Cowboy Core is More Than a Fashion Trend
It’s a shield for the frontier of an uncertain future
As someone who spent childhood summers traversing the Southern States, I always found cowboy attire amusing. The “Wild West” influence was ever-present in restaurants, activities, and cinemas, but wearing cowboy clothes felt somewhat absurd.
Yet, nowadays as I live across the ocean and far from my American roots, I’ve developed an unexpected obsession with cowboy fashion. My wardrobe overflows with boots, belts, and hats, and I even hosted an extravagant Western-themed birthday party, meticulously ensuring that every guest adhered to the theme. This made me wonder how this obsession with cowboy-adjacent aesthetics became a worldwide sensation.
It’s hard to trace when the “cowboy-core” trend all started. Some argue that it gained momentum gradually from 2022, driven by festival fashion at Coachella and Glastonbury and subtle nods on the fall 2022 runways. Others point to earlier influences such as the TV show Yellowstone and Lil Nas X’s hit song “Old Town Road,” which emerged around 2018–2019.
However, the trend reached new heights with Beyoncé’s album Cowboy Carter. The release resulted in a 24% spike in Western boot sales, according to market research firm Circana, showcasing the widespread appeal of cowboy culture.
“Cowboy-core” is more than just a trend in American society. Likewise, the global infatuation with cowboys is more than a desire to be “American”. To grasp this connection, we must revisit the history of cowboy culture in America.
While the American cowboy as we recognize him emerged in the 19th century, the roots of cowboy culture can be traced back to earlier Spanish and Mexican traditions.
In the 1500s, the Spanish explored and began settling in the Americas. They brought animals such as cattle and horses with them and built ranches. To manage these ranches, they trained men known as Vaqueros, a term derived from the Spanish word for cow, vaca. The Spanish used African, Mexican, Native American, and Spanish men for the job. These vaqueros were typically enslaved or paid very little for their tedious work.
The vaqueros were often pioneers in the land, and the original purpose of their clothes was to help them survive the harsh environment they encountered. Clothes were designed to allow movement, durability, and protection. Typically crafted by local artisans, family, and community members, vaquero clothing was made from leather, cotton, and wool.
Contrary to popular belief, cowboys didn’t wear jeans, as they were not invented until 1873 by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis, now famously known as Levi’s. Traces of this historical influence can still be seen in the most recognizable elements of cowboy attire today:
The cowboy hat
The cowboy hat is probably the most distinct piece of western wear. It is hypothesized that the cowboy hat drew inspiration from the wide-brimmed hats worn by the Vaqueros, more commonly known as the sombrero, given the hot and sunny climates they worked in.
The cowboy boot
Like the cowboy hat, the boot was designed to protect the vaqueros from hazards. From a practical standpoint, the pointed toe allows the foot to easily slip into the stirrup, while the low heel prevents slipping through the stirrup.
What happened to all the cowboys?
The efforts of Spanish missionaries in California and railroad construction in the 19th century expanded livestock practices and increased the demand for beef post-Civil War. These factors combined made the cowboy profession central to the American cattle industry during this period. However, the cowboy profession faced a decline by the mid-1900s. Harsh winters and privatized land led many cowboys to abandon the open trail in favor of private ranching.
So how does this all connect to a fashion trend?
It’s not merely about reclaiming the past but also about seeking comfort in simpler times. People often cling to familiar symbols in an era marked by significant political and economic shifts. Cowboys represent values of resilience and self-reliance, offering a sense of nostalgia and stability amid uncertainty.
Ironically, the cowboy lifestyle was far from idyllic or comforting. Yet, as we embrace cowboy fashion today, it might be more than nostalgia — it could symbolize our desire to shield ourselves from the unpredictability of the future. Fashion is a visual way to reflect social change. References and ideas conveyed by clothes can echo the context of an era.
Perhaps, as we step into unknown times, the cowboy boots we wear serve as a metaphorical shield, mirroring the courage of frontiersmen confronting the unknown. By embracing “cowboy core,” we recognize our journey into new and unfamiliar realms, hopefully, armed with the same resilience and spirit as those who blazed the trail before us.
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