PG04 — Haute Couture designer research 2
// BLOOMING ASHES //
What survives when all is gone ?
The beauty of the rest.
And if one day everything disappeared ? If we shall be forced to start on a blank slate, what would remain ? Ornament as final refuge. Metamorphosis as our last subterfuge.
The woman is a vessel dressed in veils of false modesty, entwined in body jewels holding flight. Pleated terra cotta silk crepe playing like soft shells. The crease is pushed to its climax: it does not reshape the body but the space around it.
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« The problem is not how to make a fold but how to continue it, across the ceiling, carrying it into the infinity,» wrote Gilles Deleuze*.
When all must be reinvented, the woman transforms and recovers her lost powers. Sheltered in a fur dress crafted like a mosaic adorned with laser-cut leather scales by textile designer Coen Carsten, she becomes a persona of a mythology yet to be written.
She is a shaman in all her power and apparent fragility, entwined with braided earth red leather harnesses turned into falsely protective bustiers. As she metamorphoses, her skin is laced with fragile lianas made of embroidered branches aspiring to softly constrain her body.
Her strength is her beauty. A mixed coated cotton jumpsuit sculpts her amazon body in magma orange. She wears fragile chainmail mesh or armor like second skins composed with copper wired snaps. A victorious woman, veiled and unveiled in her delicate jersey and embroidered chain dress, stripped of any artifice. A powerful and paradoxical woman who builds her armor with all that remains, with an instinctive gesture.
A woman from the depths, dressed in iridescent organza composed of pin tucks cascades. A creature clothed in light from the limbo in her dress made of LEDs and piano strings co-created with sculptor Bastien Carré. A bioluminescent creature mysteriously emerging from the abyss. Where survival rises into the sublime…
* Gilles Deleuze, The Fold: Leibniz and the Baroque, The Midnight Editions, June 29, 2011.