Langkawi

Langkawi Permata Kedah (Langkawi, the Jewel of Kedah) is an archipelago of 99 islands in the Andaman Sea, off the coast of mainland Malaysia.

Langkawi Island is a UNESCO World Geopark, and much of it has been left in a natural state for tourists to enjoy.

We stayed at The Datai, a beautifully minimalist resort where it was easy to relax on the beach, enjoy good food, and watch the wildlife.

On an evening walk with a naturalist, we saw a huge monitor lizard in a tree; several colugos, “flying” lemurs that glide between trees; wild boar; miniature short-legged fanged deer; and phosphorescent scorpions the size of a fingernail. We were fascinated by these tiny crabs that lurk under the beach, filtering organic material from seawater and spitting out sand to form intricate bubbles and whorls.

We exerted ourselves long enough to take a Malaysian cooking class with Chef Adee. He showed us how to to make a spicy salad with herbs and rice noodles and a delicious curry with jumbo prawns. Then we sat down to lunch!

The monkeys make themselves at home at the Datai, undisturbed by human visitors. They are dusky leaf monkeys, or spectacled langurs. Their fluffy, grey-black fur and white-ringed eyes give them a very appealing appearance. Twice we watched a troop enjoying the leaves in this planter, which we dubbed the salad bar.

One monkey came to our second-floor balcony to say goodbye — and see if we’d left the door open. (We were told they’d come right in and help themselves to your fruit bowl and your minibar.)