Cruising to Antarctica

Lisa Orange
Adventures with Bill and Lisa
3 min readFeb 10, 2020

It takes two days by sea from Tierra del Fuego to reach the White Continent. The Drake Passage, a narrow stretch of water separating South America from the Antarctic Peninsula, is notoriously rough, but we enjoyed calm seas and mild weather in both directions.

Port of Ushuaia; Le Boréal, Ponant fleet

Life aboard Le Boréal was pretty comfortable. We had a French chef, two restaurants, a spa, a good-sized room with a private balcony, WiFi (spotty, but not bad for such a remote location), and a New Year’s Eve party at sea where we celebrated our 26th wedding anniversary. Connor was among the few passengers who braved the (heated) on-deck swimming pool.

During our days at sea, we had lifeboat drills, collected our ship-issued parkas and boots, listened to talks by naturalists, and learned how to get into our dry suits.

On the first day of 2020, a Zodiac boat took us ashore at Neko Harbor.

Kayaking in Paradise Bay, later the same day, was a mesmerizing experience. The water was dark grey-green and mirror-smooth. It was silent except for the sounds from our kayaks and the sizzle and pop of floating ice. Occasionally we’d hear a sound like thunder; it was an icefall, usually distant, although we caught sight of one.

The sky was full of light. Sunrise was around 4 am, and sunset around 10 pm.

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