Dianna Daoheung on why she doesn’t cook Thai food and rebuilding her first shop after a fire

All photos by Black Seed Bagels Instagram

Dianna Daoheung wasn’t necessarily angling for bagel dominance when she set out to create Black Seed’s unique recipe. Her bagel combines the qualities of New York and Montreal varieties, retaining the crisp, glutinous chew of city bagels, while simultaneously exhibiting the honeyed sweetness and petite size of their north country rivals.

Yet her reinterpretation has transformed the humble shop into a veritable empire, with six stores in operation in New York, and a seventh appetizing store that will open in the fall. And though the executive chef and head baker has twice been nominated for a James Beard Award, in…

I realized I hadn’t, so I set out to ferment my own

Sumayya Ansari illustrations

I’d never even wondered what soy sauce was, really, until last summer, when I listened to Shunan Wang, the owner of Tea Drunk, wax rhapsodic about the complexities of the stuff, swooning over its citric notes as if it were a fine wine or whiskey.

At her beautiful shop in New York City, over tiny glasses of fresh Guapian, a green tea from Anhui Province, she regaled me with stories of the strange fermented delights she’d stumbled across during her adventures through China in search of tea: blocks of tofu inoculated with a mold that eventually left them swaddled in…

Wei Tchou

A writer in New York.

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