The Insider’s Guide to the Smokies
From eastern Tennessee to western North Carolina, a string of magical mountain towns full of outdoor adventures, jammin’ music, and fun awaits.
Illustrations by Derik Hobbs
Photographs by William Mebane
A Dolly Parton impersonator, a mountain biker, and a bird biologist are just a few of the Smokies locals we tapped for tips to help you find the unexpected side of this well-loved region. Read on to discover all of their secrets, or jump straight to intel on the outdoors, shopping, Dollywood and family-friendly fun, music, and food and drink. Get ready to take to the hills!
Where to stay
Family reunion? Get a cabin in Wears Valley, which has big homesteads and log cabins, right in between popular Gatlinburg and low-key Townsend.
Just you and the kids? Stick within a mile of the Parkway in Pigeon Forge. Most of the attractions are here, along with a $2.50 trolley to Dollywood from Patriot Park.
Adventurous duo? Snag a cottage in Waynesville to be near untapped trails and trout-stocked streams, and within 45 minutes of Asheville’s happening nightlife.
The Great Outdoors
Something about the Smokies feels grounding. “I used to think I was biased, but after meeting people from all over who say the same, I know these mountains — among the oldest on earth — have a pull,” says Airbnb host C.J. Morgan. She believes North Carolina’s Eastern Band of Cherokee tribe has much to do with it. “Their roots predate the United States: They’re a big part of our culture.”
Though Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP), 522,000 acres of forest that straddle two states, is the most visited in the park system (about 11 million come through yearly), locals have been able to sustain their colorful identity — they still pick, carve, and distill, continuing centuries-old traditions in this slice of Appalachia where backcountry grit blends with Southern hospitality. While there’s tons of touristy kitsch along U.S. 441, a.k.a. the Parkway, know that to get the full story, you’ll have to push deeper into the hills. “It doesn’t matter how many Ferris wheels are built,” says Morgan. “People still come here to see the mountains.”
Sports Center
With the Great Smoky Mountains National Park as your backyard, hundreds of miles of rivers and trails are all the entertainment you need.
Ride the Mountains
Smokies locals are an outdoorsy bunch. Everyone’s into hiking, fishing, kayaking — and mountain biking is gaining ground since the 2017 introduction of Fire Mountain Trails in Cherokee, North Carolina, home to the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians. Despite being a gateway community for the park, the town’s big draw has been the tribe’s casino. Now a new generation is eager to show off the area’s natural assets. “The trails are designed to have minimal impact on the forest,” says host David Nestler. “You can fully appreciate its beauty as you ride under tall sourwood trees, past rhododendron tunnels, and over spring-fed creeks.” Minutes from downtown, the trails (also ideal for hikers) pack newbie-friendly and hard-core loops into 10.5 miles of twisting routes that can be mixed and matched. Nestler, who learned to mountain bike on Fire Mountain, says first-timers shouldn’t be deterred. “Even with the hills, you can push through, knowing what goes up must come down — that’s the fun part.”
Saddle Up
Kent Cranford, owner of Motion Makers Bicycle Shop, tells you how to get rolling.
Get your gear
“We’re two miles from the trail. Bikes start at $25 for a half day, up to $75 for all-day rentals of the high-end bikes. Helmets are included.”
Plan a route
“Tinker’s Dream is for beginners. Add on Lazy Elk to Spearfinger to Waya and down on Uktena for a solid intermediate ride.”
Reward yourself
“Wize Guyz Grille, near the shop, has huge pizzas, stays open later than other spots, and is one of the few places that serves beer.”
Natural Wonder: See A Super-Fly Light Show
For two weeks in late spring, the Smokies are one of the few places worldwide where lightning bugs twinkle in unison — a rare mating ritual. You may get lucky and spot the synchronous fireflies on your own (try Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest), but it’s not likely. “They tend to hang in remote woods under total darkness,” says host Angie Guy Leatherwood. The park’s tours are on a lottery system and crowded. Go with Cataloochee Valley Tours for “a wilder, authentic experience.”
Wet and Wild
The area is overflowing with opportunities for fun in, on, and around the water. Here’s where to do what.
Paddle Nantahala River, Bryson City: “It’s world-famous for its class II and III rapids. Be warned: The water is freezing.” — Host and engineer David Nestler, Sylva, NC
Splash Around Spruce Flat Falls, Townsend: “The 30-foot waterfall near Tremont isn’t marked on most maps, so it’s rarely crowded.” — Host, health coach, and aspiring farmer Rachel McCroskey, Walland, TN
Fly-fish on Little Pigeon River, Canton: “You’re guaranteed to catch trout above Lake Logan on the West Prong section.” — Host and event coordinator Angie Guy Leatherwood, Waynesville, NC
Canoe Little River, Townsend: “Millions tube Little River, but few go farther down, where you can canoe. Rent with River Johns Outfitters.” — R.M.
Tube Oconaluftee River, Cherokee: “It’s much quieter than Deep Creek, where everyone and their brother goes.” — Host and grant coordinator Nonah Millsaps
Jump In Skinny Dip Falls Swimming Hole, Canton: “Clothing is not optional, but the water is cold, deep, and crystal clear.” — D.N.
A Five-Second Guide to Birding
At the U.S.’s most biologically diverse national park, you’ll see loads of feathery creatures. Host and nature buff Keith Watson, who leads a birding experience, says this on-the-rise hobby “gets you to slow down and tune in.” Look for these winged beauties.
Black-Capped Chickadee
“Almost identical to the Carolina chickadee, with a distinct black cap and white cheeks, except they hang above 4,000 feet and have a slower chick-uh-dee-dee call.”
Blackburnian Warbler
“Warblers arrive in spring. Blackburnian — a showy thing with a flaming-orange throat — is best seen in wooded, high-elevation areas, same as the chickadee. Check around Spruce Fir Nature Trail.”
Barred Owl
“One of our 60 permanent bird residents, the owl has a call that sounds like ‘Who cooks for you?’ Spot it around Cades Cove.”
Hit the Trails
Avid trekkers dish on the best hikes on both sides of the park.
In North Carolina
Crowd-free: “Panthertown Valley is a drive, but you get 6,000-plus acres almost to yourself. Do Little Green Mountain for long-range views.” — D.N.
Dog-friendly: “Big East Fork Trail, near Canton, runs parallel to a river, so pups stay hydrated and cool.” — D.N.
Easy and scenic: “A half-mile hike on Art Loeb Trail leads to Black Balsam Knob, a meadow with 360-degree views and wild blueberries in season.” — A.G.L.
In Tennessee
Crowd-free: “Low Gap Trail to Mount Cammerer is tough, but you might not see a soul, and it has the best fall colors.” — K.W.
Dog-friendly: “Gatlinburg Trail is one of only two trails within the national park that allow dogs.” — C.J.M.
Easy and scenic: “Injun Creek Trail in the quieter Greenbrier section is gentle and has lots to see: bridges, old homesites, wildflowers, streams.” — K.W.
Cool Mountain Town: Sylva, North Carolina
“Unlike other places that run on tourism and second-home owners, Sylva is a real community where locals live and work. The nearby university makes for a younger, more progressive population and a fun social scene. I’m always running into friends at breweries, the farmers’ market, and any number of free events. The town is small — about 2,700 people — but not sleepy, and there’s been an influx of awesome new businesses recently. Guests often say they want to move here, and I don’t blame them.” — David Nestler, Sylva native
Stops to Check Out
Noon: Opened in 2018 by a textile artist and a woodworker, this tiny boutique is helping foster the next generation of southern Appalachian makers with its curation of minimalist-chic pottery, prints, and leather knickknacks. “It’s on Mill Street, which is undergoing a revitalization.”
The Cut Cocktail Lounge: At Sylva’s pioneering cocktail joint, housed in a former barber shop (hence the name), you might catch a surf-rock band one night and walk into a Patsy Cline singing contest the next. It’s also “the kind of place where you sit at the bar and get to know your neighbors.”
City Lights Bookstore and Café: “Even when I was growing up and the town was much smaller, the bookstore was there. I’m always picking up something from the staff’s picks or the wildlife section. The café came along a little later, but it’s equally iconic. People love the Sunday brunch there.”
Jones Country Store: On Main Street, 82-year-old Marion Jones holds court over a museum-like collection of wooden planes, 1900s town mailboxes, and other memorabilia. “On weekends, people sit around in rocking chairs and listen to him tell stories of the relics, many of which are from the area.”
Raising the Bar: Innovation Brewing
Craft breweries may just be the backbone of western North Carolina’s social scene, and the tiny town of Sylva can boast three taprooms within walking distance of one another. But it was Innovation Brewing that paved the way when it opened in 2013. “I’d argue that they rival anything happening in Asheville,” says Nestler. The owners, who migrated from Asheville, started out with limited funds, a scrappy work ethic, and a desire to give Sylva something it was lacking: an after-hours place for locals to gather. “Since the beginning, we wanted to be a resource for the community,” says co-owner Nicole Dexter.
As they’ve grown — now there’s a food truck with killer burgers, live music three nights a week, and a new locale complete with a sprawling deck overlooking Scott Creek — the town has blossomed, too. “We have the friendliest, most sincere locals anywhere,” says Dexter. “Everyone is involved in making this place better.” Neighborly love translates to hyper-local beers (inquire about the Belgian Pale Ale that features dandelions plucked straight from patrons’ yards), as well as creative collaborations. A recent highlight: a flight of house-made beers paired with chocolates from Baxley’s Handmade Chocolates down the street.
Shop Local: Smoky Made
Mountain folks have a serious pedigree of passed-down workmanship to back up their one-of-a-kind goods.
Edible Souvenirs
Here’s what to bring home from the many food artisans who thrive in these parts.
Sourwood honey: Find this prized tangy variety made from Appalachian trees, along with mead and beeswax soaps and balms, at Wehrloom Honey in Robbinsville.
Trout caviar: Pick up the ultimate high-low Appalachian gift at Sunburst Trout Farms in Waynesville. “It’s way less expensive than regular caviar,” says Angie Guy Leatherwood.
Appalachian pop: At Waynesville Soda Jerks, try flavors like strawberry rhubarb and sorghum cola. “It was started by a young couple working with the fruits of our land,” says Leatherwood.
Preeminent pork: Allan Benton, a hero of modern Southern food, tends to his smoker at Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams in Madisonville. Bacon’s the standout — cured as his grandparents taught him.
Deep Dive: Man of the Woods
Cherokees were among the region’s first makers, and the tribe’s artisans are still revered. “Many draw from the past to make contemporary work,” says host Nonah Millsaps. Her favorite creative preservationist is Joshua Adams, a wood carver who reinterprets traditional crafts, like animal sculptures and masks, with street-art edge. He describes the pull of those ancestral roots.
“It comes natural to Cherokee people to be artists. My dad and grandfather both worked with wood, and my great-aunt and -uncle were early members of Qualla Arts & Crafts, the oldest Native American artist co-op in the U.S., and now I lead a high school wood-carving class. Mask carving is among the more classic arts. The ones you see all over town are mostly of the Seven Clans. But I focus on hunting and Booger masks [used in sacred dances that were like community plays]. Every part of the process is sacred. I teach my class the old-fashioned way before I introduce the students to modern tools and shortcuts. I feel a responsibility to pass these things on.”
Do an arts-and-crafts crawl
The hills hold enough talent to rival Etsy, and though makers are everywhere, two spots have a hefty concentration. In Tennessee, more than 100 working studios around the eight-mile Gatlinburg Arts & Crafts Community belong to weavers, potters, woodworkers, and painters “whose family legacies predate the park,” says Keith Watson. Meanwhile, you’ll find dozens of respected Cherokee artisans at Qualla Arts & Crafts, where every item is tagged with a label that ensures authenticity.
Do Dollywood better
Avoid the crowds: When you enter the park, head left instead of right to go against the natural traffic flow and beat the lines.
Save some dough: “Get a Gold Pass. You only need one for the whole family to score discounts on food.” — C.J.M.
Try to catch Dolly: Best bet: Go during March’s Season Kick-Off event or for the Smoky Mountain Christmas festival in November.
See live entertainment: “The show My Music, My People actually features Parton family members.” — C.J.M.
Finding Dolly
The larger-than-life country star hasn’t forgotten her roots, and her hometown of Sevierville, Tennessee, hasn’t stopped venerating her. Parton tribute artist and history buff C.J. Morgan gives us a tour.
◆ “In front of the courthouse, there’s a life-size statue of a young Dolly. I’ve heard she’s called it one of her two biggest accomplishments.”
◆ “The First Baptist Church on the Parkway was the grocery store where Cas Walker hosted the variety show that launched Dolly’s career.”
◆ “Sit in the back room of Bistro 109. It used to be the bus depot where Dolly caught a bus to Nashville the day after graduation.”
◆ “Dolly says Frank Allen’s Market, a lunch counter inside a Marathon gas station, makes her favorite slaw dawgs.”
Maximize the Family Fun
Embrace Gatlinburg’s kitsch (who doesn’t love a good fudge shop?), then proceed to these spots where locals take their kids.
Spend a Day in Bryson City, NC
Nonah Millsaps shares her favorite place to day-trip with her 5-year-old daughter.
◆ 10 a.m. “The new Appalachian Rivers Aquarium shows the vast diversity of our waterways. Look for hellbenders, the largest salamander in the U.S.”
◆ 12:15 p.m. “After a walk along the river to watch kayakers and anglers, head to High Test Deli & Sweet Shop. I love the Corvair, a chicken Philly with mushrooms and peppers. Stick to one order of fries — it’s enough for three people.”
◆ 2 p.m. “Drive to the 80-acre Darnell Farms. They have live music on weekends and an awesome corn and sunflower maze in the fall.”
◆ 5:30 p.m. “The Warehouse Brewpub, Nantahala Brewing’s two-year-old farm-to-table restaurant, has fire pits and a kids’ menu.”
For Old Times’ Sake
Frozen in Time
Young or old, it’s easy to fall for the charm of Bryson City’s Soda Pops Ice Cream Parlor. The decor is legit vintage (including booths reclaimed from Dollywood), and sweets run the Americana spectrum from cherry soda floats to raspberry pecan shakes.
Totally Free
Animal encounter: “Before every show, Dolly Parton’s Stampede, on the Parkway, opens the stalls for anyone to meet the horses.” — C.J.M.
Pioneer day: Watch blacksmiths, potters, and candymakers at work; scope out an 1800s grist mill; and taste pecan pie, all within a few blocks of Pigeon Forge’s Old Mill.
Nostalgic stop: Introduce kids to the simple pleasures of pre-1980 playtime at Down Memory Lane Toy Museum, filled with retro trains, ride-on cars, and dollhouses.
History lesson: Townsend’s beginnings as a mill town come alive at the Little River Railroad and Lumber Company Museum.
Quirky museum: “Bush’s Best Beans Visitor Center in Chestnut Hill is a hit for its playful exhibits, like a fun-fact scavenger hunt and a scale that shows weight in beans.” — C.J.M.
Campfire tales: “Storytellers dress like our 18th-century ancestors and tell legends around a bonfire by the river at downtown Cherokee’s Oconaluftee Island Park.” — N.M.
Rainy-day plan: “Great Smoky Mountains Railroad has been around forever, but we locals still love it,” says Millsaps. The 4.5-hour ride goes into the gorgeous Nantahala Gorge. Take note: Kids adore the seasonal Polar Express and Peanuts rides.
Tell It on the Mountain
Southerners are known to have a knack for storytelling — especially in the Smokies, where the fog-cloaked peaks breed a certain mystery.
Deep Diver: The Elders’ Lore
Nonah Millsaps sends folks to the Museum of the Cherokee Indian, where ethnographer and storyteller-in-training Mike Crowe is ensuring the Cherokee people — not outsiders — lead the narrative.
“For us, stories are more than entertainment. They’re the basis for our spirituality and tell us how to live dayuktuv, which means ‘the right way.’ Some stories are Aesop fable–esque, while others lay out our culture, like the story of Kanati, the first man and hunter, and the first woman, Sélú, who gave us the gift of corn. These tales are essential in reclaiming and advancing Cherokee heritage. We’re one of the few tribes that live on our ancestral land. We’re surrounded by the same mountains and rivers where our origin stories are set. But there are sacred stories that are only for us. Even as an enrolled member, I have to earn the right to access certain tales. There’s no Cherokee culture without our stories.”
Local Legends
Judaculla Rock
Petroglyphs are carved into a giant boulder in Cullowhee that some believe are the handprint of Judaculla, a Cherokee giant, when he jumped on the rock and tried to steady himself. Most think it’s a map, but not a soul has been able to decipher it yet.
The Little People of Mingo Falls
Among the Cherokee people, waterfalls are thought to be portals. The majestic 200-foot Mingo is where the Yunwi Tsunsdi “little people” — knee-high spirits who both help and play tricks throughout the forest — are said to have entered.
Roaring Fork’s Lucy
Before GSMNP was protected, it was filled with farms, villages, and logging crews. Remnants of its past life — including, many say, old souls — remain. On Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail, some report spotting a barefoot girl named Lucy, who died when her cabin burned down in the 1900s.
Smoky’s Bigfoot
Waynesville’s Boojum Brewing Company named itself for the hairy creature that is rumored to lurk in the woods searching for pretty girls and shiny gems. Meanwhile, his girlfriend, Annie, runs around hooting and hollering for him — and is supposedly to thank for the word “hootenanny.”
Pull Up a Chair: Telling Tales of Old
Check out Folkmoot’s new Southern Storytelling Series in Waynesville, with local raconteurs spinning yarns on history, place, and kin. “It’s set in the auditorium of a supposedly haunted school,” says Angie Guy Leatherwood.
Music Land
In many places around the world, food provides the portal to the innermost workings of the culture. But in the Smokies, you enter through the music. “It’s something we all have in common,” says musician Keith Watson, adding that the area’s European forebears didn’t bring much else aside from their tunes. “Mountain life was tough, and music provided a sense of community.” Just like in olden days, many folks play an instrument, jams follow a hard day’s work, and dancing is still popular at social affairs. String music floats out of distilleries, through the streets, and from neighbors’ front porches all the time. It won’t be long before you’re tapping along.
Beyond Bluegrass
To the uninitiated, all twang is bluegrass, but purists know the genre has strict parameters that cover instrumentation to onstage presentation. These days, folks are more into “newgrass,” a term used to describe the fresh crop of string bands defying the O.G.s’ rules to play stuff that’s just plain fun. For a solid introduction, David Nestler recommends Sylva band Ol’ Dirty Bathtub. “The bluegrass is still there, but so are traces of rock and blues. Their shows get packed.”
Three Smoky Songs to Learn
When these come on, everyone sings along.
“Rocky Top”: The rallying cry for the University of Tennessee’s football team.
“My Tennessee Mountain Home”: Dolly Parton’s hometown ode is a staple on local jukeboxes and stages.
“Barbara Allen”: This Scottish murder ballad — a blood-soaked story as song — is about lovers who died of broken hearts. Parton, Emmylou Harris, and Bob Dylan have all covered it.
Deep Dive: Twangy Roots
“Our ancestors played old-time,” says Keith Watson, whose Gatlinburg lineage dates to the 1790s. Old-time can cover anything played in the nation’s early days, but most link it with Appalachia: settlers’ fiddle tunes and African American banjo that set the stage for modern bluegrass and country sounds. More are reclaiming the original stuff, but Watson and his wife, Ruth, take it further with their band Boogertown Gap, which focuses on Smokies old-time, or, as he describes it, “everything played here before the park was formed.” Like their forefathers, the band relies on fiddles, banjos, spoons, flutes, washboards, and ballad singing. “You can imagine our ancestors walking these same trails, singing these same tunes.”
Seven Nights of Live Music
MONDAY: “Locals like Little River Jammers at Wood-N-Strings Dulcimer Shop in Townsend for its no-fuss, impromptu vibe.” — C.J.M.
TUESDAY: “Ole Smoky Moonshine’s Holler stage has music daily and the biggest acts.” — C.J.M.
WEDNESDAY: “Brackins, in Maryville, is a fun, divey spot with amazing blues nights.” — R.M.
THURSDAY: “Country Tonite is the only variety show in the area that does real country music.” — C.J.M.
FRIDAY: “Banjo legend Raymond Fairchild leads weekend jams at his Maggie Valley Opry House.” — A.G.L.
SATURDAY: “Frog Level Brewing has the best stage, with a deck overlooking the river.” — A.G.L.
SUNDAY: “Anakeesta does live music on weekends and has a spectacular view.” — K.W.
Spotlight: Amythyst Kiah
String music is thought to be a largely white genre, but it wouldn’t exist without its unsung African American roots. Emerging artists like Amythyst Kiah, who sings the railroad ballad “John Henry” on the album Big Bend Killing (the Great Smoky Mountains Association’s ode to old-time), are unearthing those stories and diversifying the category.
“I didn’t see myself reflected in string music until I started unpacking the history. Banjo originated in Africa, and it’s been around long before white people started playing it. There’s also Lesley Riddle, the unnamed member of the Carter Family Band; Arnold Shultz, who influenced the ‘Father of Bluegrass,’ Bill Monroe; and countless others. Bands like the Carolina Chocolate Drops have been showing that old-time and country music is as much a part of our heritage as anyone else’s. Talking about race in this country is difficult, but music has the power to disarm. I want to open people’s minds. ”
Tune In
Pick up the banjo: Maryln Miller will teach anyone who walks into Smoky Mountain Dulcimers in Gatlinburg how to play the banjo in minutes. “The sessions are completely free,” says C.J. Morgan.
Stomp it out: Clogging — North Carolina’s tap-like state folk dance — continues at the 80-year-old Mountain Street Dances in Waynesville. “They cover the road in cornmeal for better traction,” says Angie Guy Leatherwood. If you miss it, don’t fret: “On Saturdays, April through October, there’s also clogging at Maggie Valley’s historic Stompin’ Ground.”
Crash a pickin’ party: At Rocky Mountain Community Club’s Friday jams in Townsend, “old-timers play in a school with rooms designated for gospel, bluegrass, or fiddle. It’s all impromptu,” says Rachel McCroskey. You never know what might unfold: Someone may bring a potluck dinner, or a world-class violinist may even swing by.
Dig in: Mountain Grub
Real Appalachian cooking stems from when hardscrabble folks ate what they grew, canned or froze what was left, and learned fatback goes a long way in providing flavor. Belly up.
Homestyle Eats
Mom-and-pop diners do a mighty fine job re-creating home cooking, and in North Carolina, Paul’s Family Restaurant does it with a Cherokee twist. “I eat there at least twice a week,” says Nonah Millsaps. “Preparations may vary some, but we all learned to eat the same things that grow here,” says Tawania Ensley, daughter of owners Paul and Mary. On Mondays and Fridays, the “Indian Dinner” special comes with fried chicken (the juiciest, crispiest bird you’ll ever taste), ribs, or a pork chop, and sides chosen between pinto beans and hominy, fried potatoes, and mustard greens — all the makings of a classic Southern Appalachian meal, with one big exception. “Cherokees complement with bean bread instead of cornbread,” Tawania says. More dumplinglike than bready, bean bread is a cornmeal-and-pinto patty that gets wrapped in husk, boiled, and served with fatback slices. Getting it right is an art: “It can’t be too mushy and it can’t be too dry,” she says. “And they say you can’t be mad while making it or you’ll mess up the flavor.”
Try the new-old Appalachian kitchen
With few exceptions, eating out in the Tennessee Smokies means you’re hitting up a classic diner or a chain restaurant. But now farmers and chefs are putting Southern Appalachia back on the table, and Maryville’s Walnut Kitchen is leading the way. “They’re showing that it’s possible to focus on local food and thrive,” says young farmer Rachel McCroskey. Though the decor and offerings may be citified (like a stellar dry-aged beef program, which comes from regional farms), guests recognize the makings of their childhood kitchens. “A lot of the menu is based on memories,” says executive chef Alex Gass. “I made a pawpaw bread, a spin on banana bread, inspired by our butcher’s stories of growing up picking pawpaws with his grandfather.” Pawpaw, a native fruit that looks and tastes tropical, is one of many unique ingredients that stem from this biodiverse foodshed. Foraged, canned, heirloom, and cured edibles also appear on the menu, showcasing the full range of Appalachian cooking.
Deep dive: Pass the ’Shine
Moonshine may be the Smokies’ most prized commodity, and Dave Angel of Elevated Mountain Distilling Co. in Maggie Valley makes some of the best. “He learned from real moonshiners, and his stuff isn’t all sugary and commercial like a lot of the others,” says Angie Guy Leatherwood.
Q: What is moonshine?
A: “By definition it’s any spirit made illegally. When people say moonshine now, they tend to mean a corn-based spirit that’s un-aged and high-proof.”
Q: Why’s it such a big deal around here?
A: “The Scotch Irish settlers made whiskey. During Prohibition, Al Capone controlled 700 stills between here and Knoxville. A lot of places claim to be the moonshine capital of the world, but most of the legendary folks, like Popcorn Sutton, have this area in common.”
Q: Who’s Popcorn Sutton?
A: “The most famous moonshiner, probably anywhere. Right until he died, in 2009, he’d sell from the parking lots of Maggie Valley diners after hours. He didn’t necessarily have a reputation for being the nicest guy, but he had a soft side — when he heard I was making whiskey, he made me the copper still in the back.”
Q: What distinguishes your moonshine from the other local ones?
A: “We don’t use sugar, and it’s real whiskey. A lot of the distilleries around here make grain-neutral spirits, which are closer to flavored vodkas. But we want to keep pushing the craft forward. I’m trying to make whiskey from a heritage corn that used to be grown right in the Cataloochee Valley.”
GIY (Gather It Yourself)
Foraging, the ancient practice of scouring the woods for provisions, may now be a culinary buzzword, but it never went out of style in the Smokies, where ramps and morel mushrooms are eagerly hunted every spring. “Even people who don’t forage go ramping,” says Angie Guy Leatherwood. There’s plenty to pick year-round, too (ginseng in summer; berries in summer and fall), so long as it’s outside of national park boundaries. Appalachian Geographic tours can school you on what’s edible and harvesting etiquette.
Touristy Musts
Cades Cove
Take the Sugarlands park entrance to access the 11-mile drivable (and bikeable) loop, a go-to for a reason: It’s simply breathtaking, with 1800s-era log buildings, valley views, and an amalgam of wildlife that congregates around its golden fields. “Bring water and snacks; you might be in the car longer than you think,” says Keith Watson.
Skybridge
This new addition to downtown Gatlinburg is the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in America. It comes with a hefty fee ($20 for adults), but the scenery and thrills — C.J. Morgan says the glass walkway in the middle, at about 140 feet, can shake even the toughest bird — are unmatched.
Clingmans Dome
Close to Newfound Gap (an overlook at the Tennessee–North Carolina border), the highest peak on the Appalachian Trail has a dramatic, space-age observation tower. “It’s busy,” says Watson. “But the vistas are hard to beat.” It’s also worth taking the two-mile hike to Andrews Bald, a grassy patch abloom with wildflowers in the spring.
Calendar
Annual events worth planning around:
June to August: Gatlinburg’s Smoky Mountain Tunes & Tales. Musicians and storytellers walk the Parkway providing free entertainment all day. Keep an eye out for Boogertown Gap; Watson and his wife always perform.
July 4th: Bryson City’s Freedom Fest. As all-American as it gets, with a watermelon-eating contest, anthem sing-along, and a fireworks display over the river.
End of September: Mountain Heritage Day. Carolinians turn out in droves for this culture-keeping event, in which everything from Cherokee stickball to old-school sorghum molasses–making is on tap.
November to February: Smoky Mountain Winterfest Celebration. Pigeon Forge (and Dollywood!) sparkle with more than five million lights.
Compass
Navigate the mountains like a pro.
Get a county map at the Sevierville courthouse to find back roads to take when the Parkway gets jammed up.
“There’s almost no parking in downtown Gatlinburg. Use the trolley. It’s $2 for an all-day pass,” says Morgan.
“Most people come in October for the fall color, but the leaves really peak in November, and the crowds are a little smaller,” says McCroskey.
“For the best scenic drive, hop on the Foothills Parkway. The last 1.5 miles were recently completed (after 52 years!) with a bridge that’s not for the faint of heart, but gorgeous,” says McCroskey.
“Unless you really love cars, don’t come to the Tennessee side of the Smokies during the Rod Runs in spring and fall. You’ll be in bumper-to-bumper traffic for hours,” warns Morgan.
Temps vary drastically as you ascend in elevation. Even on blistering hot days, high-elevation hikes may be surprisingly cool. By the same token, it’s worth always having a sweater and raincoat on hand.
Where to see.
Black bears: “Other places have them, but to us, black bears represent the Smokies,” says Rachel McCroskey. Go to Appalachian Bear Rescue in Townsend for naturalist-led hikes to inactive dens. In the wild, you’re mostly likely to see them around Cades Cove, but always stay at least 50 yards away, for your safety and theirs.
Elk: “You can find elk year-round in Cataloochee — the less-visited section of the park, where the beasts were reintroduced in 2001. But it’s most spectacular in the fall when you hear the hypnotic bugle sound they make during the rut, their mating season.”
Lingo
Southernisms and Appalachian jargon combine to create an unmistakable dialect.
First of all: It’s Appa-LATCH-uh, not Appa-LAY-shuh.
And another thing: It’s common form to put an “a” in front of verbs and drop the “g” at the end, as in: a-goin’, a-gettin’, a-fixin’.
Fixin’: Getting ready to, like “fixin’ to go to the store.”
Reckon: To suppose or think. “You reckon we can pick up some moonshine later?”
Vittles: Nostalgic way of saying food. Comes from “victuals.”
Hey-nit: A spin-off of “ain’t it,” which comes from “isn’t it.”
Supper: Often used instead of dinner. Oh, and dinner can also mean lunch.
Holler: Better known as hollows elsewhere, it’s a valley with rural communities. You might hear: “He lives in the holler just past the country store.”
Booger: Monster. Haint is a ghost.
Y’all: Always used instead of “you all,” except when it’s “yuns” and means “you people.”
Poke: A sack. “A pig in a poke” is a con, as in a peddler selling a cat instead of a pig in a bag.
Can’t string a hog up on a saplin’: You’re trying to achieve the impossible, like hanging a pig on a skinny tree.
Fine as a frog hair split three ways: An appropriate response to “How ya doin’?”
About the author: Stephanie Granada is a Colombian-American freelance writer, who splits her time between Florida and Colorado. She’s into books, her dog, all things ocean-related, and small towns. You can also find her work in Sunset, Woman’s Day, National Geographic Traveler, and Southern Living.
