Buccellati

Shelley
4 min readSep 22, 2023

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“The Buccellati style originates from its founder, my grandfather Mario, who left a profound mark on that style. Subsequently, each generation of heirs has applied the craftsmanship, design, and Buccellati style, while giving new interpretations to each piece in their own way, all while fully respecting the essence of the brand.”──Andrea Buccellati

Mario Buccellati was born in 1891 in Ancona. After his father’s death, he moved to Milan with other family members.

He later became an apprentice to the goldsmiths Beltrami and Besnati, where the young Mario learned the finest Italian craftsmanship and also gained an understanding of customer tastes.

Most importantly, Mario fully embodied the ‘Milanese spirit,’ exuding a careful and dignified elegance.

After World War I, Mario established his own company, taking over Beltrami and Besnati’s business, and opened his own store at 5 Via Santa Margherita.

Mario quickly gained fame for his works crafted from lace, gauze, or honeycomb patterns.

In 1925, Mario and his brother Carlo opened a second store on Via Condotti in Rome. Four years later, they opened a third store on Via Tornabuoni in Florence.

In 1940, due to wartime shortages of materials, Mario began using bronze alloy, a copper-based alloy, to craft exquisite items like cigarette cases, paperweights, and other ornate products, applying the same delicate craftsmanship as with precious metals when conditions improved.

Mario designed the Eternelle eternity ring as a symbol of everlasting love. The ring has no starting point and no endpoint, much like a circle, encompassing the radiance and preciousness of love within its circular form.

After the war, Mario’s three sons joined him in managing the company: Gianmaria took charge of creative work, while Lorenzo and Federico oversaw business expansion in Italy.

In 1951, Luca managed the brand’s operations in the United States and opened the first U.S. store on 51st Street.

During this period, ancient goldsmith techniques and engraving skills (telato, rigato, segrinato, and ornato) were elevated into artistic presentations, especially adorning cuff bracelets and beautiful accessories.

In 1956, Mario opened a seasonal pop-up shop on the famous Via Veneto in Palm Beach.

Shortly after Mario’s father passed away on May 5, 1965, the four brothers decided to open an important new store in the emerging Via Montenapoleone 4 in Milan.

Milanese photographer Maria Mulas signed one of the brand’s first advertising campaigns, featuring a blurred female figure creating space to showcase the jewelry.

In 1971, Gianmaria Buccellati opened his first boutique at the renowned Cala di Volpe hotel, a gem on the Emerald Coast.

In 1972, Gianmaria signed an exclusive agreement covering the entire Japanese region with WAKO Co. This Japanese company, headquartered in Tokyo’s Ginza, was a major importer of European luxury goods.

Buccellati is the only Italian company among the elite global jewelers to open a boutique on Place Vendôme in Paris.

Gianmaria dedicated one of the brand’s iconic collections, La Macri, to his fashionably elegant daughter, Maria Cristina.

Following the acquisition of the silverware company Clementi, Buccellati commissioned Helmut Newton to shoot an influential advertising campaign, introducing nine silver flatware collections.

France became Gianmaria’s second home, to the extent that the board of directors of the renowned French association ‘Haute Joaillerie de France’ renamed it ‘Haute Joaillerie en France.’

In 2000, the Washington Smithsonian Institution hosted an exhibition titled ‘Buccellati: Gold, Silver, and Gemstone Art.

Gianmaria expanded the Maison’s product range, creating a series of watches with the distinctive Buccellati style.

The boutique in Chicago, which opened in 2013, embraced the architectural concept conceived by Andrea Buccellati: warm and inviting tones, clean lines, minimalist decorations, and furnishings.

The Romanza collection, introduced in 2013, marked Lucrezia’s apprenticeship under her father Andrea in Maison’s creative endeavors.

In 2015, Buccellati launched the Opera collection, inspired by floral motifs from the Maison’s emblem and themes from the Renaissance era’s architecture.

In 2017, as part of an expansion plan developed in collaboration with the new Chinese investment partner Gangtai Holdings, Buccellati opened its first store in China at the Shanghai Long Plaza.

In 2019, to celebrate the foundation’s 100th anniversary, Buccellati created a series of Buccellati-cut diamonds, each product featuring unique characteristics.

In 2020, Buccellati joined the Richemont Group and swiftly restructured all its collections under one brand.

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