Palace of the Peaks
An account of my visit to the magnificent mansion that may have been Jane Austen’s inspiration for Pride and Prejudice, Chatsworth Castle
Visiting the old residential quarters of the past rulers and nobility is always an exciting experience. It is like exploring a living museum depicting the way of life of these nobles in the times of yore. Topkapi palace turned museum, was one such place that was home to the Ottoman Sultans for four centuries. Overlooking Bosporus Sea in Istanbul this former palace is different from the European concept as it is built around four courtyards. Mughal palaces in the subcontinent were also built with a courtyard or two in the middle. Chatsworth Estate, home of the 12th Duke of Devonshire in the heart of scenic Derbyshire National Park, is a typical example where European palaces are different from those in the orient. Weather, local customs and conditions and social needs influence the architecture of the area.
I had read about the rulers of Bahawalpur State and had a pictorial view of their Italian design palatial buildings but as these palaces are not open to public I could not see the grandeur of their interior. Chatsworth Castle provided me with this opportunity and I enjoyed my trip to the 35000 acres vast Estate comprising of a thousand acre park and magical woodland. Rare trees and shrubs, miles of free walk, meandering streams, fresh water ponds and refreshing trail routes add further beauty and charm to this grand symbol of English Dukedom. A spectacular cascade runs at right angle to the main building. One of the Britain’s best loved historic houses and estates, this three hundred year old mansion was the location for the famous Hollywood movie Pride and Prejudice.
Nestled in the infinite parkland and backed by a tree covered hillside Chatsworth Castle, with its elegant façade, is also called Palace of the Peaks because of the nearby Derbyshire Peak District. It has undergone many face lifts in history from outside but it is the inside of the building with a spectacular display of silver and gold in its restored state apartments that make it an embodiment of old wealth and privilege befitting a duchy. The extravagantly ornamented state rooms, rich in fascinating ceramics and classic sculptures along with a vast collection of silver ware, help the visitors infer the social history of the 18th century British elite. It is the grandest expression of private wealth in the country dating back to Elizabethan age, boasting of the largest private collection of neo-classical art in the world telling the story of a single dynasty over twelve generations. As Britain’s first baroque palace it is also said to be responsible for a revolution in architectural design. Walking past different rooms one is overwhelmed by the entrepreneurial discernment that makes it a beacon among the present day historic houses. The present Duke, 12th in peerage, has an unmatched passion for modern paintings and sculptures and this house is showcasing this flair. There is a vast treasure of sumptuous furnishings, alabaster carvings and Italian sculptures decorating this magnificent palace whose interiors embody the baroque interpretation of the classical era. The purpose built sculpture gallery is a treat to watch.
“It is the grandest expression of private wealth in the country dating back to Elizabethan age”
A walk through the house unfolds grandeur of the living quarters. The bed rooms with their furnishings, the dining area rich in fine bone china crockery and gold and silver cutlery, the library with its large collection of books and the sculpture room displaying a wealth of masterpieces of renowned sculptors is what captivates the visitors during the tour of the premises. A statue of a female showing it attired as if in fine silk was classic. The Elizabethan age armour adorned the walls. An old gun hanging on a door panel turned out to be a painting. It was simply unbelievable.
The inner magnificence cannot steal the show from the garden and the surrounding park that have been so well kept by the owners. The Duke believes ‘landscape once ruined is gone forever, so a dale or a wood or a headland should be saved’. We visited the place in summers and British summers are in fact an extended spring, so to say. It is no mean task meeting the operational cost of the estate which comes to around 5.5 million Pounds per annum, 95% of which is met by half a million visitors touring the place. A souvenir shop and a restaurant facilitate the visitors after a long journey of over an hour from the nearby cities of Birmingham, Rotherham and Nottingham. The entry fee to the ‘gallery’ is about ten pound and this money is worth its while.
Written by Dr. Shahid Qayyum
Published by Alisha Khuram
