Exploring Chinatown
Milano’s Hidden District Rich in Chinese Italian History
By: Ryan Zanelotti, Vica Billings, Francisco Lima
There are only a few of the people who live in Milan who know the true history of Chinatown in Milano. In fact, it’s a Chinese neighborhood, a bit different from the one we’re used to seeing in other big cities. It’s just one quick stop away off Milans purple metro line. It is located between the streets Paolo Scarpi, Bramante and Canonica, near the monumental cemetery.
There are only a few of the people who live in Milan who know the true history of Chinatown in Milano. In fact, it’s a Chinese neighborhood, a bit different from the one we’re used to seeing in other big cities. It’s just one quick stop away off Milans purple metro line. It is located between the streets Paolo Scarpi, Bramante and Canonica, near the monumental cemetery. It is small and full of clothing stores, oriental food markets and restaurants. It is a set of streets where the largest Chinese community in Italy is concentrated, more than 25,000 immigrants (https://www.oguiademilao.com/o-que-fazer-na-chinatown-de-milao/) and has been growing their roots. Over the years, this “city within the city” has had a contribution in the history of the country of Italy. The first Chinese arrived in Milan around the 1920s (https://www.oguiademilao.com/o-que-fazer-na-chinatown-de-milao/), during the beginning of the Mussolini regime, when the fascist movement began to lead. The first activities were related to the work of silk and skin, the production of silks and skins and the production of ties. Already during World War II, the processing was converted. That area played an important role in the armed conflict, with the manufacture of leather belts (https://www.oguiademilao.com/chinatown-em-milao/) for Italian and German soldiers. Today there is a whole different trade and it is ready to be visited. We can find clothing stores, supermarkets with oriental products, and in addition, many shops that offer services such as computer and mobile phone repair, services for immigrants, massage centers and Chinese medicine. Every store within this marvelous town has history.
The Chinese quarter borders the historic center and is a multi-ethnic neighborhood located around the pedestrian street Paolo Sarpi. The streets are decorated with Chinese lanterns and are characterized by food markets and shops selling silk and leather goods. Many dining options are available, from restaurants serving dim sum to tea rooms and stalls offering Asian snacks.
Two of this articles authors are apart of an amazing class named “Reading Milan and Italian Cities. Place-making and Cultural Rescources” where we are lucky enough to take part in activities that allow us to see and learn about Milan through its exploration. During one of these classes, which happened to be my favorite, we visited Chinatown. More specifically, after walking through the streets, we went to the Chinatown Cultural Center. During this exploration we met two older men. An older gentleman, and a younger man. Both of these men have been volunteering at the Cultural Center for upwards of 10 years. The older man has spent most of his adult life volunteering at this center. Over the years he has developed a great connection to the town, and the people and the culter. So much so, that he now considers himself a Chinese man. As the class overheard this we were puzzled as to what he meant since he himself has no Chinese relatives or heritage, but his deep knowledge and love for the culture allows himself to have this mindset. He had much to say about the past, the present, and the future of Milan’s Chinatown. An interesting point he brought up about the past was the wine culture within Chinatown. Through his italian dialect, our professor translated what the man said, and what he said was since China is so close to California in the United States they were purchase their wine from them, however once the Chinese moved into Milan they started buying the wine from them, which helped propel the Chinatown economy into what it is today. The older man also explained one of the greatest differences between the present and past, which is the heritage. He explained much of the younger generation Chinese people aren’t continuing to learn the language, which was such a huge part of what made the town unique in the people’s eyes. Because of this, as you walk through Chinatown you will notice the store signs in both italian and chinese, and even the people in the supermarket speaking italian as well with chinese. Next we will speak about, and to the younger man. This young man is 25 years old, and has been volunteering at the center for 10 years. He takes great pride in the culture he knows so much about and loves. He has gone through much to learn and be where he is now. Both the men have similar ideals about the culture and what is impacting it now for better or worse. The young man intends to continue his studies, and to study in China as well for a long period of time to learn more about the culture. In a different way than if he were to stay in Milan. It was an eye opening experience to be able to learn from these two people who have lived and learned so much from the Chinese-Italian people themselves.
We can find the best Chinese food restaurants in town, which offer above all of their authentic Chinese cuisine. Not to be missed is the remarkable celebration of the Chinese New Year, during which a couple of dragons parade down the main street of the neighborhood and all the streets are decorated for the spectacular occasion. Chinatown has its memories to be shared, history to be learned, and experiences to be had, and because of how amazing this town is, it attracts a crowd of spectators from all over the city, and even all over the world. You will not be able to understand the historical significance of this town until you finally take your first step into it.
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