Winter Secrets of the Happiest Nation on the Planet
Saunas and cinnamon buns — here’s how Helsinki locals stay chipper during the coldest season of the year.
Photographs by Ben Clement
The winter is long in Finland’s snowy capital, but Helsinki locals manage to stay sunny all year. What’s their secret? We spoke to a few of the cheeriest people on the planet (in 2019, Finland topped the United Nations’ World Happiness Report) to find out how they make the most of the coldest, darkest days of the year. Their suggestions may inspire you to book a January escape to Helsinki — or to seek out some Finnish-style fun in your own hometown.
Get Your Sweat On
Finland has a population of 5.5 million, and it’s estimated that there are more than 2.3 million saunas. “I have yet to meet a Finn who doesn’t go to the sauna,” says wellness and travel writer Katja Pantzar, author of The Finnish Way. “It’s a social activity that’s often part of a night out.”
Löyly, not far from central Helsinki, “is designed to resemble a boulder perched on the sea to give you the feeling of being at a remote cottage in the archipelago,” says Pantzar. “There’s a modern-design sauna and a traditional smoke sauna, and it also has a wooden terrace with a ladder that leads down to a refreshing dip in the sea. The colder the water, the stronger the post-swim euphoria!”
Also check out: Allas Sea Pool, Kotiharjun, and Sauna Arla
Eat Cinnamon Buns
The country’s traditional pastry is Korvapuusti (translation: “slap in the ear,” though no one’s quite sure how it acquired the name). Finns even celebrate National Cinnamon Bun Day on October 4. It’s distinguished by cardamom-spiced yeast dough and pearl sugar on top. “We’ve all grown up eating Mum’s or Granny’s heavenly soft cinnamon buns,” says Airbnb host Yulia Hiltunen, who leads a Finnish cooking experience.
“Cafe Regatta in Töölö is probably in every Helsinki guidebook, but they have damn delicious korvapuusti and seaside views,” says Hiltunen. “It’s all about the atmosphere — buns are served adjacent to their toasty fire pit.”
Also check out: Café Succès, Patisserie Teemu & Markus, and the cafeteria at Kivelän Sairaala Helsinki Hospital (yes, really)
Snag Design Ideas
Finland is known for innovative home decor that blends utility with sleek minimalism. Suvi Saloniemi is chief curator of Design Museum Helsinki, in the city’s 25-block design district.
“Legendary and influential Finnish designer and architect Alvar Aalto became world famous for his three-legged stool and Savoy vase,” says Saloniemi. “The Aalto House, his Munkkiniemi home, and Studio Aalto, his workspace located a short walk away, give you a comprehensive idea of his practice and his life.”
Also check out: Iittala & Arabia Design Centre, Marimekko Outlet, and Samuji’s flagship store
“I love Helsinki people for being so different and unique. I feel that people dare to be themselves here, and I love it.”
— Yulia Hiltunen, Airbnb Experience host
Be One with Nature
Helsinki boasts seven national parks within a two-hour drive, as well as a bevy of urban green spaces. Finland’s reverence for the wild is clear in “everyman’s right,” a legal concept stating that anyone can forage for herbs, berries, and mushrooms (aside from protected species) in any forest. “That’s why Helsinki’s nickname is the ‘Nature Capital of the World,’” says Tom Selänniemi, director of the Nature Center of Haltia.
“Sipoonkorpi National Park, 40 minutes from Helsinki, is a great place to hike, fat bike, ski, or birdwatch,” Selänniemi says.
Also check out: Central Park, Suomenlinna, and Vanhankaupunginlahti
About the author: Danielle Braff writes about travel, parenting, and business. She lives with her two daughters, husband, dog, and two cats in Chicago. When she’s not glued to her computer, you could find her reading, traveling, or trying to convince her husband to adopt another dog.
