A Long Weekend in Sun Valley, Idaho — America’s Original Ski Capital
America’s original ski resort maintains the charms of a bygone era but definitely isn’t stuck in the past.
Photographs by Caroline Tompkins
Ski culture runs deep in this idyllic valley in the shadow of the Rockies — after all, the world’s first chairlift was installed here in 1936. Sun Valley’s history is part of its appeal. During the resort’s 1940s to 1960s heyday, Hollywood’s elite (Clark Gable, Lucille Ball) visited its slopes. Meanwhile, some who couldn’t afford rooms at the Sun Valley Lodge, like legendary ski filmmaker Warren Miller, are said to have camped out in the parking lot for their powder fix.
“The quirky combination of ski-bum characters alongside sophisticated locals, transplants, and visitors sets Sun Valley apart from other mountain towns,” says Airbnb Superhost Anna Mathieu. “It’s a bit remote, but once you’re here, you’ll love the friendly people and access to so much beauty and recreation.” And in today’s era of corporate conglomerates, Sun Valley is one of the few remaining privately owned resorts. Its independent spirit permeates nearby towns Hailey and Ketchum, where snow reports dictate daily schedules. After a flight into Hailey’s Friedman Memorial Airport (which offers connections to several major cities), you’ll be just 14 miles from the action. Here’s how to make the most of a long weekend.
“The quirky combination of ski-bum characters alongside sophisticated locals and visitors sets Sun Valley apart.”
Day 1
The slopes are still the destination’s biggest draw. A combination of mellow, machine-groomed trails at family-friendly Dollar Mountain and 3,400 feet of sustained fall-line skiing on Bald Mountain make the resort’s two ski areas accessible for both beginners and pros. But first, energize with cinnamon brioche French toast at the log cabin–housed Kneadery restaurant. Mountain Rides, a complimentary bus service, will transfer you in five minutes from downtown Ketchum to the River Run base area of “Baldy,” where a gondola shuttles you to mid-mountain.
“On a good powder day at most resorts, you’re stuck at the bottom looking up at the line you want, but not here,” says Andrew Gilbert, head coach of the Sun Valley Snowboard Team. With one of the highest per-person uphill lift capacities in the country, you’ll be lapping runs rather than waiting in lines. Ride the Christmas Chair to the top and acclimate your legs on blue-rated groomed runs before heading to Seattle Ridge, where you can schuss runs named for Olympic medalists including Picabo Street. Seasoned skiers can look forward to more challenges in the winter 2020–’21 season, when the resort opens 380 additional acres of skiable terrain.
The food is just as impressive. Local skier Gabe Schroder recommends refueling at Lookout Day Lodge after a big morning of long vertical runs in the bowls. “The tacos here will keep you going well into the afternoon,” he says. Pop into Seattle Ridge Day Lodge to warm up by the massive stone fireplace.
After a few more runs, you’ll have earned your dinner. Book in advance to score a table at the historic Roundhouse. Locals recommend the fondue for two or the cheddar-topped bison chili, especially if you plan on hitting popular dive bar Grumpy’s for après drinks. Or you can treat achy muscles to a soak in the outdoor saltwater hot tub at Zenergy Spa, with its Baldy views.
Day 2
To fully appreciate the natural beauty that drew Ernest Hemingway here in the 1940s and ’50s, venture deep into the wilderness. The 23-mile drive north on Highway 75 from Ketchum to the once-thriving mining town of Galena takes in snow globe–worthy landscapes of frosted pines. From Galena Lodge, strap on cross-country skis and explore more than 30 miles of groomed Nordic trails. More adventurous skiers can head into the backcountry with Sawtooth Mountain Guides (lessons available on-site).
“Perfect grooming, dog-friendly trails, insane mountain views, and consistent bluebird days make skiing at Galena unbeatable,” says Sloan Storey, a former Nordic racer and a coach at the Sun Valley Ski Education Foundation. The adrenaline rush of trails like Psycho and Rip n’ Tear drew Storey into Nordic skiing. The Harriman Trail, with its vistas and easy rolling terrain, is what she yearned for in her college training days, she says. No matter which path you follow, you’ll likely have your own private Idaho to play. But if you’re craving company, ask to take Frankie or Bandit, the lodge’s loaner dogs, on the trails.
After a morning of snowy gliding, you’ll be craving lunch. Rustic Galena Lodge serves hearty home-cooked fare, including lamb burgers and veggie curry bowls. Expect colorful characters — even the seniors will be bragging that they’ve logged 20 miles and are heading back out to lay down more tracks.
It’s worth driving another hour north along Highway 75 for a soak at Sunbeam Hot Springs. These natural thermal pools on the bank of the Salmon River offer views of Salmon-Challis National Forest. Back in Ketchum, get spiffed up for a night out (jeans and a Patagonia jacket are the equivalent of black tie here). The Sun Valley Center for the Arts gives the small community big-city culture cred, bringing in impressive exhibitions and outdoor installations. Catch a show, then grab a bite up the road at Enoteca. Try the wood-fired Mercantile pie with lamb sausage and smoky mozzarella, paired with a glass of Barbaresco.
“Dollar Torchlight Parade & Fireworks is one of my favorite holiday events. At the ice rink behind the Sun Valley Lodge, you might run into an Olympic star. After dark at the Torchlight Parade, skiers illuminate the mountain with a serpentine glow.”
— Anna Mathieu, Airbnb Superhost
Day 3
Hailey, a small town 11 miles south of Ketchum, is the embodiment of nostalgia. “When I first moved here over 20 years ago, Hailey was little more than a speed bump on the way to Sun Valley or the Sawtooth Mountains,” says Mike McKenna, author of fly-fishing guide Angling Around Sun Valley. Since then, the population has boomed, and this bedroom community for Sun Valley Resort isn’t such a sleepy mountain town anymore. “The restaurant and bar scenes have exploded along Main Street,” McKenna says. “But the big appeal is still the easy access to outdoor activities. I can literally walk out the back door and enjoy our section of the Northern Rockies every day of the year.”
Even in the coldest months you’ll see diehards fly-fishing the Big Wood River, which cuts through town, and journeying by Nordic skis on the 20-plus-mile Wood River Trail that hugs the riverbank from Bellevue to Sun Valley. Grab a locally roasted espresso and an egg burrito to go at Black Owl Coffee. Rent two big wheels at Sturtevants, one of the country’s oldest ski shops, and head to Quigley Nordic trails to discover why fat bikes are the most exciting way to explore the hillsides lining the canyon. Many Friday and Saturday nights involve cheering for the semipro Sun Valley Suns, the local hockey team, at Hailey’s Campion Ice House. “When the Suns play a Black Diamond League rival like the Jackson Hole Moose, people pack the rink to root them on,” says McKenna.
For a change of pace, head to family-run CK’s Real Food for grilled Idaho trout and radicchio salad, then catch a live show. For a mountain town, Hailey boasts a surprising music scene. In the 1990s, musicians like B.B. King stopped en route to glitzy Sun Valley to perform at Bruce Willis’s nightclub, the Mint. Hailey residents Jenni and Paul Conrad recently reopened the storied venue after it was shuttered for a decade. They’ve improved the cocktails (try the Sweet Caroline: Sun Valley’s Warfield No Return Gin, fresh lemon juice, and lavender syrup), but the vibe remains. “Bands want to play here because of the history,” says Jenni. “Locals come for the music but also for the sense of community. We needed a place to come together to eat, drink, and rock.”
About the author: Jen Murphy is a freelance journalist based in Boulder, Colorado. She writes the weekly “What’s Your Workout” column for the Wall Street Journal and regularly contributes to publications including Outside, Town & Country, the Houston Chronicle, Men’s Journal, Departures, and Food & Wine. An avid yogi, she is the author of The Yoga (Man)ual. Follow her on Instagram.
