Huáng Huā Chéng Great Wall 黄花城长城
Part of A Better Guide to Běijīng’s coverage of Běijīng Suburbs and Beyond
The site is popular despite the presence of large signs making it clear that climbing the Wall is illegal. Those farming here began by being unhappy about the damage done to their orchards by passing walkers, who cross a duck-filled stream on a makeshift bridge to pass through their land. But the farmers in many cases now make a decent income. A sign asks for ¥5 to maintain the nearby dam, but as the lady taking the money happily admits, it’s to compensate her for damage and theft of fruit. Further up another lady wants ¥3 for the same reason.
Brief sections here have now been rebuilt, and the farmers say the government will take the surrounding land without compensation. They will see none of the possibly ¥45 entrance fee, either. Meanwhile, other local farmers sell fruit from the back of tricycles, along with jasmine tea and firecrackers.
The Wall climbs steeply, swoops down again, and rises to an extended elevated ridge-top section of considerable beauty. Its surface bricks are in place but all loose, making for awkward and slippery climbs, but the balustrades to either side are intact for long sections, and several towers are also in above-average condition; others attractively overgrown.
In summer the Wall gives views of a sea of yellow wildflowers from which it takes its name, as well as down to the reservoir. Tradition has it that this late-Míng section is particularly well constructed, but the general in charge went over budget and was put to death by the emperor of the day. However, the construction quality was eventually recognised, and the general posthumously honoured.
The ancient walled village of Yǎozi Yù (鹞子峪, Sparrowhawk Valley) beneath the Wall here (3.3km further on; fork left onto the 352乡道 after about 2km; gps: 40°25’30.90” N, 116°19’10.47” E) was built in 1592 to house those constructing the Wall and subsequently maintaining it. It is one of the best-preserved of its kind, but now fewer then ten families are still resident. A walk on village walls looking down into tiny courtyards reveals almost no sign of modernity whatsoever; nor do the interiors of some recently abandoned houses. Even the tree in the middle of village is said to be over 300 years old.
▶ Huáng Huā Chéng Cháng Chéng, about 75km N of Běijīng in Huáiróu County, gps 44º 24.56’ N, 116º 20.21’ E, 24hrs. Free (but farmers make small charges for crossing their land), b As for Mùtiányù, then minibus; or bus 昌2 from m Nán Shào (Chāngpíng Line) 15 stops to 昌平北站 then 昌31 to terminus at 九渡河北. taxi See directions for Huáng Huā Chéng Shuǐ, but ignore final left turn into main entrance and go straight on 3.8km. 1.5hrs.
Past the turning to the Shuǐ version of the Wall the route winds prettily through the orchard-strewn Jiǔ Du Hé (九渡河, Nine Crossings River) area. Signs say, ‘Build the pretty mountains and rivers,’ but really suggest that they shouldn’t be despoiled. What you see is natural.
Next in Běijīng Suburbs and Beyond: Introduction to Tombs and Burial Sites
Previously: Huáng Huā Chéng Shuǐ Great Wall
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For discussion of China travel, see The Oriental-List.
