The scope of the French AGEC Eco-labeling Law is changing from ’24 on. Are you impacted?
Summary
The French government passed the AGEC law in 2020. The AGEC law (article 15) requires all textile products sold in France to be labeled with an environmental score by 2024–2025. This labeling system, developed by ADEME (the French Sustainable Transition Agency), will provide consumers with information about the environmental impact of the textiles they purchase.
Just as Nutri-Score simplifies comparing food, environmental textile scores simplify comparing the environmental impact of those textiles. From organic cotton to recycled materials, this labeling system showcases the efforts of brands in minimizing their ecological footprint.
What does the AGEC law say about environmental labeling?
The AGEC law for Anti-Waste legislation for a Circular Economy, adopted on 10/02/2020, is part of the French environmental code and has 130 articles. The Apparel (textile) and Footwear sector is specifically covered by 5 articles of the AGEC Law: article 13, 15, 17, 35 and 62.
Article 13 of the AGEC law validates the implementation of an environmental display to inform the consumer, based on the life cycle assessment method. This means that products will be labeled with information about their environmental impact, from the extraction of raw materials to the disposal of the product at the end of its life.
The obligation of environmental display is completed in the law “Climate and Resilience” Law n°2021 1104 of 22 August 2021 Title II Article 2. This law expands the scope of the environmental labeling requirements to include additional product categories, such as furniture and electronic devices.
Who is affected?
It is not just about French companies, but this regulation applies to all producers, importers, distributors, or other parties with an annual turnover >50M€ who are responsible for placing at least 25,000 pieces of waste-generating consumer products on the French market.
An exception is made for products where the last units are placed on the market between 1st January 2023 and 31st March 2023.
In 2024, the law will extend to an annual turnover of more than 20 million euros and at least 10,000 pieces on the French market.
And in 2025 the decree will extend to an annual turnover of more than 10 million euros and 10,000 pieces on the French market.
What is the methodology behind ADEME’s environmental labeling?
Ademe’s environmental labeling is an eco score that provides consumers with information about the environmental impact. The labels are based on a set of criteria that assess the environmental impact of a textile throughout its product life cycle.
Visual indicators (A-B-C-D-E) have been introduced to help consumers make informed sustainable choices. These indicators allow consumers to see at a glance how sustainable a particular textile item is.
The eco-score textile is a powerful tool that can help consumers make more sustainable choices about the clothes they buy. Furthermore, it helps brands communicate their commitment to sustainability to stakeholders. By 2024–2025, every item of clothing sold in France will require a label detailing its precise climate impact. The rest of the European Union expects to follow a similar rule by 2026, called the PEFCR Apparel & Footwear.
The calculation of the environmental impact of textiles takes into account the following five factors, as defined by the ADEME framework:
- What is the function or service provided by the product?
- To what extent does the function or service cover the user’s needs?
- What level of quality do you desire for the function or service?
- How long is the expected lifespan of the product?
- Which CPA code(s) (Classification of products by activity in the economic community) are associated with the product?
This results in a calculated rating from A to E, which considers the textile’s entire life cycle, from the extraction of raw materials to the disposal of the product, using life cycle assessment (LCA) methods.
The current environmental labeling applies to three categories: clothing, shoes and other textiles.
So, what information is required?
Recycled content. The statement “product containing at least X% recycled materials” must be displayed on the product. The incorporation of recycled materials must also be communicated to consumers for packaging used to market products consumed or used by households, including those consumed outside the home.
Traceability. Companies will need to provide traceability information for a product. Brands must disclose where each stage of production takes place. So, for textiles: cutting and sewing, knitting and weaving, dyeing, and printing.
Microplastics. Companies are required to disclose information on the presence of plastic microfibers if a textiles product contains more than 50% of synthetic fibers.
Hazardous substances. The presence of hazardous chemicals must be communicated if the concentration is more than 0.1% of the mass in a substance, mixture, or article in line with Article 3 of EU REACH regulation.
Recyclability. Information on a product or packaging’s recyclability should be expressed in the statement “mostly recyclable product” or “mostly recyclable packaging”. The regulation states that for a product to be recyclable, it must cover the following 5 elements:
- Can be efficiently collected locally through the population’s access to local collection points.
- Can be sorted, for instance it can be directed to recycling channels.
- Does not contain substances that will disrupt sorting, recycling or limit the use of recycled material.
- Recycled material produced by recycling processes used must represent more than 50% of the bulk waste collected.
- Can be recycled in practice and on an industrial scale, through a guarantee that the quality of the recycled material obtained is sufficient to guarantee the sustainability of the outputs. The recycling chain must also demonstrate sufficient ability to take charge of the products that can be integrated into it.
Reusability. Statements such as “reusable packaging” or “refillable packaging” must be displayed on the packaging.
Prohibited environmental terms. Under this decree, the terms “biodegradable”, “Respectful of the environment”, or any equivalent allegation are prohibited from being used on a product or its packaging.
Pilario is here to help
It is important to know that the French eco-labeling law is not per se compatible with the EU’s Green Claims Initiative. So one risks to do the exercise twice.
And that is where we come in.
For the textile industry, our BPX Textile Tool is a powerful resource that can help you stay ahead of the curve and meet future eco-labeling requirements. Our software calculates and projects the environmental impact score of your textiles today and ensuring compliance with future requirements as you can generate the different reports needed based on 1 exercise.
Curious about learning more? Visit our website pilario.com or book a demo here.
