Day 28.2
Ferreiros to Palas del Rei: 33 Kilometres
The road passed near agricultural buildings before reaching Toxibo, where we encountered a horrific odour. We nearly vomited. Our buffs were very handy along the Camino. Along this stretch, the Camino ventured through a few small communities.
We stopped at Bar Descanso del Peregrino, a small café in Gonzar, a little later. I drank pineapple juice while Wilma ordered a coffee. We both munched on junk snacks from our bags while we regained our strength. I visited the Iglesia of Santa María, although it was unimpressive. I felt the warmth while I prayed. We stopped again in the village of Castromaior, a kilometre later. We strolled around the town, breathed in the fresh air, and chatted with older people in the streets. Everyone else in the city was on siesta. Castromaior owed its name to Castro, meaning fort, one of the old gentlemen mentioned it to us. The path continued through the village. We re-joined the trail after the town. We followed the dirt path until we reached the centre of Hospital de la Cruz a couple of kilometres later. Wilma and I were thrilled, especially since we passed through several charming villages.
A field of mustard flowers was one of my favourite views near Ventas de Narón. Wilma took a fantastic photo of me in the middle of the area with my hands wide open. The village of Ventas de Narón was also the site of a pilgrim hospital. We talked and laughed about anything and everything as we walked through this village. We devoured sugary snacks and wondered why we were so hyperactive! A few minutes later, we passed a small chapel and a cement cross on the way out of Ventas de Narón.
I stopped at the cross, the highest point — 756 meters above sea level — of this section of the Camino. I tied my second Lebanese flag around the cross. It had my family names and signatures of pilgrims who touched my heart along the Milky Way. I felt compelled to leave this Lebanese flag there. While I did not know the height or significance of this spot, I later learned that it meant an awful lot to me spiritually and religiously.
I am not sure what made me choose this place correctly. I listened to my inner voice. God works without any doubt in mysterious ways. Great views over the valleys below were seen from this point.
Another descent led us to A Previsa and Os Lameiros, one of the highlights of our day. Os Lameiros had one of the most original, famous, and photographed stone crosses, the ancient Cruceiro. It was one of the few double-sided crosses. The crucifixion of Christ was represented on one side, while the other side depicted an image of the Virgin of Sorrows. Pilgrims left a range of items. There were a skull and bones on one side. Pilgrims placed a ladder, nail symbols, a pilgrim’s shoe, two walking sticks, and a photo of a couple on the opposite side. We saw all of this before we entered Ligonde. I was truly blessed to touch this cross.
Ligonde had a noble air in the cobblestone pavements. Wilma and I were told that at this point, the Camino reached one of the most technically challenging parts of the stage, as it departed on a very steep path. We stopped for a bite to eat at café Waldemar, one kilometre beyond Ligonde in Eirexe. This was our last pause before the final ten kilometres to Palas del Rei.
These later stages no longer hurt our bodies. The Camino strengthened us over time. Now we were accustomed to the strain on our bodies. The Camino de Santiago, The Way of Saint James, the Field of Stars, the Milky Way, the pilgrimage, the pilgrims, the auberges, and the Camino people became our transient, temporary home. We encountered the Church of Santiago on the way out of the village of Lestedo. I wrote on one of the walls: “N’ayez pas peur de prendre vos premiers pas vers le Chemin de Compostelle et laissez le reste à Dieu.” (Don’t be scared to take your first steps towards the Camino de Santiago and leave the rest to God.) It was quiet when we walked. Wilma and I were floating and looking forward to arriving at our Albergue.
Surprisingly, we were greeted by Thomas, our German friend from earlier on the Camino, in the final kilometre before Palas del Rei. As I mentioned before, we were always the last two pilgrims walking later in the afternoon. He walked with us to Albergue Castro, a new Albergue, then joined us for a coffee. He asked us where we headed the next day. I replied that we planned to walk forty-one kilometres to Salceda. He nearly choked. He thought we were mad. I told him: “Thanks for reminding us, Thomas, yes we are!” The three of us burst out in laughter.
Sonia, the owner of our Albergue, was a kind-hearted woman beyond words. She was hot and accommodating. She saw us as human beings with basic needs on a hard journey. Jorge and Toni were as kind and always watching and helped us with everything we needed. Albergue Castro had a spectacular restaurant where we ate well at low prices. Their bunk beds were very comfortable; they provided warm fluffy blankets, a clean pillow, and a sheet. Each bunk bed had a light and a phone charging outlet as well as a privacy curtain. The men and women showers were separated. We did not need to do any significant laundry beside the essentials. All our other items were clean. We ran to the nearby supermarket in our pyjamas and no bras after we showered. This gave us a boost of energy. We would never do that in Johannesburg. We felt free on the Camino. We bought many goodies for the next day, especially since it would be a long hike.
Our Albergue was filled with pilgrims having a great party. We ordered dinner, then went to bed. We had a long day ahead of us. I sent a voice note to my Lebanese number about my day. I was too tired to diarise it, and I prayed my rosary. Goodnight!
The highlight of Day 28: You are the way, the truth, the life. John 14:1–14
