China Red Sandalwood Museum 中国紫檀博物馆
高碑店建国路
Part of A Better Guide to Běijīng’s coverage of Běijīng Suburbs and Beyond
This privately-owned museum is in a modern building with traditional overtones, clearly marked 紫檀博. It’s officially graded AAAA — a seriously important attraction — but such gradings can be obtained through influence, and you’ll probably find it nearly deserted.
While the grand, five-storey museum displays in generous amounts of space both the finest quality traditional Chinese furniture of different regions and eras, often elaborately carved and inlaid with calligraphy in mother of pearl, and the most sprawling imaginable kitsch, it is principally a temple to the ego of its owner, Dr. Chén Lìhuá (Chan Lai-wa, 陈丽华). When she opened the museum in 1999 she was said to be the richest woman in China, in the mould of Imelda Marcos.
Her portrait appears on various walls, and there are displays of photographs of her with assorted occasionally dubious celebrities, including Chirac, Bush senior, and a puzzled-looking Henry Kissinger. Certificates are on display marking her generosity to Savannah, Georgia, and it may be only coincidence that her doctorate is an honorary one from the Savannah College of Art and Design and that she holds the keys to that city. She was worth US$6.1 billion in 2014.
In addition to samples of authentic furniture, which may be of interest to those thinking of shopping for reproductions, there are a number of works of original sculpture in wood, including a large piece of driftwood carved into the shape of a giant ginseng root topped with three figures representing happiness, a handsome salary, and longevity.
Finely carved tree trunks represent mountain pilgrimages, scurrying with stairways and wizened, walking-stick-toting figures, wildlife, and deities. There are copies of imperial thrones and models in red sandalwood of important buildings, such as a corner tower from the Palace Museum or ‘Forbidden City’, at 1/5th scale, and a 1/10th scale model of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests in the Temple of Heaven, made of teak clad in gold foil. A large model of a traditional courtyard house is matched by one of a princely mansion (see Princely Privileges).
An audio tour is available for ¥10 (¥100 deposit), or a live tour guide for ¥50 for an hour (up to ten people, ¥5 per extra person), but is not needed. Smaller, well-crafted models of thrones, etc., are available in the gift shop to take home.
▶ Zhōngguó Zǐtán Bówùguǎn, Jiànguó Lù 25, t 8575 2818, www.redsandalwood.com, 9am–4.30pm, Tue–Sun; closed over Chinese New Year. ¥50. m Gāobēidiàn (Bā Tōng Line, exit A, left stairs) and walk 3 mins W. b as for Examination Tablets museum. b to 高碑店桥东: 312, 312区间, 397, 475, 506, 摆站506, 666.
The Museum of Imperial Examination Tablets and markets with home furnishings are a walk to the south.
Next in Museums and Other Sights: Olympic Green
Previously: China Aviation Museum
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For discussion of China travel, see The Oriental-List.
