An Intimate Exploration into Kyoto: Serene Solitudes & Timeless Tales

— Article 15: Leaflets in Yase and Ohara —

In northeast Kyoto, cloaked in the understated elegance of nature, lie Yase and Ohara, regions I had the fortune to explore in April 2022. This visit coincided with a mesmerizing spectacle: temples and hills adorned with a tapestry of leaflets.

Nature’s Canvas: Panoramic View of Leaf-Covered Hills from Rurikoin
Intricate Elegance: The Moss Garden’s Lush Complexity in Rurikoin
Folding Screen Painting in Rurikoin

Nestled in Yase, Rurikoin remains a hidden gem, revered by locals yet largely undiscovered by the tourist throng. My first encounter with this sanctuary was through an anecdote shared in a quaint Japanese bar, a tale I recounted in the inaugural article of this series. The ineffable beauty of Rurikoin’s leaflets, which I witnessed on April 17th, transcends linguistic expression.

Summer Radiance: Glistening Leaves as Viewed from Within Rurikoin
Seasonal Contrast: The Moss Garden’s Unique Summer Splendor
Tranquil Vista: Moss Garden as Seen from Rurikoin’s Serene Interiors

A subsequent visit to Rurikoin on August 14th revealed a contrasting splendor. The verdant vibrancy of summer imbued the temple with a lively aura, a stark contrast to the delicate allure it possessed in the spring.

Ohara’s Idyllic Spring: A Peaceful Valley
Bankanen: The Framed Garden in Hosenin
The Majestic 700-Year-Old Pine in Bankanen

A mere 15 minutes from Yase, Ohara unfurls its rustic charm. My journey on April 23rd led me through its deeper enclaves. Hosenji, established in the 13th century, remains an obscure retreat. However, its garden, Bankanen, is celebrated among the locals. Dubbed the “framed garden,” its design is a visual poetry best appreciated through the accompanying photographs.

Stairs toward Jakkoin
Timeless Threshold: The Sanmon Gate of Jakkoin Temple
Architectural Grace: The Hondo, Heart of Jakkoin Temple
The Historic Site of Noriko’s Solitary Prayers
Sacred Passage: Gateway to Noriko’s Mausoleum

Jakkoin, believed to have been founded in the 6th century, sits in the serene depths of Ohara. The temple’s name, hinting at ‘lightening the loneliness,’ is befitting its tranquil location. It harbors tales of Noriko Taira, a princess and mother of Emperor Antoku. When the Taira family was defeated by the rival Minamoto family in the late 12th century, Noriko tried to commit suicide with the eight-year-old Emperor, resulting in the death of the Emperor. She spent her last years in Jakkoin.

For those yet to immerse in Kyoto’s tranquil charm, I recommend beginning with “An Intimate Exploration into Kyoto: Serene Solitudes & Timeless Tales — Article 1: Lesser Known Gems.”

Await the next chapter of this journey, where I delve into the enchanting allure of “Tofukuji in Spring.”

--

--

Hiroshi Yoshiura, Professor & Ph.D.

Lived in Kyoto from 2021 to 2023 and am now in Tokyo, traveling and living in countries around the world, professor and doctor of science, information scientist