Off the Mainland

a new home on Krangket Island

M.L.S. Roessler
a distant read
3 min readMar 8, 2016

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Our new house

A few weeks ago, Daniel and I decided to visit one of the many islands offshore Madang. We’d had Karkar in mind, but soon realized that would be a several-hour boat ride, so we settled on nearby Krangket instead.

As we waited at the boat stop, we got talking to a college student named Priscilla (pronounced Prishilla). She lives on the island and offered to show us around. As we wandered down the brown dirt paths through fields of waving palms, Daniel asked her whether anyone on Krangket might have a vacant house to rent.

Our interest wasn’t idle. We hadn’t yet signed the contract for our big suburban house in Madang and were in no hurry to do so. It was a big house, a solid house, and in a ritzy neighborhood, but it lacked that touch of flair…

Long story short — we moved! On a sunny Saturday afternoon, we crammed all our belongings into a few suitcases and loaded them onto a canoe. One windy ride later, we were home.

unloading the bags
Our new house —the other side

Krangket Island has no cars and no electricity. It’s wired, but a cable is broken … and has been for over two years. These privations are inconvenient to be sure, but ultimately so peaceful I’m able to be pretty zen about it. With no buzzing refrigerators or revving motors, the main sound I hear, all day, all night, are waves crashing against the shore. Wshhh wshhh like pulsing static, washing away the pecks of petty thoughts.

You know those meditative exercises, where people tell you to close your eyes and imagine walking down a long path that eventually leads you to some ideal sanctuary of calm and joy?

I don’t have to close my eyes.

view from the front door
view from the window

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