Fǎ Hǎi Sì 法海寺
石景山模式口东北
Part of A Better Guide to Běijīng’s coverage of Běijīng Suburbs and Beyond
The point of visiting this temple, other than its rather pleasant quiet obscurity, is that it was completed in 1443 and, despite having lost some of its halls, has murals covering the inside walls of its main Mahavira Hall. These murals, heavily influenced by the Táng, whose Buddhist images were often strongly Central Asian in style, show various Buddhas, bodhisattvas, and apsarases (flying, angelic creatures). There’s evidence of the work of 15 different hands, and the 550-year-old murals are still clear, even in the dim light. The substantial stone figures occupying the hall, wrapped in yellow shawls, have eyes that glow eerily in the dark. Unfortunately the temple and murals underwent a major renovation in 2009, since when a large fee has been charged to view the paintings.
A small hall to the left side has photographs of ancient religious inscriptions on rocks around China, and the four heavenly kings in the entrance gate are notable for being painted rather than statues and are also said to be Míng. Small octagonal stupas in the courtyard have columns of Chinese and Tibetan in parallel, and there’s a large bronze bell covered in Chinese and Tibetan.
Although recently repainted, the temple buildings, each higher than the other on a steep hillside overlooking the Capital Iron and Steel Works, have the forlorn, slightly abandoned air of somewhere that doesn’t generate enough revenue to make anyone care. But the murals are important, and a few specialist Japanese and Korean tour groups, interested in the passage of Buddhism to their own countries through the filter of China, come out here.
▶ Just beyond the W Fifth Ring Road in Shíjǐng Shān, off Móshì Kǒu Dàjiē, gps 39º56’36”N, 116º09’21.9”E, t 8871 3976, 9am–3.30pm. ¥20 (¥100 for murals). m Pínguǒ Yuán (Line 1, exit D), then b to 首钢小区: 运通112线, 运通116线, 336, 358, 396, 489, 摆站597, 597, 941, 959, 961, 972, 977.
Directions are the same as for the Tián Yì Mù: turn right just beyond the bus stop into a bustling market street, and left at the top, but then right along Móshì Kǒu Dàjiē (模式口大街), and take the first major left turn, at which you’ll see a sign for Chinese Medicine Hospital in English (法海寺 also appears in green characters on a lamppost on the right opposite the turning). The road climbs and narrows a little. At the T-junction turn right, and you almost immediately arrive at the temple steps.
On your way back going straight on at the T-junction rather than back downhill will bring to you Lóngquán Sì (龙泉寺), which is closed to the public but has a small, quiet, leafy tea house in its grounds, with tea from ¥80. More exotic teas cost ¥150–200 per pot. In 2016 the temple recruited a miniature robotic monk which answered questions and quoted sutras. When you return down hill, a right rather than left turn at the bottom will quickly bring you to the Tián Yì Mù.
The return to central Běijīng by bus is to stop 地铁苹果园站, and from there buses will take you to Tánzhè Sì and Jiètái Sì. Or take b 运通112 directly to the Běijīng Botanical Gardens and neighbouring sights, passing the Bā Dà Chù and Fragrant Hills Park.
Next in Běijīng Suburbs and Beyond: Císhàn Sì
Previously: Tián Yì Mù
Main Index of A Better Guide to Beijing.
For discussion of China travel, see The Oriental-List.
