wine using leftover juice from their red Zinfandel fermentation. Due to the market preference for white wines at the time, they named it “white Zinfandel.” In 1975, they experimented with a semi-sweet version using the interrupted fermentation method, which received a positive response from the market.
Zinfandel: Wine Regions
- USA
California
California is the largest cultivation area for Zinfandel, with approximately 20,000 hectares planted by 2012. As a result, Zinfandel has become the second-largest red grape variety in California, only trailing behind Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1849, during the California Gold Rush, many participants shifted towards farming, and Zinfandel became a vital crop. In the 1880s, Zinfandel played an indispensable role in California’s wine industry and was the preferred wine for many miners and beneficiaries of the California Gold Rush.
By the 20th century, Zinfandel’s cultivation area and status in California had matched that of Australia’s Shiraz. While Zinfandel might not have the same innate nobility as Shiraz, proper yield control, growth in cooler climates, and ensuring an extended growing season could result in high-quality wines. Moreover, many of California’s old-vine Zinfandel vineyards have yielded complex and excellent wines, once again proving this point.
California is renowned for its prolific production of full-bodied Zinfandel red wines, often characterized by intense berry and spice flavors. These wines also extend to include sweet White Zinfandel wines. The regions of Sonoma, Lodi, and Napa Valley house numerous old-vine Zinfandel vineyards, many of which were established by Italian immigrants and often grown in arid conditions. Apart from California, small amounts of Zinfandel are also cultivated in Washington State and Oregon. The following are representative Zinfandel regions in California:
Dry Creek Valley
Dry Creek Valley is a sub-region of Sonoma, located in the central-northern part of the Sonoma area, renowned for its Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon wines. The climate here is cooler, and some areas can be relatively humid. Zinfandel grapes are typically planted on higher slopes. The best vineyards have good drainage and are composed of gravel and red clay soils. Zinfandel vines aged between 35 to 100 years, resistant to root knot nematodes, produce the finest Zinfandel wines in Dry Creek Valley. Occasionally, it’s blended with Petite Sirah and Carignane.
Prominent Winery: Dry Creek Vineyard
Sonoma Valley
Situated in the southeastern part of Sonoma Valley, its eastern border is adjacent to Napa Valley. The Zinfandel grape is also well-known here, especially the old-vine Zinfandel. Many of these vines are over 100 years old, producing wines with concentrated flavors and distinct spiciness. The production volume is quite low. Some vineyards in this area also cultivate Zinfandel alongside Syrah and Carignane for blending purposes.
Prominent Winery: Ravenswood Winery, established in 1976. Its owner, Joel Peterson, is known as the “Godfather of American Zinfandel.” During the popularity of White Zinfandel in the 1970s, he remained dedicated to producing high-quality dry red Zinfandel wines. Later, Robert Parker also praised the Zinfandel wines from his winery.
Amador County
Amador County is a sub-region within the Sierra Foothills, located in the northeastern part of the Lodi wine region. The vineyards here are situated on an elevated plateau at altitudes ranging from 300 to 490 meters. Known for producing robust and powerful Zinfandel wines, this region benefits from warmer temperatures and lower elevations compared to other areas in the Sierra Foothills.
Prominent Winery: Renwood Winery
Russian River Valley
The Russian River Valley is located to the south of Dry Creek Valley. It enjoys cool weather with frequent fog, and in some hilly areas, there are many old Zinfandel vines brought by Italian immigrants. The Zinfandel wines produced here tend to have an elegant style.
Prominent Winery: Marimar Estate
Paso Robles
Paso Robles is situated inland in southern California. Since the 1980s, it has been producing Zinfandel wines with higher alcohol content and rich tannins. While Zinfandel plantings are not as extensive as varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Grenache, Zinfandel still holds significance in Paso Robles.
Prominent Winery: Eos Estate Winery
Lodi
Lodi is a high-quality region known for its old-vine Zinfandel. It is located in the central valley of California. The Mediterranean climate here, along with significant day-night temperature variations, allows the mature grapes to maintain natural acidity. Additionally, the grapevines are exposed to less rain during their growth period. The presence of large rocks in the soil contributes to the perfect ripening of Zinfandel grapes. Old-vine Zinfandel from Lodi often exhibits aromas of jam, blackberry, clove, and cedar. The wines have a full and mature taste, with a rich and concentrated flavor profile.
Prominent Winery: Oak Ridge Winery
2. Other Wine Regions
In France, Domaine de l’Arjolle is the only winery that cultivates Zinfandel grapes. This winery is located in the Languedoc region and produces a single varietal Zinfandel wine called “Cuvee Z.”
There are also small plantings of Zinfandel in western Canada, Mexico, and Israel. Additionally, Zinfandel is gaining recognition in Australia. It was once a specialty of Cape Mentelle Winery in Western Australia, and now wineries like Rusden Wines in South Australia utilize the warm and dry climate to produce high-quality Zinfandel wines. South Africa also has a limited amount of Zinfandel plantings, with representative wineries like Glen Garlou and Zevenwachet producing lighter-style wines.
Zinfandel and Primitivo
Primitivo’s Performance in Italy
Since Primitivo shares the same origin with Zinfandel, let’s explore its performance in Italy. Primitivo had a significant presence in Italy, with a planting area of 17,000 hectares in 1990. The planting area decreased afterward, reaching 7,951 hectares in 2000. However, Primitivo has since made a comeback in Italy and is not only used as a blending grape for boosting alcohol content. Most of the plantings are now in the Apulia region, especially in the western part of the Salento Peninsula. Wines produced from Primitivo grapes here are known for their intense fruit flavors, full-bodied and robust structure, and high alcohol content.
In the Primitivo di Manduria area, where the vineyards feature red soil with white limestone, many old-vine Primitivo plants thrive, producing wines with excellent structural complexity. In the Gioia del Colle mountain area and higher altitudes, more elegant-style Primitivo wines are crafted.
Prominent Winery: Morella Winery
Differences Between Zinfandel and Primitivo
Although genetically similar, their regional separation has led to distinct characteristics. Zinfandel grapes have thinner skins and tighter clusters, resulting in a slightly lighter color. In contrast, Primitivo tends to have a deeper color, more grape clusters, smaller and fewer berries, making it less prone to whole-cluster rot. Additionally, Zinfandel is known for its typical jammy flavors and high alcohol content, while Primitivo is relatively more restrained, leaner, and features lighter fruit notes. For instance, dried plum aromas are often found in Zinfandel wines, while ripe black fruit aromas are more common in Primitivo wines.
Zinfandel Wine Pairing
Zinfandel red wines exhibit a robust style, making them well-suited for pairing with barbecues and grilled meats. Aged vine Zinfandels with their intense and full-bodied profiles can be paired with rich and aromatic dishes. White Zinfandel can be paired with salads, less intensely flavored meats (chicken, pork, fish), heavily spiced Asian dishes, and Indian cuisine. Due to its inherent sweetness, creamy and sweet desserts also make a delightful choice.
Most Zinfandel red wines have alcohol content ranging from 14% to 17%, and they are best enjoyed at temperatures around 16–18°C. On the other hand, white Zinfandel is best served at temperatures of approximately 8–12°C.