Discovering Cordoba
“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only a page”
St. Augustine.
Traditionally the sites are famous for and named after the cities and towns they are located in, but Cordoba, a popular tourist destination in the south of Spain is famed because of the Grand Mosque, a cultural canvas and historical landmark of the area. The mosque originally got its name from the town it was located in, but it was because of this mosque, la mezquita Cordoba, the town enjoys its ultimate fame. There is a lot to see in this small city but the focal point of identification, the Grand Mosque of Cordoba, is what makes the tourists flock there in great numbers. This relic breathes with the visitors who are there to step back in times of the past glory.
We undertook a two and a half hours long bus ride from Granada to this ancient city in the south at the foot of Morena Mountains, on the right bank of River Guadquivir. Otherwise an uneventful journey by a comfortable intercity bus, it was by all means an experience of sorts to see the Spanish landscape in the wild. There were miles and miles of olive plantation on the undulated stretch of land between the two historic cities. We savored the drive along the systematically planted olive groves presenting a breathtaking view. No other significant cultivation was to be seen en route.
A Roman Municipality since second century BC, Cordoba was conquered by Abdul Rahman 1 of Umayyad Dynasty in 711. It was a port city of great importance during the Roman occupancy; shipping olive oil, wine, wheat etc back to ancient Rome, through the Guadquivir River Port. Its hour of greatest glory was when it became the capital of the Moorish Kingdom of El Andalus, the Muslim Spain. The city dazzled with a civilized air and cultural activity and enjoyed a booming economy due mainly to its skilled artisans and advanced agricultural infrastructure. Muslims imported rich intellectual tradition from the Middle East and North Africa to make it the most sophisticated city in Western Europe. It was also the richest place after Baghdad in the Muslim Empire where learned men came from all over Europe to study advancements in science and literature during 11th and 12th centuries AD.
This 21st century city is a living expression of different cultures that have existed here over the centuries. A historical ensemble of extraordinary value, the city reflects thousands of years of occupation by different cultural groups; Romans, Muslims, Christians etcetera that all left their mark in its monumental richness and unique residential architecture. Known as the city of flowers since its inception, Cordoba is a blend of new and old buildings and infrastructure; magnificent underground modern Railway terminal, contemporary road network and maze of centuries old pebbled streets, new high rise buildings and centuries old historical relics in the shape of Grand Mosque, Alcazar de los Cristianos, a sumptuous Moorish palace, Roman bridge on river Guadquivir, a Roman temple, Calahorra Tower and others. All these juxtaposed structures, showcasing cultures and architectural styles of different eras, give the townscape a mixed flavour.
Founded by the Romans in second century BC this city attained its ultimate glory during the Muslim rule to rival the splendors of Damascus and Baghdad in the Muslim world and Constantinople in the west. When most of central and western Europe was plunged in utter darkness, Cordoba had running water, well equipped hospitals and libraries and taught these advancements to Europe. The 10th century urban Cordoba had well lit paved streets; indoor plumbing in public buildings and water closets in luxurious villas. There was an advanced irrigation system for agricultural purposes which the Romans also emulated. Cordoba, the most populous city of the time in the world, was an Islamic cultural centre in middle ages where hundreds of mosques and innumerable palaces existed and Mediterranean trade and cultural exchange flourished.
There is a lot to see in Cordoba but the Grand Mosque alone is enough to put Cordoba high on any traveler’s itinerary. This awe inspiring jewel of civilization was converted into a church after the fall of the Umayyad Empire in 1236 AD and re-named by the Christian rulers as Mezquita Catedral Cordoba, the Spanish for Mosque Cathedral of Cordoba. The word mosque is so etched in the present day Cordovans’ minds that they are often heard saying “I am going to the Mosque to hear the mass”. Largest in the world at the time, this mosque covering an area of 25000 sq ft had the capacity to accommodate 40000 worshipers. The hypostyle rectangular prayer hall has a forest of 856 columns of Jasper, onyx and granite; double arched for height, a richly gilded prayer niche or Mehrab and Quranic inscriptions on the walls. It is a masterpiece of architectural art with flowing geometric designs and coloured glass windows. It is an architectural hybrid joining many of the artistic values of east and west, especially double arches to support the high roof. Inspired by the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem the mosque was built in four stages, with each caliph and his elite contributing to its completion. The large open court yard surrounded by arcades and a fountain in the middle, is called Patio de los Naranjos (court yard of oranges) because of orchard of orange trees that replaced an earlier plantation of date palms. A four faced minaret, now converted into a bell tower, stands in the corner. Poet of the East Allama Iqbal visited the place in 1931–32, rendered adhan and offered prayers after a gap of half a dozen centuries. Muslims are not permitted by law to offer prayers in the mosque. 1.5 million tourists visit this place yearly. The magnificence and solemnity of this cultural landmark aroused deep emotional responses in us and that was the centre piece of our nostalgic trip to Cordoba. The only stigma related to this heritage site was the unsightly presence of a couple of beggars outside the Grand Mosque, a trade mark of Muslims.
While walking down to Plaza de las Tendillas a few hundred meters from our hotel, we noticed remains of a Roman Temple, unearthed while digging for the expansion of the City Hall in the 1950s. These excavations were aesthetically preserved, blending beautifully with the modern building structure of the City Hall. The temple built in the first century AD during the Roman rule was guarded by a protective fence and presented a pleasing look, especially under the lights. Plaza de las Tendillas, one of the two main squares of the city surrounded by brand stores and eateries, is a relaxing place to while away the time in the afternoon.
El Puente Romano, a Roman bridge across the river Guadquivir, links the mosque side of the city on the right bank to the Calahorra Fortress Tower guarding the overpass to the left. Built by the Romans in the early first century the bridge was reconstructed by the Arabs during the Muslim rule and has undergone more reconstructions over the centuries, maintaining the feel of the original structure intact. Calahorra, a fortified arched gate between two square towers, was built by the Arabs in 12 AD to guard the Roman Bridge. The building was restored in 1369 and a third tower was added to the existing ones in the shape of a cylinder connecting the two. The Tower houses Museo vivo de al-Andaus, a living museum that presents a cultural panorama of the medieval heydays of the city from 9 AD to 13 AD. It is an interesting place to visit to peep back in to history through the key hole of audio-visual aids. The River scene, with an uncouth look, is not very picturesque by the European standards as city’s garden waste is seen floating with the water.
Alcazar de los Cristianos, a lavish Moorish Palace has been preserved as a reminiscence of the royal residence of the Arab rulers in the city suburbs. There are a number of Alcazars in different Spanish cities. The word Alcazar is derived from the Arabic Al Qasar, meaning castle or palace.
Cordoba is known as the city of flowers but we did not see much of them during our visit to the place, perhaps because we visited the place in hot August instead of the flowery spring when the residents festoon their patios with flowers. Flowers or no flowers, Cordoba is a universal paradigm of concord between cultures where you feel millennia of history at every turn. Exploring this city, one goes in to the past relishing every bit of its cutting edge Muslim culture but though past is a nice place to visit, it certainly is not a good place to stay. After our brief but busy stay in Cordoba we drove back to Granada for onward journey back home.
Written by Dr. Shahid Qayyum
Published by Alisha Khuram
