The Midlands — Derbyshire in words and pictures . . .

Wende McIlwain
5 min readOct 26, 2018

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Pride and Prejudice territory, which we have felt compelled to watch together with the family, with an eye out for now familiar landmarks. John is deeply pained by this urge . . .

Even all the years of Masterpiece Theater dramas have not prepared me for the sweep of the English countryside. I am quite besotted and will remain so as we continue to explore this fair isle’s towns and counties. Today was Borough Market and the Tate Modern, another walkabout, which will just have to wait for another telling . . . I am woefully behind.

Now, to our long weekend in the Derbyshire Midlands . . . unlike many travelers who read copiously, plan assiduously, and hit the ground with a carefully organized list of must dos and must see, we two can barely get packed and out of the house, and so arrive blank slates — not that anyone can truly approach London and environs a blank slate, it being such a storied country, woven so deeply into many of our imaginations and genes, at least mine, since my people come from Sheffield, England and Ireland, with some Portuguese thrown in to leaven the mix.

C&K chose a region for our first outing that they had not yet explored and thought offered something for everyone in the family — they were right again with C , the consummate planner, laying it all out artfully leaving lots of room for improvisation, and keeping our ultimate destination a secret . . .

About three hours out of the London the land began to roll, in a counterpane of earthy, green and brindle fields dotted with sheep and handsome cattle, climbing to considerable heights and bisected by endless, elegant stone walls, with which I have become totally infatuated. Must be a New England thing and the English roots . . .

What’s not to love about such a skillful, drystone wall construction with its crown of opposing pointed stones, a very regional detail
Mile after mile of them . . . some of which are more than 200 years old. The oldest of such walls are in Orkney, Scotland and date back 3.500 years. Now that’s a wall!

We soon arrived in the Peak District National Park, created in the 1950’s. As the first such park in England, it is a huge tract of land including dramatic ridges, deep valleys and stark moorland plateaus and grazing pastures attracting native Brits and tourists alike.

We had fine weather and were definitely ready to stretch our legs after three and half hours in the car. One step at a time, many of them bearing fossil remains . . .

The Hat takes the Tor . . .

delivered each of us in due time to the top of Mam Tor (Mother Hill) also know as “Shivering Mountain,” due to its habit of shedding loose shale, thereby creating a series of baby or “mini-hills” on the valley floor, where they coexist with Bronze and Iron Age burial middens. Remains of fortress settlements crown Mam Tor, the highest of the peaks that spool out along the long ridge pathway from which the land spreads out in splendor.

Some of us chose to go over the edge seeking adventure . . .

Hooded ex-pat family members off the beaten path.
One of the views from the top . . . (those are sheep down there!)

Sheep, did I mention, sheep, lots of sheep grazing freely throughout the park?

Couldn’t even be bothered to lift their black faces . . .
as they fertilize the land generously. Yes, a sheep poop photo! Quite pretty . . . almost like something one might use as a garnish.

Moving on to the surprise at the end of the road . . . Tor Vale Mill at New Mills, Derbyshire, built in 1790.

Once a thriving cotton mill, now in process of conversion to very choice getaway suits . . .
Definitely a fixer upper after the 2000 fire . . .

Comfort, history and class at the end of the road.
Thank You, C!
Our digs, one of several renovated suites . . . a three bedroom, two modern baths, open kitchen with dinning room and living room, all under open beamed ceiling came with 2 Knoll style sofas, darlings! Design aficionados that you are, you will of course not confuse the contemporary Knoll offerings with the 17th C forerunner. We tucked ourselves in for Indian take out — most content.

Great, timeless design as seen in Downton Abbey in a more plush and tasseled presentation.

Views onto the steep cliffside rockery gardens on one side . . .

and onto the causeway to the river between buildings on the other.

Other scenic bits and pieces .. .

Doorway hardware . . .
Lovely beat up blue door into the yet to be renovated building , the bottom floor of which is already being used as a wedding venue.
The clan gathered to set out for . . .

Chatsworth House, the local aristocratic pile, home to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, the 16 generation of the Cavendish family to reside therein.

. . . to be continued

. . . to be continued.

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