Berlin: A Local’s Family Guide
This sprawling metropolis is surprisingly family-friendly. Here’s the best way to see it with your crew in three days.
Photography by Antony Sojka
As you might expect from a country that invented the concept of kindergarten, Germany’s capital is among the most kid-friendly big cities in Europe. Think whimsical playgrounds in practically every neighborhood, Eis (ice cream) shops on seemingly every corner, and an efficient, stroller-friendly public transportation system that’s free for children five years or younger. It’s a good idea to purchase day tickets, which allow for unlimited bus, train, and tram rides — and if your kids are proficient at pedaling, plan on some biking time too.
Day One: Bike rides through royal hunting grounds, the zoo, and a kid-friendly biergarten
One of the best spots to explore on two wheels is the Tiergarten, the city’s green lung. (You can rent bikes, child seats, and helmets from Bike Rent & Bike Tours at Europa-Center on Tauentzienstraße; reserve online.) The scenic, 520-acre property is the former hunting ground of Prussian royalty; Frederick the Great opened it up to the public in 1740.
From there, it’s a quick jaunt to the Berlin Zoo, the oldest in Germany, and home to elephants, giraffes, gorillas, and giant pandas. When your group has had its fill of animal encounters, head through the park to lunch by the lake at Café am Neuen See. One of the city’s prettiest Biergartens, it’s also among the most kid-friendly, with plenty of outdoor space for littles to run around in and even a large sandbox stocked with toys. Be sure to try the Flammkuchen, a flatbread topped with crème fraîche, thinly sliced onions, and lardons.
From here it’s a 10-minute ride to the east side of the park to visit some of the city’s best-known historical landmarks. Start at the Reichstag, where Germany’s parliament holds its meetings. The glass dome and roof terrace at the top offer 360-degree city views. (Be sure to register online ahead of your visit.) Continue to the Brandenburg Gate — completed in 1791, the monument later became a symbol of the city’s unity after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. Across the street, where 2,711 concrete slabs rise up a sloping plain, is the incredibly moving Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, honoring victims of the Holocaust.
Before returning your wheels, loop back around into the Tiergarten for a 10-minute ride past Schloss Bellevue, the official residence of Germany’s president. Wander through the nearby English Gardens, where a lovely Teehaus offers classic high tea with scones and sandwiches, plus outdoor concerts every Sunday in the summer.
After resting up, take the crew for dinner at Capt’n Schillow, a unique eatery that overlooks the waterways crisscrossing the city. It’s housed on a permanently anchored ship on a quiet section of the Landwehr Canal, and it serves a crowd-pleaser kids’ menu (spaghetti, fish sticks) along with seafood like smoked herring served with dill potatoes, a German staple.
Day Two: Children’s opera and a fountain of fairytale characters
There are lots of child-centric neighborhoods in Berlin, but none more so than Prenzlauer Berg in the northeast. With charming children’s boutiques and toy stores (don’t miss the clothes and trinkets at d.nik), casual coffee shops and restaurants (pop into Kaffee Käthe for coffee to go), and plenty of parks, it’s not only a fun stop but also an ideal home base for visiting families.
Betty’n Caty is a good bet for breakfast; there’s something for everyone on the menu (the French toast made with a croissant and topped with yogurt and berries is particularly delicious), they offer several gluten-free options, and have colored pencils on-hand for kids. It’s just across the street from Park am Wasserturm — named for the historic water tower at its center, it also includes a fantastic playground perfect for a post-French toast runaround.
From here it’s a short stroll to Prenzlauer Allee and the M2 tram to UNESCO World Heritage site Museum Island. Of the five museums, the Pergamon is the best-known and also the most interesting for kids, with large-scale installations of ancient buildings like the Ishtar Gate of Babylon. The Neues Museum offers family-friendly exhibitions, too, including an Egyptian one that includes an iconic bust of Nefertiti.
Just across the Spree River, kids ages eight and up can explore the Deutsches Historisches Museum via audio guides that include tales of knights, kings, and other citizens of medieval Germany. (For all museums, it’s a good idea to purchase tickets online to skip the queue.) A short, pretty walk away, the Komische Oper Berlin offers musical performances recommended for kids four and older, such as The Musicians of Bremen children’s opera season.
If it’s a Saturday, head back to Prenzlauer Berg for the farmers’ market on Kollwitzplatz. Beyond fresh produce there are also crafts and food stalls serving fresh Schmalzkuchen (donut holes sprinkled with powdered sugar), currywurst (a Berlin specialty of pork sausage topped with curry ketchup), and gözelme (a Turkish pastry stuffed with cheese and spinach or minced meat).
Spend the rest of the day strolling the independent shops on the surrounding streets. A few favorites: Me & My Mum on Marienburger Straße, for a well-edited selection of kids’ clothes; Renas Haus on Rykestraße, for stylish Scandinavian home goods; and Spooning Cookie Dough bar on Kollwitzstraße, for sweet, decadent scoops in flavors like rocky road and chocolate peanut. On Wörther Straße, you can browse the stacks at one of the city’s best English bookshops, Saint George’s. If your crew still has some stamina, take a 10-minute walk to Volkspark Friedrichshain, the oldest public park in the city. Stroll past the beautiful Märchenbrunnen (Fountain of Fairytales) to view sculptures of famous characters like Puss in Boots and Cinderella, then follow the path to the main playground, where the kids can speed down a zip line. Cap off the day at Schoenbrunn, a bit further down the path — it’s an Austrian restaurant overlooking the park pond that makes an excellent and authentic Spätzle (noodles with cheese).
Day Three: Hands-on science and trains
Start your day on the west side of the city at Charlottenburg Palace — the largest in Berlin — which was commissioned by Sophie Charlotte, the wife of Friedrich I, Elector of Brandenburg. Older kids will enjoy the 30-minute walk through the lavish rococo- and baroque-bedecked rooms, and little ones can wander the vast gardens. The palace’s Orangerie also hosts classical music concerts throughout the year.
Next, head to the Deutsches Technikmuseum, dedicated to the history of German science and technology. It’s a particularly great choice for train lovers; rows and rows of cars and engines are on display in the railroad house, and most exhibits include hands-on elements for kids.
In the late afternoon Gendarmenmarkt is a perfect place for drinks at one of the open-air cafés. Kids can run around the square, while adults can take in the striking architectural trio of the French and German churches and the Konzerthaus music hall. From here it’s a short stroll past the iconic Berliner Dom cathedral to end your visit on a sweet note at Waffel oder Becher, which serves up artisanal ice cream and a menu of fresh waffles with unique toppings like the Tipsy Goat, topped with goat cheese and brandy-dipped apricots.
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About the author: Leigh Crandall is a journalist and author who lives in Berlin with her family.
