Arrival and Travel into Town

Peter Neville-Hadley
A Better Guide to Beijing
16 min readJan 7, 2017

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Part of the Travel section of A Better Guide to Běijīng’s Practical A–Z

From the Airports

For full details of airport services including shopping, dining, train tickets, and wi-fi see Getting Away.

In September 2019 Běijīng will be opening the monster Dàxīng International Airport, a third civil airport to the south of the city. For now it has only two airports, the second of which is almost entirely unknown and will anyway shut when the new one opens. Even after Dàxīng opens reports suggest that the large majority of its traffic will be China Southern and China Eastern flights, along with Skyteam members such as Air France, KLM, and Delta. So arriving internationally you’ll still mostly likely find yourself at Terminal 2 or 3 at Capital Airport, or may arrive at Terminal 1 if on a domestic flight from certain destinations. Terminal 1 is linked to Terminal 2 by a walkway.

Terminals 1, 2, and 3 are linked by free shuttle buses taking 15 mins between Terminals 2 and 3, and an extra 5 mins to reach Terminal 1. These run every 10 mins, 6am–11pm; every 15 mins, 11pm–1am; every 30 mins, 1am–6am. No ticket is needed. There’s plentiful English-language signage for all services, and English-speaking information counters.

Citizens of most developed nations may now obtain a 144-hour transit visa which is free on arrival to those with an onward ticket to a third overseas destination (not a return ticket to the original point of departure), and allows travel in all of Běijīng, Tiānjīn, and Héběi Province. Look for signs before reaching immigration. You may leave the airport but not leave Běijīng. If you arrive in the middle of the night or are waiting to make a connection the next day, there is basic accommodation, signposted Time-Rate Lounges, in all three terminals, in which couches, dormitory beds with shared bath, or entire rooms with en-suite bath may be rented by the hour or overnight. The rooms are plain and simple, mostly without windows, and their condition does tend to reflect the high traffic they see. See Airport Accommodation, for details of these and other hotel options at or near the airport. Porters are uniformed and their charges clearly marked on their trollies. A sign in English (unnecessary in Chinese) points out that you should not tip. Left luggage facilities are also well signposted.

Whatever form of onward transport into town you choose you’ll require ¥RMB cash. There are multiple bank machines (ATMs) in each terminal that accept foreign bank cards (Mastercard, Visa, Cirrus, Plus, Amex, JCB), as well as machines that accept foreign bank notes and spit out ¥RMB in return, bank branches that handle foreign exchange, and exchange counters. While exchange rates are identical at banks, the commercial exchange counters here now impose fees. See Money and Prices, for full advice on money exchange. Regardless of how eager you may be to get your phone working for voice, text, or data avoid desks selling local SIM cards which can be triple the price you’ll find in town. If you plan to leave Běijīng soon by rail, counters in Capital Airport’s Terminals 2 and 3 sell rail tickets for the standard ¥5 fee. For full details of these and other services see Getting Away.

From Capital Airport 首都国际机场

Shǒudū Guójí Jīchǎng, t 96158, en.bcia.com.cn

Capital International Airport is 30km northeast of the centre of Běijīng. The best way into town is on the Airport Express Line, which reaches m Dōng Zhí Mén (Lines 2 & 13) in 22 minutes from Terminal 3, stopping at Terminal 2 and m Sān Yuán Qiáo (Line 10) for ¥25. The first departure from Terminal 3 is at 06.21 and the last at 22.51. Yìkǎtōng (一卡通) stored-value travel cards may be purchased at the station entrances (a good idea — see Travel Around the City for details) and individual tickets either from bilingual machines or from a counter (monolingual). Airport Express tickets do not entitle you to travel on the remainder of the metro system, so a new ticket must be purchased or your card re-swiped when changing at m Dōng Zhí Mén or m Sān Yuán Qiáo. There’s sometimes taxi misbehaviour at Dōng Zhí Mén with attempts to overcharge exorbitantly. This can be quelled (see Tips for Trouble-free Taxis for how) but it’s best to walk away and get a passing taxi, not one that’s waiting. It will be faster still to continue your journey underground, but note that Dōng Zhí Mén is a major transport hub, and busy even by Běijīng metro standards.

There are multiple airport shuttle buses (机场巴士, jīchǎng bāshì) to points around the city, calling at all terminals, with tickets ¥15–¥24 one-way (Yìkǎtōng discounts do not apply). These are well-signposted and depart from beneath arrivals.where there are ticket booths and bus stops marked in English. Travel times, where given, are the official ‘under normal conditions’ times. Normal conditions only every obtain perhaps from about 8pm–7am. Add at least 50% to journey times for the remainder of the day, and commonly double them. Regardless of scheduling some services wait until they are full before departing.

Routes and stops mostly likely to be of use to the visitor are listed below. Be warned that there are frequent alterations to service.

b 机场1线 to Fāng Zhuāng on the southeast side of Běijīng (60 mins, ¥24) runs down to the northeast Third Ring Road at m Sān Yuán Qiáo (Line 10, 18 mins, ¥15), then straight south down the East Third Ring past m Liàng Mǎ Qiáo (Line 10, 20 mins, ¥18), on through m Guómào (Lines 1 & 10, 40 mins, ¥21), m Pān Jiā Yuán (Line 10, 50 mins, ¥24), and m Shì Lǐ Hé (Line 10, ¥24). 7am–1am every 30 mins. If your destination is any of these Line 10 stops you’d be quicker to take the Airport Express and change to Line 10.

b 机场2线 to m Xī Dān (Lines 1 & 4, 65 mins, ¥24) travels along the North Second Ring Road via m Yōnghé Gōng Lama Temple (Lines 2 & 5, just west at 北小街桥西, 20 mins, ¥18), m Āndìng Mén (Line 2, 25 mins, ¥21), m Jīshuǐ Tán (Line 2, 30 mins, ¥21), m Xī Zhí Mén (Lines 2, 4, & 13; S2 suburban railway [temporarily suspended], 40 mins, ¥24), and m Fùxīng Mén, (Line 1 & 2, 55 mins, ¥24). 7am–midnight, every 30 mins.

b 机场3线 to m Běijīng Railway Station (Line 2, 45 mins, ¥24) travels down the East Second Ring Road via m Dōng Zhí Mén (Lines 2 & 13, 20 mins, ¥21), m Dōng Sì Shí Tiáo (Line 2, 25 mins, ¥21), m Cháoyáng Mén (Lines 2 & 6, 30 mins, ¥21), Běijīng International Hotel in Jiànguó Mén Nèi Dàjiē just north of Běijīng Station (40 mins, ¥24). 7am–midnight every 30 mins. 机场13线 is the night bus version of this route but extended to m Fùxīng Mén (Lines 1 & 2), just north of m Chēgōng Zhuāng (Lines 2 & 6), and m Jīshuǐ Tán (Line 2) on the west and north sides of the Second Ring Road. Midnight–last domestic arrival.

b 机场4线 runs down to the Third Ring Road then anti-clockwise around it to m Gōngzhǔfén (Lines 1 & 10, 90 mins, ¥24) halfway down the west side. Stops include Sān Yuán Xī Qiáo (inconvenient, 20 mins, ¥15), m Ānzhēn Mén (Line 10, 30mins ¥21), Mǎ Diàn Qiáo (mid-North Third Ring, 33 mins, ¥21), Friendship Hotel (at m Rénmín University, Line 4, 53 mins, ¥24), Zǐzhú Qiáo (Shangri-La Hotel, 70 mins, ¥24). 7am to midnight, every 30 mins. b 机场12窟 is a night bus version of the same route, running midnight until the last domestic arrival, stopping first at Jìng’ān Zhuāng (静安庄) on the Northeast Third Ring (where you might switch to a taxi) and then continuing clockwise with several stops on the north and west side, including Zǐzhú Qiáo.

b 机场5线 takes the North Fourth Ring Road to the Zhōng Guān Cūn computer district (50 mins, ¥24) with Fourth Ring stops including: Asian Games Village (Ānhuì Qiáo at southeast corner of Olympic Green, 40 mins, ¥21), Xuéyuán Qiáo (northeast corner of Peking university/Běi Dà). 7am–midnight, every 30mins.

b 机场6线 takes a northerly route past the Olympic Village and the Best Western OL Stadium Hotel (¥24) to end at the Shàngdì Holiday Inn Hotel Express (northwest of the centre, 65 mins, ¥24). 7.20am–10pm, every 40 mins.

b 机场7线 runs south down East Fourth Ring Road and turns west across the Chinese (Southern, Outer) City to the south side of m Běijīng West Railway Station (Line 9, 1 hr 40 mins, ¥24), passing through Cháoyáng Gōngyuán Qiáo (southeast coner of the park, 45 mins, ¥18), the Jiànwài SOHO complex (55 mins, ¥21), Guǎngqú Mén on the east Second Ring Road (61 mins, ¥24), and the south end of Qián Mén Dàjiē (71mins, ¥24). 7.20am — midnight (to 1am Mar 1 — Oct 26 and Spring Festival), every 30 mins.

b 机场10线 runs to m Běijīng South Railway Station (Line 4, 65 mins, ¥24), stopping at Guǎngqú Mén on the east of the southern city (45 mins, ¥21) and then following the Second Ring Road round to the south. Every 30 mins, 9.30am–9.30pm.

b 机场12线 runs to the Sì Huì Bus Station, m Sì Huì (Bā Tōng Line) running south well to the east of the centre, past m Qīngnián Lù (Line 6). 9.30am–8.30pm. Note that the night bus version of line 12 follows a completely different route. See above.

b 机场13线 runs conveniently to Wángfǔ Jǐng Dàjiē, the Peace Hotel in Jīnyú Hútòng, and the Regent Hotel in Jīnbǎo Jiē at m Dēngshì Kǒu (Line 5), but inconveniently only does so twice daily at 11am and 1pm from Terminal 3, then Terminal 2, and Terminal 1. Note that the night bus version of Line 13 follows a completely different route. See above.

b 机场15线 runs to the Altar of the Century via Xī Zhí Mén Wài near m Xī Zhí Mén 西直门 (Lines 2, 4, & 13; S2 suburban railway), and m Běijīng Zoo (Line 4). 9.30am–8.30pm.

Night services have long been unpredictable, but by that point all but those on the tightest budgets should anyway be taking a taxi.

The cheapest bus of all is regular city bus b 359 which will get you to Dōng Zhí Mén Wài (15 stops) for m Dōng Zhí Mén (lines 2 & 13) on the northeast Second Ring Road for only ¥5 — ¥2.50 if an yìkǎtōng travel card is used, via m Sān Yuán Qiáo (Line 10). It runs 5.20am–10pm, but takes a little effort to find, and may take 90 mins to reach Dōng Zhí Mén, taking not the expressway but the service road beside it.

Go to Terminal 2 arrivals level exit through Door 1 on the left. Turn left and follow the road round to the right, keeping on the left. Go through the turnstile leading to a bicycle park (if still there), cross the road on the other side of it and turn right. Follow this round to the left through the tunnel then cross over the next turning and when you come to the (labelled) Yíngbīn Běi Qiáo (bridge) scramble up the bank to the left taking a well-worn path, and go through the fence. Turn left and pause for a moment to consider the building to your left with the stubby little tower. That, as recently as the late 1980s, was the total of Běijīng airport’s terminals. Grand by the standards of Běijīng at the time, it had merely two baggage carousels, only one of which seemed to work. The apron outside was largely deserted except for a bread-bin-like airport bus, and a taxi or two, and the two-lane road into town was the nearest thing to a highway in the city. The b 359 stop is just round to the right, and an yìkǎtōng pass may be purchased at the booth (see Travel Around the City for details). If you return this way ‘black’ cabs will take you to the terminals for ¥10.

Several high-end hotels run shuttle buses that are free to their guests. See their websites for details. You’ll certainly want to use one of these if staying at a hotel near the airport as taxis object to short runs after long waits at the rank. Many offer pick-up services using hotel cars, usually upper-end BMWs, Mercedes, or even Rolls-Royce vehicles (notably The Peninsula Hotel). Prices are typically several multiples of the price of a taxi. Even some of the budget hotels offer pick-ups, but again, for rather more than the price of a taxi. Assorted travel agencies and car services also trawl the Internet looking for foreigners, and again, offering rates several multiples of a taxis.

Taxis are fairly well-regulated. Never go with anyone who approaches you in the terminal, but make your way to the well-signposted ranks, and join the queue. There is often a marshal who speaks at least the English names of principal hotels, but the drivers themselves will not, and you need to print the characters for your destination from the hotel’s web page, or show them from this book. Check the meter isn’t already running, and pay what it says upon arrival at your hotel, plus ¥10 expressway toll. Ask for a receipt (fā piào, 发票) in case you forget anything in the cab. There are no extra charges for baggage, and there is no tipping. Around ¥100 will get you to the centre, but the cost will vary widely according to the time of day. For a full explanation of how to use Běijīng’s taxis without trouble, see Tips for Trouble-free Taxis.

From Dàxīng International Airport 大型国际机场

Dàxīng Guójí Jīchǎng

From late 2019 you’ll be likely to land at Běijīng’s brand new monster airport if flying with China Southern, China Eastern, or foreign airlines that are Skyteam members, although in July 2019 British Airways (Oneworld) became the first foreign airline to announce that its London to Běijīng flight would move to Dàxīng. Polish LOT Airlines and Finnair have also announced a shifting of services, and there’s be new routes from Royal Air Maroc and Royal Brunei. Other routes include China Eastern from Paris, Tokyo Haneda, and Seoul; China Southern from Moscow, Tokyo Haneda, Cheongju, and Busan; Beijing Capital from Busan; and (military-origin) China United will replace services from the closing Nányuàn Airport (see below) with ones to Cheongju and Daegu, eventually shifting all its flights to the new airport.

The rules for taxis will be the same: head for the rank, and go with no one who accosts you in the arrivals hall. Metro links will be the New Airport Line to Cǎo Qiáo (interchange with Line 10), and the Jīngxióng Line to Běijīng West Railway Station, both taking about 20 minutes.

From Nányuàn Airport 南苑机场

Nányuàn Jīchǎng

It’s highly unlikely you’ll be arriving at Nányuàn unless arriving on a domestic flight with China United Airlines, which has strong links with China’s air force, and serves a number of airports around the country served by no other airline. Although a new terminal was recently opened Nányuàn will close altogether when the new monster Dàxīng International Airport opens nearby in September 2019. Nányuàn is just 13km south of central Běijīng and served by a shuttle bus to m Xī Dān (Lines 2 & 4, ¥18), via the west gate of the Temple of Heaven Park (¥15) and m Qián Mén (Line 2, ¥15), running 9am — last domestic arrival. Yìkǎtóng passes may not be used. As for taxis, go with no one who accosts you in the arrivals hall but head for the rank, and insist the meter is started.

From the Railway Stations

Have your ticket ready as it will be checked again as you reach the final exit turnstile.

For full details of station services including ticket buying, food, shopping, left luggage, and departures see Getting Away. At all railway stations, except possibly Běijīng East which hardly anyone even knows exists, taxis can be a problem. Head for the taxi rank and ignore all drivers who speak to you until you actually get into a cab. At most stations the drop-off and pick-up points for taxis are at separate locations and even on separate levels. Some attempt to beat the system by heading to the main entrance and breaching the rules. At almost all Chinese railway stations the exit brings you out onto the street, and reaching almost any other service requires walking round to the front, sometimes changing level, and re-entering through a security check with scanners. Ticket offices almost always have their own separate entrances (Běijīng South is an exception). Left luggage counters also typically open directly to the exterior of the station.

Běijīng Station 北京站

Běijīng Zhàn, www.bjrailwaystation.com.cn (all Běijīng region stations)

Trains from Moscow, Ulaan Baatar, northeast China, and slower trains from some east coast cities arrive here. Taxis are straight ahead and entrances to m Běijīng Railway Station (Line 2) are visible as you exit from basement level on the west side of the station. The metro station is ancient and very crowded. Expect to have to carry your baggage downstairs and to put it through an x-ray machine. Taxis can be problematic, and if you are travelling sufficiently lightly then walking away and flagging down a passing vehicle is advisable.

Běijīng South Station 北京南站

Běijīng Nán Zhàn

High-speed services from Shànghǎi, Tiānjīn, and Tánggū port arrive here, along with conventional (and much cheaper) services from Shànghǎi and points in the east and southeast. Exits to the taxi rank (well-managed), and m Běijīng South Railway Station (Line 4 & 14) are clearly signposted.

Běijīng West Station 北京西站

Běijīng Xī Zhàn

High-speed services from Guǎngzhōu and Hong Kong, as well as conventional trains direct from Hong Kong’s Hung Hom Station, connections from Vietnam, and trains from numerous cities in the south, southwest, and west, including Lhasa, all arrive here. m Běijīng West Railway Station (Lines 7 & 9) is a recent addition and signposted. Pestering before you reach the taxi rank and while you’re in the line can be a problem here, as can reluctance to take you with a running meter. But never go with anyone who accosts you, and if encountering difficulties walk away and flag down a passing vehicle. Some take escalators to the station’s main entrance and then attempt to board a cab there. It’s forbidden, but the drivers are often happy enough to have an immediate fare.

Běijīng North Station 北京北站

Běijīng Běi Zhàn

Visitors mainly pass through this station en route to the Great Wall at Bā Dá Lǐng. It’s unlikely you’ll be arriving here unless coming from Inner Mongolia, but if you do it’s one of the smallest and most convenient to deal with. m Xī Zhí Mén (Lines 2, 4, & 13) is just outside, and taxis approach from all directions at a busy intersection.

Běijīng East Station 北京东站

Běijīng Dōng Zhàn

Few even know this station exists, but if you happen to be arriving on a train to Běijīng Station that stops here just beforehand (mostly trains from nearby destinations to the north and east within commuting distance, and the former imperial summer resort of Chéngdé) it would be a good idea to alight. You might imagine yourself in a small country station, and getting through it and out to a taxi (a short walk west to Xī Dà Wàng Lù) is easy. m Dà Wàng Lù (Lines 1 & 14) is 20 mins walk away. Turn right (north) at Xī Dà Wàng Lù.

From the Bus Stations

Due to the rapid metro line building of recent years Běijīng’s bus stations are all now connected to the metro system. Except sometimes at Dōng Zhí Mén picking up a taxi is usually straightforward. Běijīng’s bus stations are myriad, and the list below confines itself to those at which those travelling long distance are more likely to arrive. For full details of bus station services see Getting Away.

Dōng Zhí Mén 东直门长途汽车站

Dōng Zhí Mén Chángtú Qìchēzhàn

Northeast corner of the Second Ring Road. Buses mostly arrive from Běijīng’s northern suburbs, most longer-distance services having now been passed to stations further out on the Third Ring Road. Follow signs to m Dōng Zhí Mén (Lines 2, 13. The Airport Express line has a separate entrance outside the station, marked ABC.) Taxis here look for those alighting from the Airport Express and there are increasing problems. If necessary walk away, or take a local bus for a stop or two.

Lìzé Qiáo 丽泽桥长途汽车站

Lìzé Qiáo Chángtú Qìchēzhàn

Southwest Third Ring Road. Long-distance buses arrive here from Shíjiāzhuāng, Tàiyuán, and even as far afield as Nánjīng, Shànghǎi, Hohhot, and Dàlián. There are plenty of taxis outside, but m Xī Jú (Lines 10 & 14) is a ten-minute walk away. Walk around the vast junction outside to the southwest side and west on the south side of Fēngtái Xī Lù.

Liù Lǐ Qiáo 六里桥长途汽车站

Liù Lǐ Qiáo Chángtú Qìchēzhàn

A major passenger terminal just outside the Southwest Third Ring Road, one exit north of Lìzé Qiáo. Zhāngjiākǒu and Chéngdé both send buses here, but they also arrive from as far as Yínchuān and Xiàmén. There are plenty of taxis, and m Liù Lǐ Qiáo (Lines 9 & 10) is just outside.

Zhàogōngkǒu 赵公口长途客运站

Zhàogōngkǒu Chángtú Kèyùnzhàn

Near the middle of the South Third Ring Road. Buses arrive from as far away as Shànghǎi but you are more likely to be arriving from Tiānjīn on either deluxe or cheaper services. There are also services here directly from the port at Tánggū. Taxis wait outside and pass by on the Third Ring Road. m Liú Jiā Yáo (Line 5) is a 15-minute walk east.

Mùxī Yuán 木樨园长途汽车站

Mùxī Yuán Chángtú Qìchēzhàn

A collection of stations south of the South Third Ring Road on the city’s central axis. If you arrive at Mùxī Yuán it will likely be from Bǎodìng to the south in Héběi Province, but there are also services here from as far away as the Mongolian border. Flag down a passing taxi. Until sometime in 2017–19 when the southward extension of Line 8 will open, the nearest metro is m Liú Jiā Yáo (Line 5), reached by a 30-minute walk north to the Third Ring Road then east.

Sìhuì 四惠长途汽车站

Sì Huì Chángtú Qìchēzhàn

Just outside the East Fourth Ring Road directly east of the main Cháng’ān/Jiànguó Mén axis. m Sìhuì (Bā Tōng Line) is directly across a footbridge north over the Jīngtōng Expressway, and if there are problems with cabs at the bus station then ‘black cabs’ can be found waiting on a slip road over the bridge, and legal cabs in the side streets on the other side of the metro station or on the service roads paralleling the East Fouth Ring Road just to the west.

Bāwángfén 八王坟长途汽车站

Bāwángfén Chángtú Qìchēzhàn

Between the East Third and Fourth Ring Roads south of the Jiànguó axis. Buses arrive here from the far northeast, but also from nearer east coast destinations such as Qánhuángdǎo and Tiānjīn. There are taxis at the entrance, and m Dà Wàng Lù (Line 1) is ten minutes’ walk north.

From the port at Tánggū 天津国际邮轮母港

Tiānjīn Guójì Yóulún Mǔgǎng

Cruise ships and ferries dock at Tiānjīn International Cruise Home Port at Tánggū 170km from Běijīng, and nearby piers. Immigration is straightforward, there are currency exchange counters. For rail and bus to Běijīng. See By Sea in Travel to Běijīng.

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Peter Neville-Hadley
A Better Guide to Beijing

Author, co-author, editor, consultant on 18 China guides and reference works. Published in The Sunday Times, WSJ, Time, SCMP, National Post, etc.