[Remote Year] Welcome to Cusco!

Even though I really loved the experience of living in La Paz and was lucky not to suffer too many consequences (we accumulated a laundry list of injuries & illnesses), I am a really big fan of Cusco.

Though inundated with tourists (and that means we’re also constantly bombarded with offers for tours & souvenirs), Cusco has a wonderful vibe that is both modern and historic / authentic.

Plaza de Armas and a college building above the plaza. [photos mine]

The architecture is a beautiful mix of colonial with Incan-inspired. Wiki confirms that “the capital of the Inca empire, Cusco, still contains many fine examples of Inca architecture, although many walls of Inca masonry have been incorporated into Spanish Colonial structures.”

The streets, with the exception of those around the main plazas, are very narrow — so much so that I’ve had to flatten myself against a wall to avoid a truck’s mirror taking me out. When walking on the 18-inch sidewalks, people are constantly stepping down into the street between oncoming cars to allow each other to pass. Yet I find it a pretty calm and low key experience, so far anyway.

(L to R, top to bottom): street art near my apartment, a “snake in the grass”! by our workspace, a tile mural map of the city near the main plaza, an example of the beautiful and ornate street signs, a less elegant local architectural example, a narrow street near my apartment in Recoleta, a cholita walking ahead of me one morning commute, and celebratory street decorations — flowers made of flowers? for a holiday on our first day here (Sunday May 1). [all photos mine]

Like La Paz, we’re at over 11,000 ft (3500 m), which means we’re still huffing and puffing around town and the many hills in Cusco. However, the air is noticeably cleaner and fresher here, to our great appreciation. I still have to use my super sexy cool bright red inhaler before working out and after some sets of stairs, but I am breathing easier here.

The restaurants here have been delicious, so when I’m not eating at home, I am really enjoying the cuisine around town. I have already had some delicious ceviche, a chicken + mushroom dish, wonton soup, burgers, and great cappuccinos.

Wonton soup at Kion, trout ceviche at Mutu, and mushroom chicken at Cicciolina.

Thanks to some Wiki skimming, I can tell you the following facts:

• Population is around 400,000 — and 2 million tourists visit a year
• Incan capital from 1200–1532, when the Spaniards arrived/invaded (linguistics!)
• Peru declared its independence in 1821
• In 1911, explorer Hiram Bingham used the city as a base for the expedition in which he rediscovered the ruins of Machu Picchu
• “Cusco has a subtropical highland climate. It has an ideal temperature for daytime comfort all year round.” For us, it’s warm in the sun during the day but quite chilly at night — no heat holds!

Our custom RY-made workspace in the historic center of Cusco — the staff set our workspace in an event hall of an old hotel. I’m on the left in black puzzling over something on my laptop. We have great internet here — it’s a great place to work! [photo credit: Jo Sprague]

Panorama from Limbus Bar, where we had our Welcome Party for the month on Sunday afternoon — beautiful views of the city and surrounding mountains.

Kissing Poncho the llama at our welcome party (so so so so soft) and the new Battuta cocktail at Limbus bar for the month (pisco, passion fruit, ginger ale, and adorable llamas!). I also really liked that the bar kept bottles in old TVs. [photos mine]

My housing this month is pretty great — I’m very happy to have been placed in one of the handful of apartments, which means I have a kitchen. When we arrived, there wasn’t much to work with (I think we may be the first occupants). Thankfully, I told Jason, our RY2 operations manager, and he hooked us up with a knife, cutting board, bowl, and utensils to complement the very small pot & pan and dishes we had. So I am enjoying some lovely egg breakfasts in my bathrobe yet again :)

My apartment— shared with 2 other RY2 Battuta ladies. I have a twin bed but it is so comfortable that I don’t care. Some people are in the “Penthouse” apartments on top, which really do have incredible views and even more comfy living furniture, but I can’t really complain about my digs this month.

All in all, Cusco is off to a wonderful start, and I’m excited for my Machu Picchu trip next weekend, a visit to Lima for the Remote Nation meetup with RY1 and RY3, and whatever else this month holds.

Katherine is a digital nomad, working remotely while she travels the world — living on the road since June 2014. She’s a member of Remote Year 2 Battuta, living around the world with 75 other digital nomads from February 2016 to January 2017.

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