NATURAL HAIR & THE WAY IT’S CHANGING SOCIETY’S BEAUTY STANDARDS

Hair is a huge part of the African American culture and community. From the signature huge afros of the 1970’s, to the jerry curls of the 1980’s, and the cornrows of the 1990’s, black hair is an expression of self and status in the black community. Regardless of the diversity of the African American hair throughout the world natural hair is still generally been deemed as the less attractive and appealing.
“Natural unstraightened looks that display black hair textures are generally perceived as too ethic, too black, or a too aggressive challenge to middle class American values,” said by Ayana Byrd author of Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. “Often the harshest critics are other black people”.
However the recent growth of the natural community has caused a shift in the beauty industry, how natural hair is perceived and discussed, and most importantly how black women’s self esteem is rising all around the world.
A History of The Natural Hair Movement
For years natural hair has been deemed generally unattractive and undesirable from generation to generation. Both the black community and non-black community have adopted the idea that if someone is to wear their hair naturally they are as un-ruly and un-predicatable as the hair that grows out of their head.
Texture, volume, kinks or naps, and “bad hair” is the type of language that has been used for years to describe African American hair. Perm advertisements and packaging ,from the early 1900’s to present day, depict black women as happier or more successful with straightened hair. The G.A. Morgan Hair Refining Company slogan for their hot comb presses was simply “Improve Your Appearance” and “War declared on bad hair”.

African American men and women became more active wearing their natural hair in the 1960’s with the rise of the Black Power Movement. Natural hair was a statement of freedom and anti-assimilation. The natural hair movement continued from the 1970’s forward.
“The ’70s movement was about making a political statement and couched within that was the goal of recapturing black power and recapturing the black is beautiful message,” said Afrobella founder and writer Patrice Yursik.
The natural hair movement went on until the 1990’s, however perms and chemical relaxer remained popular regardless of the movement. The 2009 documentary “Good Hair” by comedian — actor Chris Rock went into a deep explanation and research about the chemicals in perms and the negative effects it has on the hair shaft and scalp, such as chemicals burns and hair loss.
“Relaxers work by permanently breaking down protein bonds within the hair shaft to loosen the curl pattern. Lye relaxers contain sodium hydroxide, a harsh, caustic chemical with a pH factor ranging from 10 to 14,” according to a Livestrong report.

The film caused an increase in the discussion of what is considered “good hair” and “bad hair”, and how relaxers have skewed such views. Around 2010 the natural hair movement became as popular as it was in the ’70’s. Several natural hair care brands and natural hair blogs and bloggers we’re created around the same time in order to create a community that educated and encouraged wearing hair in it’s natural state.
“For many years natural hair meant you were not qualified,” said Jennifer Texada a natural hair enthusiast. “What this movement is doing for people it it’s raising an understanding among everything that you wearing your hair growing out of hair does not make you less than.”
Natural hair is not a new trend, it’s history and the meaning behind it is quiet extensive. But so many people are attracted to it right now not only for aesthetic reasons but also because it’s a social statement.
Billions in Hair
The shift of more women wearing their natural hair has caused a shift in the industry, however the black hair industry as a whole is still very profitable. The natural hair industry specifically is worth $500 billion. Major brands, retailers, and investors have recognized that the industry is worth investing in. In October 2014 L‘Oréal Beauty purchased Carol’s Daughter, a natural hair care company, and netted $27 million in sales.
“Carol’s Daughter possesses an expertise in the multi-cultural consumer segment, a rapidly expanding market that represents an important growth opportunity in the beauty industry,” said Frédéric Rozé, President and CEO of L’Oréal USA , in an official press release.
Another natural beauty brand, Shea Moisture, sold a large share of their company to Bain Capital Investment Firm in September 2015.
The rise of the natural hair movement has also caused a major decline in chemical relaxer sales. In 2008 relaxer sales were $206 million and in 2015 relaxer sales dropped down to $152 million. Because relaxer sales are going down hair care product sales are going up.
“The natural hair trend is driving an increase in sales of styling products such as styling moisturizers, setting lotions, curl creams, pomades, etc., but the increase has caused the relaxer segment to decline in sales,” said Tonya Roberts, multicultural analyst at market analysis agency Mintel . “A look at expenditures from 2008–2013 shows steady growth in the Black haircare category for all categories except relaxers/perms.”
Although transitioning the hair from it’s dependency on chemicals to none at all can be a lengthy and challenging process it’s becoming more and more popular. A CNBC report found that two-thirds of African American women transition to natural hair in 2013 alone.
Although the black hair industry has been making plenty of money since the first perm was invented in the 1800’s, the fact the natural hair industry is close to surpassing everything else is an indicator that the natural hair movement is not going away any time soon.