Jiǎnkòu Great Wall 箭扣长城

Note that the character in the name is not the usual kǒu (口), meaning ‘pass’, but kòu (扣), meaning ‘nock’ (the notch at the end of an arrow for holding the string). Perhaps the Wall’s steep rise and drop here makes it resemble the string of a drawn bow. Lying between Mùtiányù and Huáng Huā Chéng, this section is not (yet) officially open, but is well enough known that small Chinese tour groups come here (although that would theoretically be illegal without a special permit) as well as younger expats. This section of Wall is noted for its pale colour. There are little restaurants and trout farms clustered around the entrance, as well as a monstrous modern mock-château of a guesthouse offering, bizarrely, huǒ kàng (火炕) — traditional fire-heated brick beds. But there’s none of the tawdry high-pressure souvenir selling of many major sites.

It’s a stiff half-hour climb from here just to reach the Wall, with small fees payable to farmers whose land you cross en route. The Wall itself is both ruinous and vertiginous, and regardless of the claims of Sīmǎtái, is probably the most dangerous section currently being walked, or in this case climbed, by visitors. It is possible nevertheless to walk (climb, scramble) as far as Mùtiányù in four to five hours, but this is only for those who are fit, without fear of twisted ankles, and who have a good head for heights.

[Since 2017 there has been substantial rebuilding at this site, rendering it as single-mindedly inauthentic as Bā Dá Lǐng. According to claims in Chinese media 2.2km has been ‘renovated’ along with 11 towers, and another section with six further towers due for completion by 2020, before further ‘renovations’ to the south from 2021 onwards. Except for the attraction of the (for now) lower number of visitors, it’s probably time to look elsewhere.]

▶ Jiǎnkòu Cháng Chéng, 73km N of central Běijīng, around 10km west of Mùtiányù, in Huáiróu County, gps 39º 54.20’ N 116º 23.29’ E, 24hrs. Free (but farmers will charge ¥15 for crossing their land). b First follow the instructions for Mùtiányù, to the terminus at 怀柔汽车站. From there take a mid-size minibus (中巴, zhōng bā) to Xīnyíng (辛营), and then change to a smaller bus (小巴, xiǎo bā) to Zhēnzhūquán (珍珠泉). taxi A round-trip should be no more than ¥400, although fewer drivers will know this location.

See an introduction to The Great Wall for details of nine other Great Wall sites near Běijīng. See links below for other sights in Běijīng’s suburbs and beyond, or go to the Main Index of A Better Guide to Beijing (home page).

For moderated on-line discussion of China travel, see The Oriental-List.