A Locals’ Guide to Europe’s Top Holiday Markets

From fondue in Switzerland to Celtic jewelry in Scotland, discover the best buys at four beloved winter markets.

Anna Davies
Airbnb Magazine
4 min readNov 27, 2019

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Illustration by Lorenzo Gritti

Snow-covered kiosks. Red-cheeked ­revelers. The aroma of roasting meat in the air. From late November through early ­January, artisans and food purveyors set up shop in European town squares and parks to create temporary winter wonderlands. At first glance, it may seem like every market peddles the same mulled wine and handmade ornaments, but locals reveal the quintessential fare and distinctive finds to seek out at four of Europe’s most festive market scenes.

Nuremberg, Germany: Christkindlesmarkt

The centuries-old Christkindles­markt (open through December 24) “is still pretty old-school,” says Joe Holler, an Airbnb Experience host who leads a Christmas market tour. “It emphasizes the city’s romantic, medieval atmosphere.”

Drink
The ­Gerstacker family has had a presence at the market for over 50 years, but they’ve never revealed the recipe for their blueberry Glühwein, a spiced hot wine. “I also like white Glühwein, which isn’t as sweet,” says Holler.

Eat
About the size of an index finger, an original Nuremberger sausage only gets the moniker if it’s made within city limits. The marjoram-spiked flavor bombs are usually layered three to a bun and often topped with punchy mustard or horseradish.

Buy
The Nuremberg prune man, or Zwetschgenmänn­chen, a beloved figurine made with dried fruits, corks, and wires, is a market staple in the city, which has a long toy-making history.

Budapest, Hungary: Christmas Fair at the Basilica

“Walking around, you can forget your to-do lists and let this magical time of year charm you,” says Airbnb ­Experience host Petra Kardics, who runs a Budapest Christmas tour. Her favorite market is located in St. Stephen’s Square and open through New Year’s Day. “There’s an ice rink, and after sunset, they project a 3-D animation on the hour.”

Drink
Try pálinka, a traditional fruit brandy. “Careful. Pálinka is strong — around 80 proof,” says Kardics.

Eat
“We often eat stuffed cabbage around the holidays: ground meat and rice wrapped in sour cabbage and cooked with ­paprika powder,” says Kardics, who likes it with sour cream and bread.

Buy
Hungary is known for intricate lace and hand-painted wooden objects, but locals love “hairy Hungarians,” quirky cartoon renderings of pups specific to the country (like the mudi, a shaggy herding dog), often depicted on T-shirts and accessories.

Basel, Switzerland: Adväntsgass im Glaibasel

While there are several markets within walking distance of each other, Airbnb Experience host Stephanie Grenier, who runs an Old Town and chocolate tour, suggests starting at the Adväntsgass im Glaibasel ­market on Rhein­gasse (through December 23). “To me, it’s slightly more hipster, and more relaxed, as it’s rarely crowded.”

Drink
“Glüehwy [mulled wine] is the main beverage at the holiday markets here, but you’re in Switzerland — why not opt for hot chocolate instead? The best is found at the hut of Confiserie Sprüngli at nearby Barfüsserplatz market,” says Grenier.

Eat
“I recommend the Chäsbängel, a whole-grain bread filled with fondue cheese. It’s ­basically the very Swiss, cheesy ­version of a hot dog,” Grenier says. “If you’re not used to it, it can be a mess!”

Buy
“Candle-­dipping is an old tradition at the market in Basel. I’d say no visit is complete without it,” says Grenier. Swing by one of the tents to create your very own beeswax tapers.

Edinburgh, Scotland: East Princes Street Gardens

You’ll find the capital’s main Christmas market at East Princes Street Gardens, a park in the shadow of Edinburgh ­Castle, through January 4. Before hitting the stalls, take a spin on the Star Flyer, a ride offering bird’s-eye city views.

Drink
At Johnnie Walker Bothy Bar, try whisky cocktails like the Hot Headed and Red Blooded (Johnnie Walker, cranberry and blood orange juices, and ginger syrup). “The Bothy is a great spot to warm up by a log fire,” says Katie Roddam, a tour guide in Edinburgh.

Eat
“Mimi’s Bakehouse is a household name here, and their stall is a must-stop for mince pies,” says Roddam. She also recommends the notorious Scottish dish of haggis: savory pudding cooked in a sheep stomach.

Buy
For a departure from the typical tartan, look for quaiches. These shallow, two-­handled drinking cups are an integral part of Scottish ­tradition. Roddam also suggests perusing Celtic jewelry and handmade ceramics.

About the author: Anna Davies has written for The New York Times, New York, The New York Post, Elle, Cosmo, Glamour, and CN Traveler. She lives in Jersey City with her daughter and shares their adventures and travel hacks on Instagram. Next trip on the calendar: A few days in Split, Croatia, followed by a multi-city train trip that ends in Pisa, Italy.

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Anna Davies
Airbnb Magazine

Anna Davies is a digital strategist in Jersey City who has written personal essays for The New York Times, The Cut, Salon, Elle, Refinery29, Glamour and others.