Plitvice vs Krka lakes National Parks
Two day trips from Zadar
The Plitvice lakes is Croatian first and largest national park. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and covers almost 30,000 hectares. The waters flowing over the limestone and chalk have, over thousands of years, deposited travertine barriers, creating natural dams which in turn have created a series of beautiful lakes, caves and waterfalls. The main tourist area are 16 lakes and waterfalls considered by many a must-see in Croatia.
From Zadar bus station I bought a round trip ticket and took an 8:30 bus that arrived at 10:45 stopping at the first entrance and then the second. Most people start at the first entrance but my limited research suggested that the upper lakes near the second entrance were the most interesting so I started there. This proved to be a good plan because I’d later find myself going against traffic and having less crowds.
The upper lakes are a series of stepped water bodies cascading down among vegetation. At first I was impressed by the wood boardwalks that crossed over the running water, placing the pathway firmly in the landscape, but then these boardwalks became the viewpoints. In front of larger waterfalls there usually wasn’t a viewing platform so the pathway became clogged with tourists. Those stopping to take photo blocking the way and those trying to circulate, getting in photos.
The trails circle around some of the lakes but it is just wide enough for two people and most of the time those two people are oblivious to those behind. I wondered if I was having a bad day because I was almost on edge about not being able to get around people.
I came to an uncomfortable reconciliation today. It’s something that’s been bugging me for a while now, even before I started travelling and went to Greece. Hiking around the deep aquamarine green lakes surrounded by tourists but entirely alone I dove internally into the depths of my thoughts.
I’ve come to realize that I’m not interested in backpack travelling. I’ve come to acknowledge that I want nothing more than to be in Toronto buying a motorbike or an Element and to go on a road trip to the Maritimes. I spent the last week dreaming about road tripping. I’m more excited about that than what I’m seeing today and tomorrow. I want to join the van life and have the means of transportation to dictate the narrative of my adventure along empty back highways and forest service roads. I want to chase the sunrise from bluff to cape and watch the sunset between valleys and beachheads.
I realize that this come at the midpoint of my time traipsing through Europe but it’s also a final acknowledgment that I was never all that excited to backpack Europe. I came to Europe because my class was going to Greece and it’s a lot easier just to stay in Europe than to figure out how to buy a good car that’s not a lemon — especially when I was being kicked out of my residence anyways. But the classic backpacking Europe has never really appealed to me and I’m drawn elsewhere.
The Plitvice lakes are cool and beautiful in their own right and worthy of their UNESCO status as well as one of the top attractions in Croatia; but they’re not it for me. It’s a hard truth to reconcile that the more places I’ve been the less impressed I become. At first I was wowed by the boardwalks at Plitvice lakes because the water was right underneath. But the waterfalls don’t stand up to the Huanglong valley near Chengdu, China or the Columbia river in Oregon State. The first was the most beautiful waterfalls and pools I’ve ever seen and the second was a series of nondescript waterfalls along a glorious road trip. And it is this freedom I seek — to drive where I want without needing to plan, to camp when it gets late and see the stars, and to wake up in the morning with anticipation for where I’ll go next.
I’m in a bit of a pickle though, because I have one month left in Europe which I have to find a way to enjoy and appreciate. my plan is to return to Toronto for the first half of July to buy either a motorbike or a Honda Element. I now realize that acquiring either of those vehicles in the timeframe will be extremely difficult and will require a huge portion of luck. The motorbike I want, a Honda cb300r is a beginner bike but these are usually sold out of season. The Element is just rare. Neither appears on the market often and I hate compromise.
I wonder if I’d have a different opinion on backpacking if I could get back to Japan. In my eagerness to return, I even brought 20,000 yen that I had just in case the border opened and I could get a spontaneous flight. Unfortunately the border remains closed to tourists because of COVID and it looks like it will remain that way indefinitely. I’m also really tired of having hayfever and allergies everyday. A guy starts smoking during dinner and I’m rubbing my nose. Every time I go to bed I’m sneezing. A walk through the park and I’m blowing my nose. It just doesn’t end and I’m tired of it. I don’t know if Toronto would be any better but I didn’t think I’d have so many allergies in Greece or Croatia. I feel like I’m allergic to everything and it sucks.
The lower lakes was the busiest. To get there I took the free ferry boat across the largest lake One trip is included in the ticket and it saves probably a half hour walk. There are still plenty of lakes to walk around at the other end though and a cave to go through.
There are two interesting waterfalls: one called Sastavci and the other called Big waterfall. Both were impressive but neither was very photogenic. The pathway along Sastavci hugged the upper lip which made looking down difficult and the area in front of the Big waterfall was bush and somewhat distant. Oddly, the better vantage came from a viewpoint on the switchback to the entrance. This would be most peoples first view of the falls but it was my last.
I thought I’d be taking the 5 PM bus back but by 2:30 I’d walked most of the park so I took the 3:20 which was probably less busy.
I wasn’t planning on going to Krka National Park because from everything I’d heard it wasn’t as great as Plitvice. The next day I entirely disagreed.
Krka is halfway between Split and Zadar and the bus regularly stops on the way between the two. I took a 9:30 bus from Zadar and it was only an hour ride as opposed to the two hours the day before. On arriving in Skradin, the small town adjacent to the park I found out that one can take a boat in for 10 Kuna or walk. Since I knew I’d have a lot more time I elected to walk and had a good 45 minute walk in the canyon. The boat is definitely faster even though it comes once an hour and more relaxing but for one way walking was fine.
The waterfalls at Krka are wider and grandeur than Plitvice and more photogenic. There are plenty of platforms and viewing spots of each of the waterfalls as the path climbs up one side and descends back down the other.
As of last year it’s not longer allowed to swim at the base of the waterfalls but I’m okay with that. It would have been cool but I think it’s a good decision (made for safety) because it leaves nature untrampled and more photogenic.
The park is also proud of its heritage, starting a hydro electric turbine two days after Niagara Falls and having had a history of watermills. Some of these buildings still exist and there are exhibits to read about the history.
I was particularly happy that each viewpoint had a different vantage of the waterfalls and there were fewer people than Plitvice so getting photos was easier. Since the park is much smaller it only takes about two hours to see everything. I was going to take the boat back but I’d seen rally cars beforehand and thought I’d check out the hill climb by walking back. Unfortunately they were on break so I only got photos of the cars at the staging area in Skradin.
Overall I was much more impressed with Krka than Plitvice. It had better pathways, more interesting waterfalls, and history. It was closer and cheaper too. The only negative was that the washrooms cost 5 Kuna. Washrooms should always be free. I’m glad I went because there is surprisingly little to do in Zadar other than see the Sea organ and Greeting to the Sun.
Th Sea Organ is a really cool urban installation. It’s a series of steps along the waterfront to sit on, socialize, and swim from. Beneath the steps are a series of tubes partially filled with sea water. The continuous wave action moves the water in the tubes and forces air out through slots in the stair risers causing harmonic sounds.
When I first saw it during the day it seemed like it was missing something. The big empty plaza was hot under the 30 degree sun which made sitting for any period of time uncomfortable. Once the sun goes down however, the adjacent light installation comes to life. Greetings from the sun is a light display that illuminates the ground in patterns energized by solar panels. This draws a large crowd that activates the space and completes the waterfront.
There didn’t seem to be a lot of information on getting there by bus so here are my notes:
Plitvice Lakes
- From Zadar main bus terminal it cost 185 Kuna (34$ CAD) for a return ticket. The bus left at 8:30 and arrived at 10:45. There is also an 11:30 departure and probably more during the high season.
- The bus stops at entrance 1 and then entrance 2. The driver said a reservation was required, but I don’t know if that means talking to the ticket kiosk beside the bus stop even with a return ticket.
- Returns were 3:15 and 5:30.
Krka Lakes
- From Zadar main bus terminal it cost 131 Kuna (24$CAD) for a return ticket. There is a 9:30 and 11:30 bus. It takes 1 hour.
- The bus stops in Skradin, just outside the park and the pickup point is the same stop.
- There is a boat into the park that leaves Skradin every hour on the hour. It returns from the park every hour on the half hour. It cost 10 kuna each way.
- It’s possible to walk to the park but that takes 45min — 1hr so it’s better to just take the boat unless you’re really cheap or really want exercise.
- The bus back is 3:20 or 5PM.
