A Walkthrough Little India, Durban
I grew up near Brickfield and Sparks roads. Its the business district of the Overport Indian neighbourhood, Durban. This is still one of the busiest areas in Durban. Its an amalgamation of cultures, religions and the beauty of Durban. I thought that I should document this historical hustling, bustling district. I was going to go alone and tell you a story that was so distant, the reader wouldn’t understand the place. So, I took my grandmother along with me. I didn’t know at this at first found a story I didn’t expect.
At first, I didn’t know the angle of the story. When I realised I could ask my mom and grandma, I fired away. While I talked to my grandmother, I discovered that she knew everyone. You see, my grandmother taught at a local Overport school. She taught all the kids in the neighbourhoods whos parents owned businesses. This is a walkthrough Brickfield Road and Sparks Road on a Friday afternoon.
Sparks and Brickfields roads have mainly Indian-owned businesses. This part of town is called the “Little India”. 1) Because it was an Indian area 2,) People drive as haphazardly as they do in India. There are supermarkets, halal butchers, Hindu prayer shops, Indian snack shops and a famous mosque, The Mohameddeya Musjid.
Before I begin the journey, I would like to thank everyone who helped me to write this story. All the people of Overport are so friendly, warm and happy to see a camera. The small business owners made me comfortable talking to them and exploring their stores
We start our journey at the Sunrise Fruit and Veg. It was started in 1964 by the late Mr Reggie Brijanund. His son, Mr Krish Brijanund, now runs the business. The sunrise company own many other shops, such as the prayer goods store across the road. I remember when I was a little girl going to Sunrise fresh produce. It was much larger and more packed than the day I visited. Maybe it’s cause I would always go at the busiest times.
Next to Sunrise Fruit and Veg is Ameen’s Butchery. As soon as we entered the shop with my grandma, The man at the counter recognised my grandmother. “You are Mrs Pather, right? You were my standard three teacher”. I knew my grandmother taught many children, but I didn’t realise they had so much respect for her. It looks like every butchery I go to in Durban. Besides the meat, there are imported Indian products like biscuits and local snacks like murkoo. The butcher has been around Overport for a long time. Most of the people working in this family were actually taught by my grandmother.
My grandma and I decided to cross the road. It wasn’t easy. I think we almost got knocked by a car or twelve. That’s possible when the robots aren’t working in a 6-way intersection. Next, we went across the road to the Sunrise Pray Good Shop. The shop is in a building with a Sunrise restaurant. Part of the building is turned into a fireworks shop during Diwali. This shop keeps Indian prayer goods such as incense, flowers, jewellery and religious idols. There is so much in the shop that I don’t know where to start! The owner of Sunrise’s wife, Mrs Brijanund, was managing the store at the time. She was friendly and very excited that I was taking photos of the area.
We took a walk along the road passing the funeral, parlour, the supermarkets and carried along with the hustle and bustle of the street. We passed a man selling green mangos.
“Those mangoes aren’t right for mango pickle. They will be too bitter” said my grandmother in disgust.
The hawker was not delighted with that comment.
We pass all the old flats and hookah shops when we are across from Romans. We are at a shop called Twins on Sparks. My grandmother taught the owners of the store and were very excited to see her. This store is what I think of Asian shopping — cramped up to the walls with bags, books and baskets. I walk into the shop. Scratch that, I shuffle my way through the shop. These stores are hidden gems. They carry everything you need at an affordable price — some of it even better quality for what you bargained.
We ended our long journey down memory lane at the Muhammadeya Mosque on Sparks Road. It was around the time of the prayer on a Friday afternoon. The Azan played powerfully through the speakers reaching the houses of hundreds in the neighbourhood. The mosque was surrounded by many cars. Every single person in the area decided to quieten down and take in the prayer. I love shopping all over Durban. But, If I had to choose I’d choose sparks road. At least the shopping is half the price, 50 kinds of Indian snacks and there is never a short conversation.
